Just mock up for now, locking nuts later. the other rod is what I started with, made an extension using the original strut end to make longer with the heim dead center with lca pivot so no bind or change of lca arc.
LCA Bushings and Other Bushings
- Thread starter Old Tired Rebel
- Start date
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Without the torsion bar attached they should move easily without any side to side movement. That is how you check for binding before tightening the strut bars. Snug up the LCA pivot bolt, but do not tighten completely until the weight of the car is on the ground.
Torsion bar piece doesn’t move now, plenty of free play for the arm around it. The lca pin is locked down tight in the k-frame now, still move it up and down with one finger.
Man, what a read! (and responding only a year late!) Just ordered my pins and delrin from bergman. steering box and struts from PST and am looking forward to new K going in. Im running the problem solvers in UCA, since they are rubber, I am assuming that the tightening of the bolts happens when sitting at ride height? Great Thread!!
You will be happy. We have the only automotive grade Delrin bushings on the market along with hand fitted pins made from the same hardness material as OE. These parts offer the best of all worlds, precise movement, quiet operation and long life.
Correct, the rubber bushings will need to have their bolts fully torqued at ride height because they have to flex to allow the suspension to move. So they need to be tightened in the middle of the range of suspension travel, which should be ride height (or close enough). That way half the travel is flex up, and half the travel is flex down, because the rubber bushings will tear if the entire suspension travel is flex in one direction (like if you tightened the bolts with the suspension hanging on the bump stops).
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