Just as slow as before my mods..

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Nice pic. I was able to reach over the axle. My tank is different than yours and leaks from the assembly above the rim, runs down the side and over the back

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It wouldn't surprise me if the rubber hose has worn through on the top of the differential housing and is the source of your leak, plus as mentioned by @junkyardhero that fuel pressure regulator is in a terrible place. Whoever did this disaster needs a kick in the head with a steel toed boot, that is nothing more than a slow fuse to a devastating fire. It must be corrected asap. Looks like a good part of your lack of power is solved, keep at it, even if you don't keep the car, the experience and knowledge will serve you well when you decide to buy another one.
 
here's what it looks like à la nude

extrapolate from there.

890-1071_800.jpg
 
It wouldn't surprise me if the rubber hose has worn through on the top of the differential housing and is the source of your leak, plus as mentioned by @junkyardhero that fuel pressure regulator is in a terrible place. Whoever did this disaster needs a kick in the head with a steel toed boot, that is nothing more than a slow fuse to a devastating fire. It must be corrected asap. Looks like a good part of your lack of power is solved, keep at it, even if you don't keep the car, the experience and knowledge will serve you well when you decide to buy another one.
I have a hard time searching and remembering who recommended what. Lots of great advice. Here's the pic of the driver side. You're right. Dangerous place and easy to get damaged. I also noticed the exhaust wasn't attached at the rear. So many loose ends.

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I have a hard time searching and remembering who recommended what. Lots of great advice. Here's the pic of the driver side. You're right. Dangerous place and easy to get damaged. I also noticed the exhaust wasn't attached at the rear. So many loose ends.

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It suspiciously like a fuel pressure regulator. Those don't belong at the rear end. Put it up on the passenger fenderwell or cowl where it can be easily adjusted. You want to regulate the pressure at the carb not at the back bumper.
 
Is there also a mechanical pump on the engine? If so, thats a quick route to simplifying the setup and ditching the extra hose. Also could explain the fuel gage issues . The factory pickup completes the circuit using a clip from the sender to the fuel hard line. Autometer might be the same.
 
SO the sending unit is directly in front of the diff?
Looks like your tank is an aftermarket one, in the earlier pics I thought I could see the sending unit on the top of the tank, if it is in the factory location it should be visible in the pic from the right side. Way too many fuel lines in close proximity to the differential for my liking, should be a simple one short hose connected to a steel line, maybe 2 in a return system. Does the car have an electric fuel pump?
 
SO the sending unit is directly in front of the diff?
Nearly, On a factory or copy of a factory tank.
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The wire is to the sender.
The rubber hose is very short.
The steel clip is harder to see in the photo.
Hold on.

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This is a '67 car^ so that is why you don't see the straps holding the tank up. Also why there is no provision for vapor capture and return.
 
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Generally speaking, you want the fuel regulator as close to the carburetor as practically possible. At the very least in the engine bay. That way, you can make necessary adjustments without crawling under the car. lol
 
Generally speaking, you want the fuel regulator as close to the carburetor as practically possible. At the very least in the engine bay. That way, you can make necessary adjustments without crawling under the car. lol
See post #155
 
I have a hard time searching and remembering who recommended what. Lots of great advice. Here's the pic of the driver side. You're right. Dangerous place and easy to get damaged. I also noticed the exhaust wasn't attached at the rear. So many loose ends.

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The silver thing at the top with the screw sticking out looks like a fuel pressure regulator. It looks like there's a fuel pump just under it.
These aren't bad parts, but they're in a bad spot. The pump should be close to the tank, but the regulator is typically in the engine bay to make it easier to service. If it's a bypass type, you can use it to help prevent vapor lock, but I bet it's not doing that the way it's installed right now.

A handy csr guy could probably have that car near perfect in a couple hours with no new parts..

The lokar cable setup is probably your biggest hurdle. I've never used one, but lots of members seem to find they can either get the trans cable right, or the throttle right, but rarely both.

Lots of people have stuff to say about the costs you've paid, but those are pretty average these days if going to a shop. Fee are willing or able to swap in an OD trans but are quick to criticize when someone else pays to have it done. Makes no sense. It's a shame the one shop went out of business since the benefit of paying a shop is having someone to hold accountable though.

The car is really close, and others are right: a good running car is going to being a premium over one with issues. I'd be tempted to try bring a trailer. Buyers there seem to like giving away money these days and a real demon in good shape is tough to find. Lots of reasons not to sell there too though.

