LCA pivots

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Canuck Bryan

Canuck Bryan

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Ok, here is my issue. I removed the old bushings and pressed new ones into the lower control arms. I followed all of the install steps in the clymer manual that I have. Once everything else was torqued in, I began to torque the nut on the pivot, at which point the pivot started to spin with very little torque. I stopped it from spinning, but it still managed to pull the pivot shaft out of the control arm. I took everything apart - pressed it back in and reinstalled - same problem. I looked back at the pictures I had prior to tearing the car down and the pivots appear to be out as far as they are now - but I just want to make sure everything is as it should be. Part of the problem may be that the new strut bushings are not compressed as much (to get them where I can install the pin they are way over torqued). Started on the drivers side - moved to the passenger side - same problem - stud pulling out of the LCA.

Is this all right or do I need to fix something? If I need to fix it any suggestions of how to do that would be great.

Thanks,
Bryan.
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The fit on the LCA with urethanes is normal. However, since the urethane lca bushings are thicker, putting the arm a little to the rear in the chassis, you need to make up that distance with adjustable strut rods. This was there won't be any binding and you can fine tune the position of the lower arm. PM me if you are interested in a set of heim jointed strut rods that are adjustable. They eliminate the need for the bushings in the front of the K frame.
 
I have mine all the way to the flat on the pin with adjustable strut rods.
 
Urethane strut bushings are too thick for 63-72 strut rods, they will fit on 73-76 strut rods though. There are four ways you can solve this problem:
1: use the stock style rubber strut bushings
2: Get a set of 73-76 strut rods and use the urethane bushings
3: Buy a set of adjustable strut rods and use urethane bushings
4: cut 3/8" off the rear bushing and put the cut off piece or a 3/8" spacer in with the front bushing.
 
Thanks all,
Looks like I will go with the adjustable strut rods. Waiting to see what GmachineDartGT has.

So many small things that pop up unexpected. But all good fun.

Bryan.
 
the car needs to be at ride height with the full weight,motor in,before you do your torque specs.or you will be doing the lowers again
 
jdsduster said:
the car needs to be at ride height with the full weight,motor in,before you do your torque specs.or you will be doing the lowers again
Click to expand...

Are you sure about that? The manual states that everything that I have done so far should be done with the car raised on jack stands - ride height and everything else is set after the control arms, struts, etc are installed correctly and the car is sitting on the tires.

Obviously I will be retorquing everything after the first few 100 miles, but I really do not see how you could install the control arms with the car at ride height and full weight.
 
Canuck Bryan said:
Are you sure about that? The manual states that everything that I have done so far should be done with the car raised on jack stands - ride height and everything else is set after the control arms, struts, etc are installed correctly and the car is sitting on the tires.

Obviously I will be retorquing everything after the first few 100 miles, but I really do not see how you could install the control arms with the car at ride height and full weight.
Click to expand...

If you are using poly bushings in the LCAs they can be tightened up with the car in the air/no engine, etc. The poly bushings allow the lower control arm to rotate on the pin. So as the car bounces up and down while driving the bushing is rotating. With the stock bushings the LCA is fixed to the pin and as the car bounces up and down the rubber in the LCA bushing flexes. So if you use the stock bushings, the car should be at ride height before tigthening the nut on the LCA pins. I prefer the stock bushings myself.

You dont have install the control arm at ride height, just wait to tighten the nut for the pin when the car is at ride height (with stock bushings). Back to the original question. Are you torsion bars all the way in with the clips in place? I will try and take a picture of mine to compare the distance.

Also, I am from Whitecourt not too far
 
Nice - Whitecourt isnt too far at all.

I am using poly bushings - got a full kit from energy suspension when I first starting stocking up on parts. Wasn't until recently that I started hearing of the debate between poly and OEM rubber bushings. Will stick with the poly ones in the LCA for now and see how it goes.

The torsion bars are all the way in with the clips installed. I have new torsion bars from Hotchkis on the way so installing them will give me an opportunity to sort out the LCA issue before getting too far ahead of myself.

Bryan.
 
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