Leaf Springs

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mikesduster said:
I have a couple of questions and comments.
What did you launch the car RPM wise?? What tires you run out back at the track??

Too me,when I watched both videos, is that your not bringing the motor up on the converter. When you bring the motor up on the converter,the back end will lift and then when you whack it,the springs SHOULD arch and give you more hook and lower your 60'.
If your running a true street tire at the track,you NEED a drag radial or slicks and either one of them will lower your 60' times.

Just my .02
Click to expand...

well i was trying to flash the converter at the track but wont get up (3400+) that i should be able to get footbraking it...

but yea im running street tires but are looking for slicks and working on 4.56's and a spool for the track...
 
I would be lookin at why it won't get up to 3400. because if that's the converter stall territory, it should get there.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
Results vary depending on the torque available at the crank.

unless the slants low output was put into the equation, then it should stall at the advertised.
Click to expand...

if i put it in 3rd and footbrake it hard it will go to 3800...

but the converter will not flash above 2800, or idle in gear... still to tight down low...


but i want to get the car suspension et up right so i can give Andre @ Edge the correct info with correct components...
 
well i ran the car just as i did at vegas first pass... ran a 14.78 at 91mph with a 2.25 60 foot

best pass out of three runs was a 14.73 @ 92mph with a 60ft of 2.15 (stalling it to 2800)

so the car needs more stall out of the hole which the slicks will let me do...

seems really weird tho that my mph dropped from almost 95 to 92 (2.76 open to 3.91's SG) and trap rpm is only 5K with 3.91's and a 28" tall tire...
 
805moparkid said:
well i ran the car just as i did at vegas first pass... ran a 14.78 at 91mph with a 2.25 60 foot

best pass out of three runs was a 14.73 @ 92mph with a 60ft of 2.15 (stalling it to 2800)

so the car needs more stall out of the hole which the slicks will let me do...

seems really weird tho that my mph dropped from almost 95 to 92 (2.76 open to 3.91's SG) and trap rpm is only 5K with 3.91's and a 28" tall tire...
Click to expand...

Have you raised the timing to see if the mph go's up?

They say if you spin lots of tire that you'll end up with a lil more mph at the trap.
Then again if you had too much gear, you might slow down by the end of the track -torques long gone & hp falls off same as over rev'n
 
Do you have a manual valve body?
 
Just a question you are running a very light car why not switch to coilovers then you can adjust to about any situation or track. Not sure if its a class isssue or just trying to stay with stock supension.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
Have you raised the timing to see if the mph go's up?

They say if you spin lots of tire that you'll end up with a lil more mph at the trap.
Then again if you had too much gear, you might slow down by the end of the track -torques long gone & hp falls off same as over rev'n
Click to expand...

didn't play with timing just launch rpm

there were 12 cars so the track never warmed up... ran best at 2800 launch... would spin at the ;line if i went to 3K

i think part of my problem is i dont have enough lift... the head flows max at .550 and my erson cam only does .475 valve lift...

StrokerScamp said:
Do you have a manual valve body?
Click to expand...

reverse manual

skypower said:
Just a question you are running a very light car why not switch to coilovers then you can adjust to about any situation or track. Not sure if its a class isssue or just trying to stay with stock supension.
Click to expand...

car weights 3100 for now:snakeman:, shooting for 2700

i run with the killer bees so the only limits for classes are fuel type, power adders and weight...

i like like t bars tho...
 
The proper procedure for stall testing a converter with a manual valve body is in high gear. With the car warmed up, put it in high gear and with your foot firmly on the brake, push the gas pedal down watching the tach. The point at which the tach stops climbing is your stall speed.
 
StrokerScamp said:
The proper procedure for stall testing a converter with a manual valve body is in high gear. With the car warmed up, put it in high gear and with your foot firmly on the brake, push the gas pedal down watching the tach. The point at which the tach stops climbing is your stall speed.
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3800rpm @ 180 degrees engine temp
 
....and it's not getting there at launch, right?
 
Maybe I missed something---do you have a line-loc? If not, I'd get one & let the line-loc do the braking work instead of foot-braking it. Of course the trans-brake is the best answer (but they're pricey:sad7:) I'm just thinking the suspension is aaaaallmost there, but the technique & driveline combo needs to be "right" first.
Not meaning to be crticial or sound like an a$$, but it sounds like suspension is only about 1/4 of the "dilemma"...........
 
hemicop said:
Maybe I missed something---do you have a line-loc? If not, I'd get one & let the line-loc do the braking work instead of foot-braking it. Of course the trans-brake is the best answer (but they're pricey:sad7:) I'm just thinking the suspension is aaaaallmost there, but the technique & driveline combo needs to be "right" first.
Not meaning to be crticial or sound like an a$$, but it sounds like suspension is only about 1/4 of the "dilemma"...........
Click to expand...

lol i know im no john force... yet:read2:...

yea i want to do the line lock and go to the wilwoods on the front...

if you watch the vids of the car though kind weird it doesn't lift so squat... front doesn't lift... nothing...

well getting the parts ready for tomarrow... Ss springs and 6 bars, new bump stops for the bottom and shorties for the top...
 
Yeah go vandalize some parkin lot. lol
 
Seriously though it almost sounds as if something is holding the rear suspension from rising. Have you checked the shocks? What are you runnin back there?
 
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