Just as slow as before my mods..

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I would use it as a cruiser for the time being and tinker with it when time alows, as I understand that it is drivable? Except for the fuel leakage that got to be addressed. Too nice of a car to sell, I would regret it for sure.
Swedefish
 
Steve Mcbean said:
The tank is new and sending unit are new. The first shop installed it and the fuel gauge didn't work, so i went with another shop and the fuel gauge still doesnt work and leaks too.
Click to expand...

This right here ^^^ tells you the gas leak is at the lock ring and gasket for the fuel sending unit.

You have to rebend the sending unit float arm so when you have 1/2 tank of gas, your gauge reads 1/2 tank. Not 3/4 or full.

Can do the work with the tank in the car.

0806171541b.jpg


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Kern Dog said:
You know little about cars, don't want to learn and keep paying others

Sell it for whatever you can get and find a cheaper hobby.
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Corrected based on latest info.
Sadly I agree. Some guys luck out and find a good mechanic, but this isn't happening, and probably won't. Truth is, its usually more than just luck.

This isn't difficult stuff, but you have to be willing to do it. It also means investing in some tools - the basic ones will cost less paying someone to do it. Ramps or stack of 2 x 10s, wheel chocks, a flashlight, will let you see the leak. A brass or aluminum bar will be needed when removing the ring. Draining the tank down below the sender is really the biggest PIA.

For basic tuning, yes a tach and timing light would be needed. And a golf tee! LOL
 
Kern Dog said:
The members here have been too polite. The way I see it, this is a clear example of the following:
A fool and his money are soon parted.



You spent money that you couldn't afford to lose on a car you didn't need and that you can't fix. You know little about cars, don't want to learn and don't want to spend more.
24 thousand dollars? That is an expensive lesson.
Sell it for whatever you can get and find a cheaper hobby.
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I've actually been too polite myself.

What do you care what a man does with his money and buying things he can't afford? That's woman talk. You don't know my situation, just tidbits here and there, Ms Kravitz.

Or are you salty, and you've developed high flow? Change your maxipad and go somewhere else. You're taking up valuable thread space.
 
George Jets said:
This right here ^^^ tells you the gas leak is at the lock ring and gasket for the fuel sending unit.

You have to rebend the sending unit float arm so when you have 1/2 tank of gas, your gauge reads 1/2 tank. Not 3/4 or full.

Can do the work with the tank in the car.

View attachment 1716084156

☆☆☆☆☆
Click to expand...
Nice pic. I was able to reach over the axle. My tank is different than yours and leaks from the assembly above the rim, runs down the side and over the back

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20230430_114541.jpg
 
You can see the long slots in the bracket I circled in red. You need to look which screws hold the throttle cable bracket to the main bracket, loosen them and slide the cable bracket further back on the main bracket until the carburetor opens all the way when the pedal is depressed. Once you do that, check and make sure the throttle is all the way closed and is not being held open by the cable after making your adjustment. In other words, LEAVE your block of wood in place and make the adjustment. Make sense?

STEVE'S LINKAGE.jpg
 
Some simple fixes and get the tune up straightened out and I bet that car runs really well.
 
Steve Mcbean said:
Oh, **** that's right! I went back and placed the 2x4 again, then noticed I could could pull back the throttle another inch or so.
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Make sure each time you check the throttle plates that you open the choke plate first each time. The choke plate is attached to linkage and if the choke is closed, it will block the secondary plates from opening. So manually open the choke each time like you did in that first picture.
 
1st picture is only pedal to floor. 2nd is choke plate open with finger. 3rd is both open. 4th is both open with side view.

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20230430_131624.jpg
 
oh, that's just a fine place for a fuel regulator. yup, fine... just fine.

get that TCB on the pronto. if you actually need a regulator, put it in the engine bay closer to the carb (fender well is a fantastic location) so you can actually adjust it if need be.
 
I wanna make this clear one more time. I'm not giving up on this car. I love this car. I'm selling because our small business has tanked last two years with this economy and I'm liquidating assets to pay the rent and survive. I've had to lay off couple workers and do the work myself. Sold two trucks already and the Demon is last on the list. Cars are toys, they don't pay my bills. If I take a huge loss, so be it. Not the first time. Even 2008 wasn't this bad.
 
Mattax said:
Its a good demonstration of how little throttle opening is needed for basic everyday driving.
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There were some huge engines that were built with just a 2 barrel carburetor.
Didn't Buick, Olds or Pontiac put a 2 barrel on a 455? Our own Industrial 413 came with 2 barrel carburetors in HD trucks.
 
Steve Mcbean said:
I wanna make this clear one more time. I'm not giving up on this car. I love this car. I'm selling because our small business has tanked last two years with this economy and I'm liquidating assets to pay the rent and survive. I've had to lay off couple workers and do the work myself. Sold two trucks already and the Demon is last on the list. Cars are toys, they don't pay my bills. If I take a huge loss, so be it. Not the first time. Even 2008 wasn't this bad.
Click to expand...
Well. I think you'll do better on the sale if you get it running better. Not that I think most of the market value is in the mechanicals, but it helps.

Rotate the electric choke so its further open when cold. Choke is the last thing to adjust on the carb. Get the throttle cable and 'kickdown' cable figured out. Then set the hot idle mixture, initial timing, and idle speed. That's a iterative process. Just get it close to begin with. You can tune it finer later. All that will make a huge difference. When that's all good, then you can fiddle with the choke and choke pull-off adjustment. Until then just give it a couple of extra pumpsas needed from the throttle when starting cold.

Since the car has an electric pump, you can use that to get fuel out of the tank. Be CAREFUL. Static electricity as well as real electiricity can cause a spark. Pump it into 5 gal fuel containers.

Then put the battery on charge before running the car. Using the alternator to recharge a very low battery will lead to other problems.
 
Kern Dog said:
There were some huge engines that were built with just a 2 barrel carburetor.
Didn't Buick, Olds or Pontiac put a 2 barrel on a 455? Our own Industrial 413 came with 2 barrel carburetors in HD trucks.
Click to expand...
That I don't know.
Most 4 barrels are progressive anyway. In other words, the secondaries only begin to move after the primary throttles are partially open. Then they catch up, or partially catch up. Some designs never get the secondaries to full 90 degree (on purpose).

My point was that it doesn't take much throttle opening to get a car to move. Its hard for people for wrap their heads around that.
 
Mattax said:
Well. I think you'll do better on the sale if you get it running better. Not that I think most of the market value is in the mechanicals, but it helps.

Rotate the electric choke so its further open when cold. Choke is the last thing to adjust on the carb. Get the throttle cable and 'kickdown' cable figured out. Then set the hot idle mixture, initial timing, and idle speed. That's a iterative process. Just get it close to begin with. You can tune it finer later. All that will make a huge difference. When that's all good, then you can fiddle with the choke and choke pull-off adjustment. Until then just give it a couple of extra pumpsas needed from the throttle when starting cold.

Since the car has an electric pump, you can use that to get fuel out of the tank. Be CAREFUL. Static electricity as well as real electiricity can cause a spark. Pump it into 5 gal fuel containers.

Then put the battery on charge before running the car. Using the alternator to recharge a very low battery will lead to other problems.
Click to expand...
I'm gonna get some help with this. Tuning is out of my league and I gotta get the tank leak fixed. I might know a guy. I posted some pics earlier. I cant tell if that's the pump directly behind the differential. I cant see where the sending unit is in the picture. This the the driver side pic. The other side is stuffed with a bunch of fuel hoses

20230430_114531.jpg
 
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