Let's Build a 416 with Cast Iron Heads and Manifolds

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I think the biggest problem with running stock manifolds is getting a decent sized head pipe past the torsion bars. All of those dyno tests on headers vs. stock cast iron manifolds do not take this into consideration.
 
12's will be a cakewalk with 416 cubic inches, even with cast iron heads and exhaust manifolds. With a good converter and sticky tires, you'll be there without even trying.

The '72 Duster I had in highschool (circa 2000) went 12.70's with a 408 with stock 1.88 360 heads that had nothing done to them but a valve job. The Duster had open 3.23's with BFG Radial TA's (2.0+ sec. 60') and a stock converter. In fact, it also only had a 1850 600VS Holley up top. It was a horrible combination because I was a poor kid, but it sure was fun.

Good luck! I'm looking forward to this build.

1688945304706.png
 
BrianT said:
As the title suggests, I'm going to build another stroker engine. I've already had a 500hp 408 in my Dart, but now I want to build something different for my Duster. I'll use this thread to discuss ideas and thoughts that people might have about the build. The car is a 340 "tribute" car so I'm not worried about it looking 100% stock, and I'm not doing any FAST racing, but that is the theme I'm going for. I want the engine to appear to be stock or close to stock looking to the naked eye. I'll probably paint an Edelbrock intake but NO aluminum heads or headers. The goal will be to build a 12 second street car that appears to be basically stock. I'll be running a stock 4 speed and 3.55 gears.

I have a standard 1970 340 block and a set of J heads that are untouched. I will be running the Hughes/Scat forged rotating assembly. And am going to run a mechanical roller camshaft. I realize that iron heads and manifolds will set some limitations, but I'm not opposed to working with them as best as possible to achieve the end goals. I'm starting with bare cores, so everything will have to be replaced any way. Camshaft will be custom ground to work with the heads and exhaust.

Let's have some fun with this and you guys can spend my money as you see fit. Anybody who wants to make negative comments about it, save it for your build thread. I get it. It's not going to be everyone's cup of tea. But it's mine and that's what I want to do. And GO!

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If you know anything about me , of course I like this. 1wild guess would be the exh manifolds will hold back at around 475hp if the heads are about perfect .
 
I like the project. Keep the updates coming, please.
 
Ok I'm just gonna point out this seems like someone's tugg of war with direction.

"Bigger is better right"

Just stroke a BB to 540 or so and top it off with a nice set of 516 heads.

I remember a few threads where BrianT was being a real true colors kinda guy.

Enjoy the build n best of luck.
 
You won’t have any trouble running 12’s with that combo. I ran 11.82 with a stock stroke 340 with J or X heads back in the late 1970’s in my duster. But I did have small headers on it.

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Should be relatively easy. Dad's AAR with a pump gas 10.5:1, 4" crank, T/A heads flow 245, factory six pack, and factory exhaust manifolds in a full weight cuda with factory exhaust and both swaybars intact with factory polyglass tires has run 12.3@110 so far. Talk to Dwayne at Porter Racing for the cam.
 
273 said:
If you want quench could get pistons with a quench pad. Any 360/340/5.9 manifolds should be fine there ain't a huge power difference between them, but the best combo is suppose to be one 340 and one magnum forget which ones. A little head work and the cam should get you there no problem.
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92-3 ?? Dakota RT 360 Magnum
2 1/2 outlets very similar in flow to 68-71 340 manifolds
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Ok I'm just gonna point out this seems like someone's tugg of war with direction.

"Bigger is better right"

Just stroke a BB to 540 or so and top it off with a nice set of 516 heads.

I remember a few threads where BrianT was being a real true colors kinda guy.

Enjoy the build n best of luck.
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Like I said before, I’m just throwing out ideas. If I’m paying for a stroker kit anyway, why not pay for another 19 cubic inches?

I’ma small block guy and I’m gonna stay that way. I’m not sure what you mean by “true colors kinda guy” but I have been a Mopar guy for almost fifty years now.
 
Brooks James said:
92-3 ?? Dakota RT 360 Magnum
2 1/2 outlets very similar in flow to 68-71 340 manifolds
Click to expand...
I don't remember the exact ones, there was a mopar mag did a manifold shootout, I know the best combo was a mix of one 340 and one 5.9. second place was two magnums and third was 340 then 360 then 318 but there was only a like 5-7 hp from best to worst.

Here's another shootout but no magnum, 318 vs 340 was 4 hp on a 300 hp engine.

