Leaving the patina

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I wasnt into goofy paint jobs, and fender flairs. Always peferred stock colors, and stock body lines. My first paint job was 68 dodge bright blue irridescent. Factory color for 68 charger. I used a borrowed air compressor and a binks syphon cup gun. Took me several month of flat blocking and priming to make sure the car was good and straight. Prep being the big key. After i shot the paint, i waited 2 weeks and wet sanded it with 1500 grit, and ran a buffing wheel over it to remove overspray, dust etc. Turned out pretty good. It was not a shitty paint job, even for a first timer. At 13 i also helped my older brother bodywork and respray a 68 camaro RS/SS he restored. He taught me a lot as well.

Can you get a shitty paint job first time? You sure can, thats why i recommended practice painting a scrap fender first to learn. Lots of curves and shapes. You only learn and expand your capabilities when you read and try new things.

Again it goes back to reading , learning, and applying what you read. Being my chargers paint was a metallic i had to spray the whole exterior of the car in one shot. I later learned if i stick with solids i can spray a piece at a time and it will match, again as long as pulling from the same paint can and thoroughly mixing before shooting.

Only other times i shot metallics was B5 on my 69 charger, and turquoise green on my 94 chevy pickup to fix some minor body damage on the lower bed side. With the right tools, knowledge and practice anybody can do this. At the very least respray your own engine compartments when doing an engine rebuild if they need a freshen up.

My current guns of choice are a satajet HVLP for pretty much everything color related. A china freight for laying down primer. And a mac tools mini syphon cup gun for door jambs and small spots.

Like i say to my trainees at work that i teach to do aircraft sheetmetal repair, after they are doing nice test repairs on scrap, and they are getting ready to drill to do a repair on an actual aircraft for the first time. (Dont be skeeered) you can do this.



no need for your resume man...
 
no need for your resume man...

In a way i feel you asked for my resume, by talking about having a shitty paint job, as well as goofy paint schemes and such. Again anybody can do this kind of work with practice. Why not start with a reshoot of an engine compartment that needs a freshen up when the engines pulled for a rebuild? Small jobs like that help build experience with this stuff. I see a lot of guys on here in the restoration forum that squirt their own colors. Ask some of them for advice.

Your 65 pickup has a perfect color combo for a reshoot one panel at a time since its not metallic. I'd recommend base/clear as it makes a first timer look like a pro. That big clamshell hood can be done off the truck sitting on a set of sawhorses, to get a better angle at it with a paint gun.

As far as patina goes, does a car with patina look good? Well it depends i guess. Manufactured patina no. Original patina yes, clearcoated original patina no. Those are my opinions. I also think it looks good on cars from the 30s to the 50s. Personally i'm not a big fan of patina on 60s 70s cars. Out here in Texas we call it the Texas two tone. Burnt to a crisp on the top, paint left alone on the sides.
 
you can't buy real patina, it has to be earned. To me, a sunburned patina'd car tells me the owner spends his money on his own priorities. Sealing over the patina is just to protect it. I can appreciate most styles of cars, but being from North Texas and spending plenty of time in the panhandle, I happen to be very fond of the Texas two-tone on street cars, and Texas pinstripes on trucks..
 
you can't buy real patina, it has to be earned. To me, a sunburned patina'd car tells me the owner spends his money on his own priorities. Sealing over the patina is just to protect it. I can appreciate most styles of cars, but being from North Texas and spending plenty of time in the panhandle, I happen to be very fond of the Texas two-tone on street cars, and Texas pinstripes on trucks..

I'm 48, and have been living here in Texas the last 23 years of my life, i still cannot get used to the Texas 2 tone. The hood on my pickup is starting to be affected by it, but its also beat to **** with hail damage. I got a nice grey primered steel cowl induction hood ready to go on as soon as i paint the underside. Then i got to fix the roof too.
 