Best of luck. Hopefully the next mechanic has a soul!
 
Is there also a mechanical pump on the engine? If so, thats a quick route to simplifying the setup and ditching the extra hose. Also could explain the fuel gage issues . The factory pickup completes the circuit using a clip from the sender to the fuel hard line. Autometer might be the same.
The pump whizzes loudly at the rear when i turn the key, but lots of leak at the tank. Cant see where its leaking and dont wanna put my face underneath. Could the pump be in the tank? I also saw this hose on passenger rear axle coming from the possible regulator and then stops here and goes nowhere. IS that a vent?

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Generally speaking, you want the fuel regulator as close to the carburetor as practically possible. At the very least in the engine bay. That way, you can make necessary adjustments without crawling under the car. lol

Not to mention they physically work better that way too! Having a long rubber line feeding back to it is asking for bouncing or pulsing pressure. Mechanical regulators don't like momentum.

I bet there's something screwy going on with it, either being used as a return regulator with a sketchy bulkhead fitting. If it was setup as a deadhead, it would be so much eaiser to mount it at the carb.

Looks like there might be a fuel pump under the reg too, but it's tough to tell.
 
The silver thing at the top with the screw sticking out looks like a fuel pressure regulator. It looks like there's a fuel pump just under it.
These aren't bad parts, but they're in a bad spot. The pump should be close to the tank, but the regulator is typically in the engine bay to make it easier to service. If it's a bypass type, you can use it to help prevent vapor lock, but I bet it's not doing that the way it's installed right now.

A handy csr guy could probably have that car near perfect in a couple hours with no new parts..

The lokar cable setup is probably your biggest hurdle. I've never used one, but lots of members seem to find they can either get the trans cable right, or the throttle right, but rarely both.

Lots of people have stuff to say about the costs you've paid, but those are pretty average these days if going to a shop. Fee are willing or able to swap in an OD trans but are quick to criticize when someone else pays to have it done. Makes no sense. It's a shame the one shop went out of business since the benefit of paying a shop is having someone to hold accountable though.

The car is really close, and others are right: a good running car is going to being a premium over one with issues. I'd be tempted to try bring a trailer. Buyers there seem to like giving away money these days and a real demon in good shape is tough to find. Lots of reasons not to sell there too though.

Best of luck. Hopefully the next mechanic has a soul!
The regulator is bolted to the pump underneath with those brass screws?
 
The pump whizzes loudly at the rear when i turn the key, but lots of leak at the tank. Cant see where its leaking and dont wanna put my face underneath. Could the pump be in the tank? I also saw this hose on passenger rear axle coming from the possible regulator and then stops here and goes nowhere.

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So it only leaks when the pump is running?

As far as seeing better, that's where a couple of 2 x 10s under the rear wheels can be helpful without resorting to a lift or jack stands.
Another route is a mirror so your not right underneath the leak!
 
The regulator is bolted to the pump underneath with those brass screws?

No, those 4x brass screws are part of the regulator (they're actually steel, with a chromate coating).
I think there could be a pump under the bracket the regulator is attached to. Maybe not, but that's how it appears. Lots of stuff crammed in there and lots of hoses, so hard to say.

In post 163, the silver thing you show should be a vent. They typically have a ball bearing in them too to stop fuel spilling if the car is upside down. But if it's mounted too low, it will leak fuel when your tank is full or when you go around corners.
 
If it was mine, I'd get that electric pump off. I'm sure it doesn't need it. A stock style mechanical pump would serve it well.
 
If it was mine, I'd get that electric pump off. I'm sure it doesn't need it. A stock style mechanical pump would serve it well.
Could it be the electric pump forces fuel out of the connections, which leaks, and a mechanical one would not leak?
 
If it was mine, I'd get that electric pump off. I'm sure it doesn't need it. A stock style mechanical pump would serve it well.
I didn't want to suggest that but I did want suggest that.
Heck there could be a mechanical pump on it already.
Or - you tell me - could the cam have be missing the eccentric? Is that common when the plan is run an electric pump?
 
Could it be the electric pump forces fuel out of the connections, which leaks, and a mechanical one would not leak?
What I'm saying is if it only leaks when the pump is run, then the tank itself is not leaking.
 
I didn't want to suggest that but I did want suggest that.
Heck there could be a mechanical pump on it already.
Or - you tell me - could the cam have be missing the eccentric? Is that common when the plan is run an electric pump?
It has to be electric. It turns on when I turn the key, makes noise, and leaks fuel.
 
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