Installing Exhaust Headers Into 300hp Crate Engine - Mopar Muscle Magazine
 
BrianT said:
Like I said before, I’m just throwing out ideas. If I’m paying for a stroker kit anyway, why not pay for another 19 cubic inches?

I’ma small block guy and I’m gonna stay that way. I’m not sure what you mean by “true colors kinda guy” but I have been a Mopar guy for almost fifty years now.
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I see displacement more as a powerband selecter, your gonna use a powerband range of rpms about 2500 to 3000 rpms from stall to shift points in a drag race. The 434 powerband probaby will operate about 300 rpm less then 408 which is about 400-600 less than a 360. Which depends on what's done to the heads you might make peak hp mid/high 4000 rpms so Eg.. a 2500-5000 to 2800 - 5300 rpm stall to shift.

Good thing it's gonna be strongest at all street rpms and probably only need highway gears, bad thing power is gonna drop off rapidly after peak hp.

3.55 28" tires @ 110 mphs = 4686 rpms

Edit, what I mean by "I see displacement more as a powerband selecter" is generally when deciding what displacement to build, peak power range has somewhat been decided.
So it's usually do I want the powerband between eg. 408 @ 3000 to 6000 rpms or 360 @ 4000 to 7000 rpms. Not do I want to build 4000 to 7000 rpm engine, So should I build a 170 or 543.
 
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BrianT said:
As the title suggests, I'm going to build another stroker engine. I've already had a 500hp 408 in my Dart, but now I want to build something different for my Duster. I'll use this thread to discuss ideas and thoughts that people might have about the build. The car is a 340 "tribute" car so I'm not worried about it looking 100% stock, and I'm not doing any FAST racing, but that is the theme I'm going for. I want the engine to appear to be stock or close to stock looking to the naked eye. I'll probably paint an Edelbrock intake but NO aluminum heads or headers. The goal will be to build a 12 second street car that appears to be basically stock. I'll be running a stock 4 speed and 3.55 gears.

I have a standard 1970 340 block and a set of J heads that are untouched. I will be running the Hughes/Scat forged rotating assembly. And am going to run a mechanical roller camshaft. I realize that iron heads and manifolds will set some limitations, but I'm not opposed to working with them as best as possible to achieve the end goals. I'm starting with bare cores, so everything will have to be replaced any way. Camshaft will be custom ground to work with the heads and exhaust.

Let's have some fun with this and you guys can spend my money as you see fit. Anybody who wants to make negative comments about it, save it for your build thread. I get it. It's not going to be everyone's cup of tea. But it's mine and that's what I want to do. And GO!

View attachment 1716112358
Click to expand...
Porting of the intake manifold, exhaust manifolds and heads to their maximum abilities is the only route. OEM heads can go pretty far. I’ve seen 275 from the letter heads. This will be reduced significantly with the iron manifolds. Once you have the intake and heads ported, have them flow tested together to see not only how well they flow together, it’s how much and where the best air flow happens. Only from there can you even consider a camshaft.

Select your intake and exhaust manifolds wisely.
 
273 said:
I see displacement more as a powerband selecter, your gonna use a powerband of around 2500-3000 rpm from stall to shift points in a drag race. The 434 powerband probaby will operate about 300 rpm less then 408 which is about 400-600 less than a 360. Which depends on what's done to the heads you might make peak hp mid/high 4000 rpms so Eg.. a 2500-5000 to 2800 - 5300 rpm stall to shift.

Good thing it's gonna be strongest at all street rpms and probably only need highway gears, bad thing power is gonna drop off rapidly after peak hp.

3.55 28" tires @ 110 mphs = 4686 rpms
Click to expand...
Don’t view the size of the CID as a rpm selector. Doing so seriously inhibits any build. The ability of an engine to RPM is not due to stroke size but it is a function of valve train stability and cam lobe profile in conjunction with the ease of air in and out of the engine.

Any arguments to the contrary are stupid and ridiculous.
It’s already been proven many many times over, over a few decades already.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Don’t view the size of the CID as a rpm selector. Doing so seriously inhibits any build. The ability of an engine to RPM is not due to stroke size but it is a function of valve train stability and cam lobe profile in conjunction with the ease of air in and out of the engine.

Any arguments to the contrary are stupid and ridiculous.
It’s already been proven many many times over, over a few decades already.
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Did I say it's cause of stroke length, not it's ability to breath with similar top ends.
 
I'm kinda with you.. if you are gonna spend the money you might as well go with the best cubes per dollar... i am hoping to do a 360>426 myself when i find a block
 
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