Just as slow as before my mods..

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I said that because you had it listed for 33,700 on autotrader. I don’t what it’s worth.

you’re now focusing on the wrong thing. Fix it and you could get 40-45
Brother, when i say I need to pay the rent, I literally need to pay the rent. We haven't had income in weeks. Business is dead. I see what you meant, now. Price is even lower, now.
 
Brother, when i say I need to pay the rent, I literally need to pay the rent. We haven't had income in weeks. Business is dead. I see what you meant, now. Price is even lower, now.
Well that’s terrible man. Not great to be in that spot. I hope your luck changes soon
 
Well that’s terrible man. Not great to be in that spot. I hope your luck changes soon
Any help spreading the word out about the sale would be greatly appreciated. Maybe with luck I can into another one or buy this one back, lol. I like Dusters too. But gotta pay bills first, or else out on the street we go.
 
Man, that SUCKS, and PS, they SCREWED US ALL, some people are just too stupid to realize it yet! I run a small business myself, and I'm actually thinking about going to work for someone else. I've still got all my tools and equipment ( a lifetime of knowledge and experience) But I may have to, just to make it, after losing my home, because I Could Not work. It's actually still bugging me man, I'm dealing with a bunch of BS on that end now ( I'm not liking none of it, takes me to Anger and depression) I've actually gotten better after dealing with my bout of double pneumonia and almost dying (funny, the 2xP popped in Direcrly after having covid) So basically I can relate to what you're saying. There are guys here (several core members that will bend over backwards to help you) diagnose anything they can over this damn phone or computer. And a lot, and I Mean, a LOT of good people on here man, and they're highly knowledgeable and skilled. All they need to see is a little effort on your part( looks like you're trying right now that's a good thing) Id go out and get a socket set,and some wrenches though, Doggone it! It sucks that shop ripped you off, but by getting more mentally and Hands-On intimate with your Mopar you'll find y'all have a much better relationship, my Brother! I mean you and the car not the guys here, lol. But the more tips they give you,and when you start with these Basics, the further they'll go out of their way to help you dig to the bottom of this. I had a 71 demon slant 6 back in the early '90s man I should have never got rid of that car along with a bunch of other ones I had, including my Coronet but I don't even want to get into all that. It may not be a hobby for you now but it could become one you don't need to have $150,000 worth of crap to work on a car you just got to have a little Drive
I missed the part where you lost you home? That's terrible. The depression is terrible too. I get that too. Try not to drink, makes it worse. Don't give up, times will change, needs to be much sooner.
 
hey man, respectfully, and really i do mean this in all honesty, but 32K is not exactly "my rent is due" fire sale kind of price.

we all know how easy it is to spend that money going in and how difficult it can be to get it back on the right side of the ledger when you're headed out the door.

if you're in dire straights, you might want to focus on what you need to get and not necessarily what you want to get money wise. taking the time to reconsider something more along the lines of what would be satisfactory might help in that decision.

also, the ad copy is fairly light on specifics. things like what kind of axles are in that dana 60, what brand of brakes are on the car, how old are the tires, things of that nature. car guys live for the numbers and the granular details, punching those in there shows familiarity with the car, knowledge of the parts and lets interested parties pore over the bits. it can also eliminate a ton of inane, repetitive questions.

it's a beautiful car with tons of potential. best of luck with the sale.
 
hey man, respectfully, and really i do mean this in all honesty, but 32K is not exactly "my rent is due" fire sale kind of price.

we all know how easy it is to spend that money going in and how difficult it can be to get it back on the right side of the ledger when you're headed out the door.

if you're in dire straights, you might want to focus on what you need to get and not necessarily what you want to get money wise. taking the time to reconsider something more along the lines of what would be satisfactory might help in that decision.

also, the ad copy is fairly light on specifics. things like what kind of axles are in that dana 60, what brand of brakes are on the car, how old are the tires, things of that nature. car guys live for the numbers and the granular details, punching those in there shows familiarity with the car, knowledge of the parts and lets interested parties pore over the bits. it can also eliminate a ton of inane, repetitive questions.

it's a beautiful car with tons of potential. best of luck with the sale.
Have you seen Demons of this caliber SOLD for as or less than this price anywhere? I've done comparative sales. I'm far below what it's worth. Besides, its asking price. I didn't say, FIRM.
Don't have anymore details on the Dana. Has plenty already. One only has to google the part, and there it is.
Don't know brand of brakes. Pics say a thousand words.
There's tons and tons of pics and conversation on this site, and detailed sale list. This page only allows 10 pics.

Make an offer, brother. :eek:
 
Have you seen Demons of this caliber SOLD for as or less than this price anywhere? I've done comparative sales. I'm far below what it's worth. Besides, its asking price. I didn't say, FIRM.
Don't have anymore details on the Dana. Has plenty already. One only has to google the part, and there it is.
Don't know brand of brakes. Pics say a thousand words.
There's tons and tons of pics and conversation on this site, and detailed sale list. This page only allows 10 pics.
yes major auction house last fall mint matching numbers 340 demon bahama yellow barley got 32k
as is if you get 25k your doing good
the 24k spent should have been 10 to 12k and it was done wrong
beautifull car 32k only a dummy pays that
 
Have you seen Demons of this caliber SOLD for as or less than this price anywhere? I've done comparative sales. I'm far below what it's worth. Besides, its asking price. I didn't say, FIRM.
Don't have anymore details on the Dana. Has plenty already. One only has to google the part, and there it is.
Don't know brand of brakes. Pics say a thousand words.
There's tons and tons of pics and conversation on this site, and detailed sale list. This page only allows 10 pics.

