You will see primer. Just with a clear base over it.lol.
Leaving the patina
- Thread starter Oldschoolcuda
- Start date
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DieWilde13
Well-Known Member
Stay with the Patina!!!
"They are only original once!"
My Valiant has heavy Patina, but i let it like it is.
"They are only original once!"
My Valiant has heavy Patina, but i let it like it is.
wd 40
Don't clear coat it, the old single stage paint you have will out last the clear you put on it. I see this all the time & hear people say they are "preserving the patina" but that clear has a shorter life span than the 50 year old paints.
I hear ya but don't have old single stage paint in my case or much of a life expectancy left compared to any paint.lol so might just leave it be.
Previous owner that started build in 2005 had car stripped then primered. They sprayed interior and engine bay in anniversary gold and started sanding /prepping outside and stopped so that is my patina.
Looks cool though.
Previous owner that started build in 2005 had car stripped then primered. They sprayed interior and engine bay in anniversary gold and started sanding /prepping outside and stopped so that is my patina.
Looks cool though.
turbofreek
batcrap crazy racing team
keep the patina
Dart_Doctor
Asa style
leave it
famous bob
mopar misfit
I didn`t read all these posts. but patina looks like you want your car to look like junk.
msaund69
Cold-Member
I'm secure in my self worth and don't need or care to impress anyone. These cars are meant to be enjoyed and plenty of us don't have the cash to get past the patania.
Drive it and enjoy it!
Drive it and enjoy it!
Didn't even bother to take the time to read what people were talking about, but wanted to piss in their cheerios anyway. Nice.
I'd rather see a car with an old or original paint job showing some patina that's actually being driven on the road than a dozen boring show cars that spend all their time in a garage.
Exactly!!!
That's a great looking car, I wouldn't screw it up by tearing it down and painting it. Drive the crap out of it. Sure, eventually the day will come that something will have to be done with the paint to keep the rust at bay, but that's gonna be years. Until then drive it and have fun.
Cars are meant to be driven.
famous bob
mopar misfit
I bought a new 68 form S that looked like that green one, in 1968. traded it in 69 for a 440 rt, always wondered what happened to it. traded at Jack CLARK dodge, main and chartell in okc.
retractable
Well-Known Member
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
I like real pantina but nothing looks dumber then clear coated pantina.
My 65.
My 65.
My reason for possible clearing would be for bare metal protection. But it would have to be as matte as possible. Unless there is some other product I can apply. Also on a side note, I do like to see the odd clear coated patina ride ( real, faux, gloss, matte) but I guess that's just the car guy in me..
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Paint it.
Sure... what's your credit card # lol
This.... Real patina,is priceless...I would shoot a matte or flat clearcoat,on it. Everyone,has personal taste....
Mopar92
Well-Known Member
I can't come to repaint my 73. The paint is shiny but little road rash dings. I put a slightly rough real scoop on it. Matches the the patina.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Learn how to do it yourself. Every car i built since i was 15 i bodyworked and sprayed myself. This was done out of necessity. "Patina" wasnt a thing in the 1980s. They called it the beat to **** look. At 15 my 68 charger needed everything, and paint. Being bucks down i rolled up my sleeves and got to work learning how to remove dents and fix rust holes. No internet back then, i had to scrounge book stores for information, and ask older body shop people for advice. Sure the first try wasnt great, but it was pretty decent, but over time my bodywork skills and paint skills got better.
I dont spray metallics only solid colors. This way if you have to, you can get a gallon of basecoat and shoot the car a piece at a time, as long as you mix the paint thoroughly every time and take it from that gallon it will match. Doing it this way you have more control over dust issues in the shop where your spraying. Use a big exhaust fan to pull the fumes outside while spraying too, otherwise the particulate in the air will settle on the flat surfaces as they dry.
Typically i will use single stage enamel for door jambs, engine compartments, trunk areas etc, and base/clear for exterior. Granted bodywork and paint isnt everybodies cup o tea, however doing it myself saves me money thats better spent on other aspects of my project. Lots of how to books out there on this subject. Why not start with a junk fender or door to practice on. I bet some of you got hidden talent you dont even know you had.
So in closing i'd say give me your credit card number, and let me repaint it for you, however with 4 kids and no time to myself it may be a few years before i can even squirt color on my 67 notch. Talk about self imposed bodyshop purgatory.
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abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
i'd much rather have patina (beat to **** look)then a shitty paint job.
and seriously the 80's? they screwed up a lot of cars with some really stupid looking styles..
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
I wasnt into goofy paint jobs, and fender flairs. Always peferred stock colors, and stock body lines. My first paint job was 68 dodge bright blue irridescent. Factory color for 68 charger. I used a borrowed air compressor and a binks syphon cup gun. Took me several month of flat blocking and priming to make sure the car was good and straight. Prep being the big key. After i shot the paint, i waited 2 weeks and wet sanded it with 1500 grit, and ran a buffing wheel over it to remove overspray, dust etc. Turned out pretty good. It was not a shitty paint job, even for a first timer. At 13 i also helped my older brother bodywork and respray a 68 camaro RS/SS he restored. He taught me a lot as well.
Can you get a shitty paint job first time? You sure can, thats why i recommended practice painting a scrap fender first to learn. Lots of curves and shapes. You only learn and expand your capabilities when you read and try new things.
Again it goes back to reading , learning, and applying what you read. Being my chargers paint was a metallic i had to spray the whole exterior of the car in one shot. I later learned if i stick with solids i can spray a piece at a time and it will match, again as long as pulling from the same paint can and thoroughly mixing before shooting.
Only other times i shot metallics was B5 on my 69 charger, and turquoise green on my 94 chevy pickup to fix some minor body damage on the lower bed side. With the right tools, knowledge and practice anybody can do this. At the very least respray your own engine compartments when doing an engine rebuild if they need a freshen up.
My current guns of choice are a satajet HVLP for pretty much everything color related. A china freight for laying down primer. And a mac tools mini syphon cup gun for door jambs and small spots.
Like i say to my trainees at work that i teach to do aircraft sheetmetal repair, after they are doing nice test repairs on scrap, and they are getting ready to drill to do a repair on an actual aircraft for the first time. (Dont be skeeered) you can do this.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Abodyjoe, i hope you dont think every professional autobody and paint guy was a prodigy when they started. I bet if you ask every one of em about their first paint job they ever did they would tell you it wasnt perfect. Its called practicing for a reason. You get better at something the more you read about it and do it.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
thats fine.. but i'd still rather have an original patina car then a shitty paint job every day of the week..
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