In a way i feel you asked for my resume, by talking about having a shitty paint job, as well as goofy paint schemes and such.

no i never asked for a resume.. just stated that i would much rather have a nice natural patina then a shitty paint job. i have sprayed engine bays and parts of cars and even a brand x or two over the years and they turned out pretty damn decent... staying with non metal flake colors are boring to me..

as far as my 65 goes, it has much more character looking the way it does.. i don't ever see me painting it or having it painted... it looks good as a nice old used truck that i can take and park anywhere, load the back with a motor or firewood and not worry about it.. that truck gets so much attention looking the way it does that it amazes me..


Manufactured patina no. Original patina yes, clearcoated original patina no

totally agree with that..
 
Glad my thread has created so many thoughts and opinions.
Great stuff. Have owned and still own many well painted classics but time for me to do something different.
Hood on my dart was sprayed with matte clear when previous owner had off for engine install. Even cleared over surface rust but to me it looks bad ***. Still going to matte clear rest of my darts body. Close to getting her running and will be adding torq thrust d's to the front, steelies to the back and drivin the crap out of her with no carpet, headliner or door panels. :thumbsup:

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The 64 Belvedere has the patina so what about engine area. Paint or leave as original? I think it should not be painted if the outside is original.

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Would leave if was me. They are only original once.Under hood matching patina is cool.
My Dart is a different animal even in patina world as a repaint was started and engine bay and interior were resprayed and body preped for paint then work stopped and she got sold .
This was in 1985.
 
Would leave if was me. They are only original once.Under hood matching patina is cool.
My Dart is a different animal even in patina world as a repaint was started and engine bay and interior were resprayed and body preped for paint then work stopped and she got sold .
This was in 1985.
didn`t read all the new posts, buy I think any patina makes a car worth less, and look like junk !! --jmo
 
I love patina. :thumbsup: Ware it personally everyday on my old *** body so why not on my 52 yr old car. Neither of which are close to worthless--jmo
 
Also Bob. The 91 ramcharger for sale thread I created that you posted a negative comment on before mods removed it because I mentioned patina sold for
$7100. :lol:
 
Ok boys heres some "patina" for ya. What say you? Leave it? Prime it? Paint it? Junk it ? Lol. Well i'm not junking either of em, that part was a joke, but the condition of these 2 cars isnt.

67 is mine when i got it. Too late on leaving it alone, its currently in primer. The 69 is my sons next in line to get redone. I have complete nose for it in the shop. Its off a different car, correct year parts, color doesnt match. Needs quarters welded on too.

Personally i think these 2 cars look like **** this way. I am remedying this on my 67 now as evidenced by the current pic in my avatar. I will jamb it and may run it in gray primer for awhile before i paint it. There is an epoxy sealer against the metal under it, so i wont be getting any surface rust back. It was a ***** using a DA and 80 grit to get past the scale to good clean metal.

Cheers
Matt

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Ok boys heres some "patina" for ya. What say you? Leave it? Prime it? Paint it? Junk it ? Lol. Well i'm not junking either of em, that part was a joke, but the condition of these 2 cars isnt.



Personally i think these 2 cars look like **** this way.

Agree.
Big difference between leaving the patina and nothing left to even consider leaving it.
 
..... Sealing over the patina is just to protect it......

This is the biggest myth out there. You are going to "protect" paint that's 50 years old, can still be shined up nicely & protect it with clear coat that has a life span of about 10 years out in the elements. Then the clear coat will peel & really look horrible & then you have to paint it.

There is nothing that clear coat is going to protect. If you have any bare metal showing on the high spots just keep it rubbed out & knock out any surface rust while running it out. Keep it waxed up and that helps prolong the surface rust.

There is a big difference in a little surface rust & flaky layers of rust from the backside of lower quarters.
 
Everytime i painted somthing up nice it just got stone chipped or scratched,leave it ruff and drive your car's!
 
I have decided that the 64 Belvedere will stay like it is. I will not clear it but keep wax to protect it from a scale of rust. I will try and clean up the engine some more and then leave like it is . Thanks for all the comments both ways. The wheels will stay this way for awhile. I have some other rims on hand but they are all 14 inch and I like the 15 inch .
 
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