LCA bushing fear

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remytherat said:
That’s what I did. It was cheap and took about 30 minutes. Whether or not they will squeak is a dice roll unless you use the polygraphite bushings or whatever.
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Mine have been in there for years with no squeaks.
I should also add the my original bushings were so bad I was able to pry the arms off the pins, so in this case I didn’t have to take the pins out of the K.
 
I just lit mine on fire then pulled out the pins with my bare hands because I don’t have a press. Worked fine
 
remytherat said:
I just lit mine on fire then pulled out the pins with my bare hands because I don’t have a press. Worked fine
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i was there and saw it. not only was i impressed by this physical feat, but a little turned on too.

just kidding, but i can confirm that he did it with his bare hands because he brought them over for me to double check his work.
 
Getting them back in took some force. Burning the bushing completely separates it and it's barely in there anymore.
 
Icetech said:
I drilled the rubber out then melted out what was left with a propane torch, then used a sawzall on the inside of the bushing in the LCA just enough in 3 spots to use a chisel to collapse it and pop it out... putting the new one in is TIGHT.. i have a huge vice and it wasn't happy doing it.. it worked though
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remytherat said:
I just lit mine on fire then pulled out the pins with my bare hands because I don’t have a press. Worked fine
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I don’t know why anyone would ever use a torch on the LCA bushings. It’s completely unnecessary in ALL cases, and it just makes a mess.

Even if you don’t have a press you can pry the LCA’s off of the pins using a pry bar between the LCA and K frame. If the bushings need to be replaced it will be VERY easy, even if they don’t need to be replaced it’s not that difficult. The rubber isn’t bonded to the shells at all. The bushings on my ‘71 GT were so bad when I got it one of the LCA’s literally fell off after I removed the torsion bar and strut rod.

If you do have a press you can press the pins out, it’s easier if the bushings are new but really you only need a press to maintain constant pressure to move the LCA off of the bushing- it’s not the force needed, it’s the constant pressure. Which is a why a pry bar works too.

Once the pins are out you can just peel the bushing out with a screwdriver or pick.

This is a brand new rubber LCA bushing I pulled out of a QA1 LCA to replace it with Delrin. I used a press only because I had one and the LCA’s weren’t mounted on the car yet (brand new, welding was for extra gussets). And the bushing peels out nice and clean.

IMG_1834.jpeg


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72bluNblu said:
I don’t know why anyone would ever use a torch on the LCA bushings. It’s completely unnecessary in ALL cases, and it just makes a mess.

Even if you don’t have a press you can pry the LCA’s off of the pins using a pry bar between the LCA and K frame. If the bushings need to be replaced it will be VERY easy, even if they don’t need to be replaced it’s not that difficult. The rubber isn’t bonded to the shells at all. The bushings on my ‘71 GT were so bad when I got it one of the LCA’s literally fell off after I removed the torsion bar and strut rod.

If you do have a press you can press the pins out, it’s easier if the bushings are new but really you only need a press to maintain constant pressure to move the LCA off of the bushing- it’s not the force needed, it’s the constant pressure. Which is a why a pry bar works too.

Once the pins are out you can just peel the bushing out with a screwdriver or pick.

This is a brand new rubber LCA bushing I pulled out of a QA1 LCA to replace it with Delrin. I used a press only because I had one and the LCA’s weren’t mounted on the car yet (brand new, welding was for extra gussets). And the bushing peels out nice and clean.

View attachment 1716274131

View attachment 1716274132
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Yours and mine didn't come apart the same.. mine were original from 62 and sat since 78... nothing was just peeling out, it was a battle and i didn't just make it harder for no reason....
 
Icetech said:
Yours and mine didn't come apart the same.. mine were original from 62 and sat since 78... nothing was just peeling out, it was a battle and i didn't just make it harder for no reason....
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Suit yourself, I’ve pulled apart many sets of LCA’s at this point and have no problem at all saying the torch is 100% unnecessary. New bushings, old bushings, using a torch on those bushings in particular just makes your life more difficult, I promise. But hey, if you want to do it the hard way knock yourself out.
 
Before I got a press, I used a gear puller to get my pins out.

You’ll need a press for reassembly.
 
remytherat said:
You could also leave the sleeves and use poly…

Whether that’s definitively the right way to go is a debate for another thread
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Unless you buy the pin that allows the poly bushing to be greased, I would stick with OEM +
 
I've done two sets of LCAs. First set I drilled and burned the rubber out and then cut and chiseled the sleeve out.

Second set I pressed the pin and rubber out. Then welded a washer inside the sleeve and pressed the sleeve out.

The latter was a million times easier.
 
ESP47 said:
I've done two sets of LCAs. First set I drilled and burned the rubber out and then cut and chiseled the sleeve out.

Second set I pressed the pin and rubber out. Then welded a washer inside the sleeve and pressed the sleeve out.

The latter was a million times easier.
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a buddy offered me his press.. i don't wanna use up garage space but when you need one it would be nice :)
 
Icetech said:
a buddy offered me his press.. i don't wanna use up garage space but when you need one it would be nice :)
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Agreed. My harbor freight press paid for itself in one use and I've used it dozens of times since then.
 
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ESP47 said:
Agreed. My harbor freight pressed paid for itself in one use and I've used it dozens of times since then.
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whats funny is he's only a mile away and i won't go to his house to use it.. he hates mopar so much that i don't even mention my car to him
 
I bought a 12-ton press from Harbor Freight for $99 years ago, and I've pressed out dozens of bushings with it. I keep it in my basement to free up space in the garage; it's saved me hundreds if not thousands of dollars in machine shop labor.
 
Ok, I’m going poly. Pressed out pins easy, rubber came out easy. Didn’t want to waste cash on Mancini braces so I did it myself with 1/8” steel. Turned out good.
IMG_1867.jpeg

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Just waiting on FedEx for my bushings and ball joints and it should be better than stock.

Rgaz
 
remytherat said:
That’s what I did. It was cheap and took about 30 minutes. Whether or not they will squeak is a dice roll unless you use the polygraphite bushings or whatever.
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I wanted to mention the grease able pins, but had to go back and check if they were already mentioned.


Newbomb Turk said:
I’m saying never EVER do this advice I’m about to give.

If you follow my advice you need your head examined.

If you listen to me you are taking your life in your own hands and the lives of anyone around.

Again, I’m saying to you DO NOT DO THIS.

So this is what I do.

I get a tire chock out and block the rear tires so the car can’t go backwards.

Put in the emergency brake as hard as you can. Then you can jump out and do your tuning.

It’s how I’ve done it since high school. I know it’s unsafe like a **** but when you are single handed you do what you have to do.

I always use reverse because if something goes sideways the car will go backwards and not run you over, hence the wheel chocks on the back tires.

If it does get loose it won’t run you over and kill you but it might get loose and back up and injure or kill someone else.

Or crash your car into something or another car.

This procedure is NOT SAFE. I suggest you do not do it.

If you are stuck working by yourself it may be your only option.

And again, I say DO NOT DO IT. ITS NOT SAFE.

If you chose to do it I accept no responsibility for any property damage, injuries or deaths because I said do NOT do it.
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Funny. :D
 
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