Just as slow as before my mods..

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IT ALSO COULD BE AS simple as cam timing.

Since you "paid a shop" to build this engine, they should be able to supply EXACTLY what cam was installed and HOW IT WAS DEGREED
 
IT ALSO COULD BE AS simple as cam timing.

Since you "paid a shop" to build this engine, they should be able to supply EXACTLY what cam was installed and HOW IT WAS DEGREED
Op mentioned that the shop went out of business unfortunately
 
Could you please post a picture of the carburetor from the drivers side, the part under the air cleaner showing the throttle cable and or any linkage etc.
this may be as simple as just not getting proper throttle actuation (full throttle)

I looked a pictures of the car as it was when you bought it and the throttle cable bracket and throttle cable didn’t look proper.
 
Could you please post a picture of the carburetor from the drivers side, the part under the air cleaner showing the throttle cable and or any linkage etc.
this may be as simple as just not getting proper throttle actuation (full throttle)

I looked a pictures of the car as it was when you bought it and the throttle cable bracket and throttle cable didn’t look proper.
First Dart I bought had exactly that problem. Was a 318 that the seller had put a set of J heads on, along with a factory cast iron intake and TQ, but had no throttle cable brackets, and no kick down linkage. The end of the throttle cable was cut off and wrapped around the arm of the carburetor. Putting the pedal to the floor gave it about 30% throttle, and it was in third gear by 25 mph. (904 automatic)
Once I got the proper cable, linkages and brackets, world of difference, even with the stock 7.25 differential, until it grenaded anyway.
 
First Dart I bought had exactly that problem. Was a 318 that the seller had put a set of J heads on, along with a factory cast iron intake and TQ, but had no throttle cable brackets, and no kick down linkage. The end of the throttle cable was cut off and wrapped around the arm of the carburetor. Putting the pedal to the floor gave it about 30% throttle, and it was in third gear by 25 mph. (904 automatic)
Once I got the proper cable, linkages and brackets, world of difference, even with the stock 7.25 differential, until it grenaded anyway.
Yes. Which is exactly what I think may be going on here. None of the kick down and throttle cable bracket is for a 4 barrel. The car a originally a 6 cyl converted…
‘attached is a pic of the OP’s car as he bought it.

IMG_4250.jpeg
 
Sorry to read.... boy, BPE(blue print engines) has been around for years with a good rep and a vendor on here. You've been a member here for 3 years and never asked for input? Before dropping $20+K, I sure as **** would've asked questions all over the damn internet.
Something sounds fishy....besides the build bill...
 
Yes. Which is exactly what I think may be going on here. None of the kick down and throttle cable bracket is for a 4 barrel. The car a originally a 6 cyl converted…
‘attached is a pic of the OP’s car as he bought
Yes. Which is exactly what I think may be going on here. None of the kick down and throttle cable bracket is for a 4 barrel. The car a originally a 6 cyl converted…
‘attached is a pic of the OP’s car as he bought it.

View attachment 1716083837
Ok here's the new carb pics. Also something important i mentioned but forgot where here. The new tank leaks from top when running. At first i thought from theseal, but when i went to turn the key to alt only today, the fuel pump whizzed on and lots of fuel drained out the back while not running. So, while it runs it also leaks which could also be starving the carb?

20230429_155653.jpg


20230429_155825.jpg


20230429_155859_001.jpg
 
Sorry to read.... boy, BPE(blue print engines) has been around for years with a good rep and a vendor on here. You've been a member here for 3 years and never asked for input? Before dropping $20+K, I sure as **** would've asked questions all over the damn internet.
Something sounds fishy....besides the build bill...
I asked several questions in the past here and posted images too. Got many differing opinions. Been to BPE website too.
 
Got to be some old school car guys around you. Heck go to a car show and look around.
Just a competent old school guy who can help you cover the basics.
Things like retarded timing and carb not opening all the way can kill performance.
A budget head swap down the road might be a set of magnum heads with a good valve job and resurface.
In the mean time if you can afford it just park it in the garage and cool off for a bit. Hard to make good decisions when you are upset.
Love the car and hope you get it sorted out.
Would love to have that rear end in my duster.
 

looks funny in there for sure, especially where the throttle cable gets held into the bracket. Looks like some sort of Lokar setup for a GM. Not sure.

can you have someone sit in the car and hold the gas pedal to the floor, once only so you don’t flood things - so be prepared before you have someone do this on your command, AND you can look directly down the carburetor while holding the choke flap open (the flap on top of the carb closest to the front of the car with one finger and take a picture? Trying to ascertain if the butterflies are opening fully. At the same time open the back flap (it’s called the air valve) and look down there and also take a picture and post back your findings.
 
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It’s important to be holding the choke flap open BEFORE and during the person in the car holds the gas pedal to the floor.

the butterflies deep in the carb at the base are like small circles about and 1.25" in diameter. There are two under the choke flap portion and also 2 under the air valve

IMG_4251.jpeg
 
These are the butterflies, they are closed now. As the gas pedal is pushed and the open they will move to a more vertical position

FullSizeRender.jpeg
 
Doesn't have the proper Mopar Edelbrock bracket, for proper throttle linkage geometry.

