Ladder bars..??..

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OK figured it out...........that floater kit look like it has 100 ways to bind though.
Slotted plateVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV
latter bar Floater Kit.PNG
 
Cudafever said:
just re read that.......slider on the axle? and floater..............So the latter-bars keeping the tire center. front to back(pin in the leaf is no longer centering axle) so the leaf floats and slide alone with the shackle ??????????????

Also the leaf spring it acting like the Trac Bar???
Guess i need to go look at the "floater kit" j-par posted up earlier.
Click to expand...
Sorry floater
 
Wayoutfish said:
Put the slider at the rear housing mount and keep the shackles. That's how i ran mine. Again, i had mono leafs.
Click to expand...
It seems to me there would still be axle to leaf spring bind if and even if the ladder bar was the same length away as the front eye of the leaf Spring. I think yellow rose pointed that out earlier. I don't think the slider on the rear would take out the bind? To me you would have to have the axel floaters.. once you do that the ladder bars would have complete control of the pinion angle and completely eliminate axle wrap...
 
I am going to ask a dumb question, how noisy are those floaters and sliders on the street. I mean like here in Home of the Pothole, Indiana? Think daily driver...
 
Cudafever said:
OK figured it out...........that floater kit look like it has 100 ways to bind though.
Slotted plateVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV
View attachment 1715517137
Click to expand...
You do realize that the floaters clamp around the housing that do not clamp down on it as in it allows the housing to roll. In the instructions your to put a thin layer of grease on it so it can rotate does the Springs go up and down.. probably not much..
 
did you get the wheel tubs ordered yet? Dana 60 narrowed yet ?
 
j par said:
You do realize that the floaters clamp around the housing that do not clamp down on it as in it allows the housing to roll. In the instructions your to put a thin layer of grease on it so it can rotate does the Springs go up and down.. probably not much..
Click to expand...

Yes
So the point of "binding" is that, that leaf spring is also going to slide back and forth threw that bracket threw a bunch of bushing holding it from side to side motion as well as being able to slide forward and and back threw the floater(my statement was "100 ways to bind")exaggeration but the roller either are going to be tight on the side of the leaf spring(bind) or loose(aka loose trac bar affect)
The leaf spring will slide, up and down, the axle. the slotted plate that i outlined in red. from the pic you posted of the Floater!

Maybe i should rephrase that....
Because of the slotted Plate(Part of the floater kit) that the spring centering bolt will slide forward and back as the spring get longer and shorter as the suspension goes up and down.
Rear shackle will do the same as always.

When i first read slider i took it was replacing the shackle for a slider.......NO slider as part of the floater and retain rear shackles.
I'm just telling you and others, that i finally get that.
 
Cudafever said:
Yes
So the point of "binding" is that, that leaf spring is also going to slide back and forth threw that bracket threw a bunch of bushing holding it from side to side motion as well as being able to slide forward and and back threw the floater(my statement was "100 ways to bind")exaggeration but the roller either are going to be tight on the side of the leaf spring(bind) or loose(aka loose trac bar affect)
The leaf spring will slide, up and down, the axle. the slotted plate that i outlined in red. from the pic you posted of the Floater!

Maybe i should rephrase that....
Because of the slotted Plate(Part of the floater kit) that the spring centering bolt will slide forward and back as the spring get longer and shorter as the suspension goes up and down.
Rear shackle will do the same as always.

When i first read slider i took it was replacing the shackle for a slider.......NO slider as part of the floater and retain rear shackles.
I'm just telling you and others, that i finally get that.
Click to expand...

Actually, the axle housing moves (rotates) and that’s what the slot is for. The spring doesn’t move, but it does get shorter with more separation and longer with under compression. The length of the spring front eye center line and the center line of the front mount of the ladder bar are two different lengths and that’s why you need the housing floater. It allows the housing to rotate to compensate for the two different arcs of the spring and ladder bar.
 
