Lets build a new engine.

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The funny part is 800 is small beans to my engine builder and most guys that run in my area.

I told my self last time, "when this engine lets go im done with MOPAR engines. Just gonna build a chevy and keep the hood closed..."

i should have listened to my self before i spent all this cash.

You know how fast a 20,000 dollar LS can be? I could be making 1,500 HP VS 800 HP....

chevy guys have it so good.....
 
Anything can make power with boost. Take a gen3 hemi and a decent turbo. Let er eat till it blows.
 
Cope said:
How the heck dose one even buy a race block?

Its not like i will find one down the street. I guess a small deposit then the owner takes it to a machine shop for inspection before i pay the remainder?
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Mine popped up about one hour from me and I knew of the guy that had it. When I bought it he signed a paper stating there would be a full refund if it didn't pass inspection.
 
Can look into getting a Ritter block, the newer castings are a ton better then the first. Getting closer to firing mine up but there's a few people running them, I'm looking to make over 1000hp on race and right at 1000hp fly on pump with twins

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Here are some block pics. If you don't mind a drive QMP in chatsworth Ca know these blocks very well and can set it up the way you want.

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Very nice!

Will that take an LA crank? I dont think i can return my crank and it was not cheep.

What heads fit those?


Can you PM me the cost of just the block?
 
Oh yeah it will take you crank, when you order it you can order 340 or 360 mains. Head can take any, I'm running magnums, will just need to drill the cooling passages for the head type you want to run, its nerve racking but not to bad. 59 or 48 degree, can go 50mm can if you want or regular size. Pm coming.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
Constant use over the 550 hp mark is generally regarded as the tipping point for a regular production 360 block. What your talking about building would be capable of exceeding that number by a large amount.
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A roots blower makes power differently than any other power adder. It is significantly harder on blocks and rods than anything else.

With say, 500 HP and 12 pounds of boost the block will have a very short life span. Miss on the tune up and block life gets reduced exponentially.
 
Cope said:


Lets say this guy is half way honest about what is really in the car, thats a good sign.

(My engine builder just sent me the link.)

Thoughts on this build?
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As I posted in a different place, a turbo is significantly easier on parts than a roots blower. People don’t believe it be like that, but it be!
 
Have you thought out of the box a bit, like a ex nascar series engine? Those are quite affordable for what you get, and have heads superior to any LA based head...
 
Right on with the Roots boost principle YR. That big mechanical air pump is operating at maximum efficiency right off of idle and the engine is getting extra time for maximum cylinder fill at low. It's like a fan as string cutting machine, the faster the fan spins, the smaller the pieces it cuts off. It's just an outright violent level of torque production that makes you wonder if you're about to drive over of the crankshaft.
 
You won't need a stroker... The 6-71 will give you all the tire shredding torque your car can handle.

I built my early Hemi with 8-1 compression and a mild Clay Smith cam so the car would be driveablle but have near instant torque.
 
You can do it and make it live with a four bolt main capable block. It may not a bad idea to keep your eye on Crower's clearance items, they have some pretty good cranks on there on occasion. Many are ground for Chevy rod journals and will give you more options in the rod and piston department. They usually have strokes in the 3-1/8 to 3-5/8 range.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
You can do it and make it live with a four bolt main capable block. It may not a bad idea to keep your eye on Crower's clearance items, they have some pretty good cranks on there on occasion. Many are ground for Chevy rod journals and will give you more options in the rod and piston department. They usually have strokes in the 3-1/8 to 3-5/8 range.
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The trick is finding a 4 bolt capable block that doesn’t require a second mortgage.
 
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