Just a Note About New Lifters

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Corrosion of bare steel is usually due to condensation. I would get that in my garage in Atlanta. No problem in my garage in drier California now, but I still get condensation outside under a carport in winter, even dripping from metal rafters. It is due to the temperature changes, which are much less inside. Of course everything is worse with salt. A relative's beachfront house in Florida is already showing a little rust on stainless fasteners outside after just a year, and painted steel parts are horribly corroded.
 
BillGrissom said:
Corrosion of bare steel is usually due to condensation. I would get that in my garage in Atlanta. No problem in my garage in drier California now, but I still get condensation outside under a carport in winter, even dripping from metal rafters. It is due to the temperature changes, which are much less inside. Of course everything is worse with salt. A relative's beachfront house in Florida is already showing a little rust on stainless fasteners outside after just a year, and painted steel parts are horribly corroded.
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I've seen condensation on unfinished buildings to the point it looked like rainfall. If the metal is galvanized, it will ruin an automobile paint job.
 
My old house had no roof ventilation. You could see the moisture running out from under the metal roof. Got rid of that house right quickly.
 
Bodyperson said:
Pulled my new Hylift Johnson "made in USA" lifters apart yesterday. 3 of them had some corrosion. One was a lot worse than the other 2. Cleaned the oil off and soaked the bores in Evaporust overnight. They cleaned up pretty well. I was surprised to see them full of oil. Just the right amount, I guess.
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I need to understand something, please. What, may I ask, possessed you to disassemble brand new lifters to look inside to see if they were rusted? Is it known in the automotive world that this particular company fabricates sub standard parts? If this is the case, why would you buy them in the first place? Maybe I am missing something here.

Would you also buy a brand new carburetor for example and totally disassemble it just to see that all the internal parts are inside and in good shape?
 
Yep, not a bad idea. Should be done with heads as well.
Vinny said:
I need to understand something, please. What, may I ask, possessed you to disassemble brand new lifters to look inside to see if they were rusted? Is it known in the automotive world that this particular company fabricates sub standard parts? If this is the case, why would you buy them in the first place? Maybe I am missing something here.

Would you also buy a brand new carburetor for example and totally disassemble it just to see that all the internal parts are inside and in good shape?
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What suggestions do you have for lifters?
If they fail will you refund my $$?
Yes these are serious questions, about as serious as yours.
Absolutely no reason to NOT disassemble brand new carb/heads/lifters?
Are you serious with your questions?
Vinny said:
I need to understand something, please. What, may I ask, possessed you to disassemble brand new lifters to look inside to see if they were rusted? Is it known in the automotive world that this particular company fabricates sub standard parts? If this is the case, why would you buy them in the first place? Maybe I am missing something here.

Would you also buy a brand new carburetor for example and totally disassemble it just to see that all the internal parts are inside and in good shape?
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4spdragtop said:
What suggestions do you have for lifters?
If they fail will you refund my $$?
Yes these are serious questions, about as serious as yours.
Absolutely no reason to NOT disassemble brand new carb/heads/lifters?
Are you serious with your questions?
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Yes, I was serious. But, with the horror stories of cams wiping out upon break-in, doing a thorough investigation of the valve train is a great idea.....however, it's not the first thing that would have crossed my mind. Thanks for all the information. Don't take anything for granted is the moral of the story here.
 
Vinny said:
I need to understand something, please. What, may I ask, possessed you to disassemble brand new lifters to look inside to see if they were rusted? Is it known in the automotive world that this particular company fabricates sub standard parts? If this is the case, why would you buy them in the first place? Maybe I am missing something here.

Would you also buy a brand new carburetor for example and totally disassemble it just to see that all the internal parts are inside and in good shape?
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Because, parts these days suck. And something like a cheap set of lifters can ruin your day big time
 
George Jets said:
With all the trouble mating up new lifters to new cams, have been wondering about setting up a bare short block and heads just to break in the cams?

Could find a way to pressurize the oiling system, run the cam with an electric motor to spin it. Run it without pistons so no pressure on the valve train, cam and lifters from the pressure of combustion.

Use very light valve springs on the valves to reduce strain on cam lobes.

Just easy pressure on the lifters and cam to polish the mating surfaces together, using plenty of oil pressure from an alternate source to keep things flushed clean and lubricated well.

Then when broke in well with no problems, then install the new cam and lifters in order into your new engine build.

And not having to worry about breaking in a cam, on first startup on a fresh tight engine.

View attachment 1716309635

Just thinking....


☆☆☆☆☆
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Problem is the lifter bore machining is all over the place. You would be creating a wear pattern for one block then switching to a different one.

Using your idea to run in the specific block that the cam and lifters will wind up in would be better.
 
mopfried said:
Would that make the bore too large? Moat lifters are not .904" in diameter are they?
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The lifters are .903, the lifter bores are .904, but everyone calls the lifters .904. I don't.
 
mopfried said:
Would that make the bore too large? Moat lifters are not .904" in diameter are they?
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I agree. I think .906 is a bit large. Evidently Goodson does not.
 
Out of curiosity, I opened up the FSM. I never knew they ever made oversized "service tappets."

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mopfried said:
Would that make the bore too large? Moat lifters are not .904" in diameter are they?
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RustyRatRod said:
I agree. I think .906 is a bit large. Evidently Goodson does not.
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I had several lifters that did not rotate. After using the burnishing ball they all rotated. Had a successful break-in with no lifter related problems since.

Like I said above, your decision.
 
Hughes has a very good couple of pages about installing your cam and lifters and spinning the cam with a speed wrench. He uses maybe oil on the sides and cam lube on the bottoms, mark each lifter and turn away, they all must turn or else. Really a good read, always thought it was overkill but I never have had a flat lobe.
 
Uncle Bob said:
I had several lifters that did not rotate. After using the burnishing ball they all rotated. Had a successful break-in with no lifter related problems since.

Like I said above, your decision.
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I've always thought highly of Goodson. I'll call them. It may be a viable alternative.
 
I know nothing on the subject but would of thought heat from the breakin process would be a factor.
 
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