Keep in mind, leaf sprAngs are good for down into the eights......maybe sevens. So it's a question of style. A question of what someone wants out of their build. Better ways to do it? Maybe. But no better way to do it like the owner WANTS to. So there's "THAT". It will be old school cool, too.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Keep in mind, leaf sprAngs are good for down into the eights......maybe sevens. So it's a question of style. A question of what someone wants out of their build. Better ways to do it? Maybe. But no better way to do it like the owner WANTS to. So there's "THAT". It will be old school cool, too.
Click to expand...
That's more what I'm going for is cool old school.. that's why I want to build my own actual ladder bars.. big long girder looking things the connect on the bottom and hang down real low and if I get a flat I can slide the rest of the way home LOL..
actually that was something I was taking into consideration was I don't want them to go lower than the circumference of the rims or I could possibly slide on them with a flat tire and I'm sure that's not going to be good...
 
j par said:
That's more what I'm going for is cool old school.. that's why I want to build my own actual ladder bars.. big long girder looking things the connect on the bottom and hang down real low and if I get a flat I can slide the rest of the way home LOL..
actually that was something I was taking into consideration was I don't want them to go lower than the circumference of the rims or I could possibly slide on them with a flat tire and I'm sure that's not going to be good...
Click to expand...

Then put heavy duty casters on the bottom of um.
 
I was just reading where somebody slotted the front connection for the ladder bar allowing it forward and backward movement but not up and down...?..
 
j par said:
You do realize that the floaters clamp around the housing that do not clamp down on it as in it allows the housing to roll. In the instructions your to put a thin layer of grease on it so it can rotate does the Springs go up and down.. probably not much..
Click to expand...

Shouldnt change the spring rate at all----------best w/ coil overs.
 
j par said:
That's more what I'm going for is cool old school.. that's why I want to build my own actual ladder bars.. big long girder looking things the connect on the bottom and hang down real low and if I get a flat I can slide the rest of the way home LOL..
actually that was something I was taking into consideration was I don't want them to go lower than the circumference of the rims or I could possibly slide on them with a flat tire and I'm sure that's not going to be good...
Click to expand...

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^very old technology , not as good as todays designs !
 
famous bob said:
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^very old technology , not as good as todays designs !
Click to expand...
This thread brings back good memories for me. My car was tubbed with Dana 60, strange axels and spool. It had mono leaf springs,floater and shackles at the rear with ladder bars. Also had 5.38 gear set. It may be old technology but it flat out worked . Yes it was a race car, but I would take it out on the street at least 4 times a year. Miss that car.
 
Last edited:
I mounted the nose of my torque arm like a leaf spring style shackle to eliminate the bind, you could do the same with a set of ladders...

GSSshopmule7.jpg


It's similar to this kit that I make to put a solid axle 8.8 into an IRS Mazda RX-7...

2TASAkit1750w.jpg


When I first designed the above torque arm setup, my original idea was a set of ladders that converged in front to allow some articulation for the street. The shackle plates are made from 1/4"x2" and ended up doubling as a legal driveline loop. The rubber biscuits that attach the nose anchor assy into the top of the trans tunnel are actually machined hockey pucks :)

Grant
 
weedburner said:
I mounted the nose of my torque arm like a leaf spring style shackle to eliminate the bind, you could do the same with a set of ladders...

View attachment 1715517458

It's similar to this kit that I make to put a solid axle 8.8 into an IRS Mazda RX-7...

View attachment 1715517459

When I first designed the above torque arm setup, my original idea was a set of ladders that converged in front to allow some articulation for the street. The shackle plates are made from 1/4"x2" and ended up doubling as a legal driveline loop. The rubber biscuits that attach the nose anchor assy into the top of the trans tunnel are actually machined hockey pucks :)

Grant
Click to expand...
Has anybody told you that you're awesome lately!...:thumbsup:...
 
weedburner said:
I mounted the nose of my torque arm like a leaf spring style shackle to eliminate the bind, you could do the same with a set of ladders...

View attachment 1715517458

It's similar to this kit that I make to put a solid axle 8.8 into an IRS Mazda RX-7...

View attachment 1715517459

When I first designed the above torque arm setup, my original idea was a set of ladders that converged in front to allow some articulation for the street. The shackle plates are made from 1/4"x2" and ended up doubling as a legal driveline loop. The rubber biscuits that attach the nose anchor assy into the top of the trans tunnel are actually machined hockey pucks :)

Grant
Click to expand...
So with this theory I could buy some of these..
Screenshot_20200427-080027.png

Weldom to the bottom of the actual and build ladder bars there go to these...
Screenshot_20200427-080234.png

And no binding and all would be good?...
 
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