Could be it's not opening the butterflies full swing.

Simple 1st step.

Then if the kickdown cable is not adjusted correctly, upshifts into drive way too soon dogging it down.

2 simple things that need to work hand in hand to get some performance out of it.

20230429_155825.jpg


Screenshot_20230429-195738_Gallery.jpg


Screenshot_20230429-195418_Gallery.jpg


☆☆☆☆☆
 
If you need money, you have a bunch sitting under the rear of the car. A Dana 60 is gold.
Go online and see if there are any Mopar car clubs local to you. Great source of info and help.
Building a good engine combo is like making a good cake. You can have great ingredients but if the recipe is wrong it will taste like s**t.
 
These are the butterflies, they are closed now. As the gas pedal is pushed and the open they will move to a more vertical position

View attachment 1716084038
Brother, those are some very good drawings. I'm actually not totally ignorant to mechanics. I just haven't messed with cars in many years. But I will see if I can set up a camera and do it myself tmrw, or find a neighbor. Thanks for your help. BTW, the most pressing thing at the moment, is the top of the new tank squirts gas onto the ground without the car running and fuel pump running. Leaks also when running also. Waiting for a buddy with jack and stands to take a better look next week.
 
Brother, those are some very good drawings. I'm actually not totally ignorant to mechanics. I just haven't messed with cars in many years. But I will see if I can set up a camera and do it myself tmrw, or find a neighbor. Thanks for your help. BTW, the most pressing thing at the moment, is the top of the new tank squirts gas onto the ground without the car running and fuel pump running. Leaks also when running also. Waiting for a buddy with jack and stands to take a better look next week.
All you need is a brick
 
Brother, those are some very good drawings. I'm actually not totally ignorant to mechanics. I just haven't messed with cars in many years. But I will see if I can set up a camera and do it myself tmrw, or find a neighbor. Thanks for your help. BTW, the most pressing thing at the moment, is the top of the new tank squirts gas onto the ground without the car running and fuel pump running. Leaks also when running also. Waiting for a buddy with jack and stands to take a better look next week.
Fuel leak could be as simple as a cracked fuel hose, or loose clamp.
 
Wasn’t trying to say you were ignorant to mechanics, but just trying to be clear and make sure hence the comprehensive instruction assuming you had no knowledge. Seeing as we now know you’re more versed than some, all I’m asking you to do is see if you have full throttle. You can take a picture with one hand in your phone while checking and shouldn’t have to set up a camera.
your tank leaking shouldn‘t affect testing this now. especially seeing as you thread post was this thing has no power, not this thing leaks gas. i use a snow brush for car to wedge in between the swat and the pedal, as you’re in Austin you most certainly won’t have one of those. Find a stick or maybe a toilet plunger Handle et, that may work
 
Fuel leak could be as simple as a cracked fuel hose, or loose clamp.

Could be the lock ring not holding tight at the fuel sending unit going into the tank.

If they put a new sending unit in it, it is recommended to use the original lock ring with the new gasket. The aftermarket new lock rings don't fit right and they leak.

Chineseium ...

☆☆☆☆☆
 
Wasn’t trying to say you were ignorant to mechanics, but just trying to be clear and make sure hence the comprehensive instruction assuming you had no knowledge. Seeing as we now know you’re more versed than some, all I’m asking you to do is see if you have full throttle. You can take a picture with one hand in your phone while checking and shouldn’t have to set up a camera.
your tank leaking shouldn‘t affect testing this now. especially seeing as you thread post was this thing has no power, not this thing leaks gas. i use a snow brush for car to wedge in between the swat and the pedal, as you’re in Austin you most certainly won’t have one of those. Find a stick or maybe a toilet plunger Handle et, that may work
Hey, dont get me wrong, I need all the help i can get. And my memory is **** after the years. The last time i messed with a carb was in 1994 when I had a 71 Camaro. Like learning to ride a bike all over again. I will try it tomorrow after I watch Matlock. Hahaha im only in my 50s.
 
Could be the lock ring not holding tight at the fuel sending unit going into the tank.

If they put a new sending unit in it, it is recommended to use the original lock ring with the new gasket. The aftermarket new lock rings don't fit right and they leak.

Chineseium ...

☆☆☆☆☆
Yup, it could also be the pick up tube is cracked, I had that happen once.
 
Could be the lock ring not holding tight at the fuel sending unit going into the tank.

If they put a new sending unit in it, it is recommended to use the original lock ring with the new gasket. The aftermarket new lock rings don't fit right and they leak.

Chineseium ...

☆☆☆☆☆
The tank is new and sending unit are new. The first shop installed it and the fuel gauge didn't work, so i went with another shop and the fuel gauge still doesnt work and leaks too.
 
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