Make an offer, brother. :eek:
okay buddy. good luck with the sale.
 
Update: found a guy that came over, was recommended by a known shop in other city. Fixed the fuel leak and found that the float was positioned wrong, which fixed the fuel gauge.

He recommended leaving the fuel regulator where its at, since it was a set ot and forget it regulator and didnt want to drill holes in the engine bay paint. Hoses were better set at the rear to prevent damage.

As for power loss. He adjusted the distributor moving the vacumm advance almost 90 degrees back (like one of you guys smartly mentioned, and mentioned that that particular carburetor works fine.

In park, the engine was strong and showed good power band. But in drive, it bogs when pedal slammed and slow. He thinks it may be the A518 tranny and/or torque convertor. So, i took it to a parking lot, pressed brakes and rpms would stall at 2000 rpm and let off brakes, took of like a bat out of hell missing boths wings crawling up the street. Slow. I dont know the stall on that convertor.

He doesnt work on trannys, so.
 
When you advance the distributor on a small block it puts the canister closer to the intake manifold, counterclockwise
One thing that jumps out at me from the pictures of your engine, Steve, is how really close the vacuum advance on the distributor is to the intake manifold. I have to wonder if it has all the initial advance it needs. Have you ever checked the initial timing? If you don't have a timing light, I'd suggest getting one. Even a nice digital dial back light is pretty reasonable these days.
 
needs more acelerator pump
its not the trans him saying that means he is no expert
 
Update: found a guy that came over, was recommended by a known shop in other city. Fixed the fuel leak and found that the float was positioned wrong, which fixed the fuel gauge.

He recommended leaving the fuel regulator where its at, since it was a set ot and forget it regulator and didnt want to drill holes in the engine bay paint. Hoses were better set at the rear to prevent damage.

As for power loss. He adjusted the distributor moving the vacumm advance almost 90 degrees back (like one of you guys smartly mentioned, and mentioned that that particular carburetor works fine.

In park, the engine was strong and showed good power band. But in drive, it bogs when pedal slammed and slow. He thinks it may be the A518 tranny and/or torque convertor. So, i took it to a parking lot, pressed brakes and rpms would stall at 2000 rpm and let off brakes, took of like a bat out of hell missing boths wings crawling up the street. Slow. I dont know the stall on that convertor.

He doesnt work on trannys, so.
You need to know what the timing was set at initially, in park at idle. Should be near 20-24 degrees and advance to 33 or so. Cranking compression test is requires to know how much you can push it.
Might play with the pump arm, check step up springs.. but lets seethe plugs while its cranking compression test is done.
 
When you advance the distributor on a small block it puts the canister closer to the intake manifold, counterclockwise
Right. That's what I was saying. He ain't got much more room if it needs more timing.
 
You need to know what the timing was set at initially, in park at idle. Should be near 20-24 degrees and advance to 33 or so. Cranking compression test is requires to know how much you can push it.
Might play with the pump arm, check step up springs.. but lets seethe plugs while its cranking compression test is done.
You need to know what the timing was set at initially, in park at idle. Should be near 20-24 degrees and advance to 33 or so. Cranking compression test is requires to know how much you can push it.
Might play with the pump arm, check step up springs.. but lets seethe plugs while its cranking compression test is done.
16 maybe its a stock 318 with rv cam wont even start@22
he doesnt have a @50 cam260
mine bucks the starter @18 9.99 to 1 169 cranking comp on 93
22
 
Another thing, this AVS2 carburetor has no mechanical linkage to secondaries.

I was wrong about how much the advance was turned, see image.

Drove it on freeway, OD and 3rd gear still keeps gearing up and down.

20230504_124951.jpg
 
post# 141 sure looks like one
i dont see a stock kickdown on it
simple enough to look under the car see what you have hooked up
 
post# 141 sure looks like one
i dont see a stock kickdown on it
simple enough to look under the car see what you have hooked up

I dont have a lokar cable, unless that's what's on it now. It was recommended here that I get one.

You do have a Lokar Kickdown cable. What was suggested was the correct Edelbrock throttle arm bracket as well as the Lokar cable bracket. Just makes things simpler.

Did your guy address the throttle opening?
 
You do have a Lokar Kickdown cable. What was suggested was the correct Edelbrock throttle arm bracket as well as the Lokar cable bracket. Just makes things simpler.

Did your guy address the throttle opening?
Let me see if i get right what he said. The reason the secondary doesn't open with pedal to floor, is it doesnt open on with AVS2 carb until driving. I think its what he said.
 
Let me see if i get right what he said. The reason the secondary doesn't open with pedal to floor, is it doesnt open on with AVS2 carb until driving. I think its what he said.
Steve this site has more experts then needed
get your help here
do what others ask you to do show
get involved
its about and hr to fix you car
 
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