LF DISC BRAKE KIT/HELP 67 DART

[Redhelmet]

Hello everyone! I am new here, I recently bought my first car which is a 273 1967 Dodge Dart GT. I do not have much money as of right now but as for my first priority with the car I want to swap to disc brakes in the front.

I was hoping some of you could point me in the direction of an all bolt on kit where I could keep the original spindles, ball joints, etc. I don't really want to swap the a bigger bolt pattern because I wouldn't have enough money right now to get new wheels as of yet. But I may do that later.

Some of the kits I was looking into, which I will post links for, are Scarebird, Doctordiff, and SSBC, and maybe Strange.

1965-72 Dodge, Plymouth "A" body, with 10" drums Wheel Kit

W153 Front At The Wheels - Disc Brake Kit, Mopar

10.95" Front Disc Brake Kit (Stage 1)

Strange Pro Front Brake Kit Mopar Drum Brake Spindles 1965-1969 Barracuda & ...

I contacted scarebird for information etc but whoever was emailing me was very short with me and not too helpful so I am a little concerned with what I would be getting. If anyone on here can provide me more info or thoughts on these kits I linked I would appreciate it. Any other kit recommendations appreciated. I am hoping for a kit me and my dad could bolt on or work together on in a our own garage.

Let me know what you guys think of these kits! Also important that I could keep the stock wheels on my car for now after the swap until I buy new ones.

 

[hemi71x]

That first "kit" that you list, says it's for 10 inch drums, but if you look at their description pictures, it's showing a 9 inch Drum spindle.
Something isn't right with that ad, and or pictures.
Be wary, of that one.

Your car have 9 inch, or 10 inch brakes, on it currently?

 

[72bluNblu]

Get the DoctorDiff kit. Best out of everything you posted there. Specify the 5x4” bolt pattern and keep your current wheels. When you have the money later, just buy standard 73+ disk rotors and viola, you’ve upgraded to 5x4.5”. The DoctorDiff kit uses all 73+ mopar disk brake parts. He now offers the rotors with the 5x4” bolt pattern like the PirateJack kit started doing a year or two ago. But DoctorDiff is a great vendor, has a ton of mopar knowledge, and has great customer service. Which is better than can be said of your other choices. And unlike the other choices, you can buy all your standard replacement parts straight from any parts vendor with the exception of the 5x4” rotors, because the rest of it is OE replacement parts for a 73+ car.

 

[Redhelmet]

That first "kit" that you list, says it's for 10 inch drums, but if you look at their description pictures, it's showing a 9 inch Drum spindle.
Something isn't right with that ad, and or pictures.
Be wary, of that one.

Your car have 9 inch, or 10 inch brakes, on it currently?

Thanks for the reply! My car has the 10 inch brakes I am pretty sure I matched the spindle

That first "kit" that you list, says it's for 10 inch drums, but if you look at their description pictures, it's showing a 9 inch Drum spindle.
Something isn't right with that ad, and or pictures.
Be wary, of that one.

Your car have 9 inch, or 10 inch brakes, on it currently?

Thank you for the reply!

This is the spindle on my car I matched it and believe it is a ten inch drum. And thank you I definitely won't go with that one now.

 

[Redhelmet]

Get the DoctorDiff kit. Best out of everything you posted there. Specify the 5x4” bolt pattern and keep your current wheels. When you have the money later, just buy standard 73+ disk rotors and viola, you’ve upgraded to 5x4.5”. The DoctorDiff kit uses all 73+ mopar disk brake parts. He now offers the rotors with the 5x4” bolt pattern like the PirateJack kit started doing a year or two ago. But DoctorDiff is a great vendor, has a ton of mopar knowledge, and has great customer service. Which is better than can be said of your other choices. And unlike the other choices, you can buy all your standard replacement parts straight from any parts vendor with the exception of the 5x4” rotors, because the rest of it is OE replacement parts for a 73+ car.

Thanks so much for the reply.

I am liking that kit as well as it is the second most affordable for me lmao. However it says I do need to get the adjustments, ball joints, etc. Will that be major hard work and will me and my dad be able to do that stuff in my garage with normal tools? Also I am not sure if I would need to get a master cylinder. I will post screenshots of the options I think i need for the swap.

OH! Also I noticed the doctordiff kit doesn't mention or ask what size drum my car has currently. Does that not matter with that kit?

 

[72bluNblu]

Thanks so much for the reply.

I am liking that kit as well as it is the second most affordable for me lmao. However it says I do need to get the adjustments, ball joints, etc. Will that be major hard work and will me and my dad be able to do that stuff in my garage with normal tools? Also I am not sure if I would need to get a master cylinder. I will post screenshots of the options I think i need for the swap.

OH! Also I noticed the doctordiff kit doesn't mention or ask what size drum my car has currently. Does that not matter with that kit?


View attachment 1715756369View attachment 1715756370

So right now your drum car has the small upper ball joints and upper control arms. It doesn't matter what size drums your car has, since this kit will include a set of new 73+ disk brake spindles. Everything from the spindles out will be new, as well as the lower ball joints. You will need upper ball joint adaptors because the disk spindles use the larger, later upper ball joint. Your other option would be to use a set of large ball joint upper control arms. But that can be done later too, as you'll have the spindles either way. So you picked the right option there to get the adaptors, lower ball joints and bolts.

You did pick the 5x4.5" bolt pattern though, it looks like DoctorDiff only offers the 5x4" pattern in plain rotors. Although I'm sure you could call and ask.

I would suggest getting a new master cylinder since you'll be going to disk/drums. Your current master cylinder will have equal sized reservoirs , the disk master cylinders have a larger reservoir for the disks. The drum master cylinders should also have a residual pressure valve that has to be defeated to run disks, as the residual pressure valve for the drums can cause the disks to drag if not removed.

I would also suggest adding either a disk/drum combination valve or an adjustable prop valve of some kind. Your drum/drum system just has a distribution block, it routes line pressure equally to the back and front. The combination valve delays the rear brakes a touch, so they don't lock up before the disks.

Most of the stuff is pretty straight forward to replace, if you have a decent selection of sockets and wrenches up to 15/16" you should be able to handle it. If you don't have a pickle fork to break the taper loose between the ball joints and spindles you can rent those from a lot of auto parts stores. The master cylinder and combination valve will need some new brake lines though.

Cass (DoctorDiff) is also a great resource, he can answer a lot of questions about this as well as point out anything you may be forgetting as far as parts to get the project done go. Although I think most of it is covered here.

 

[Redhelmet]

So right now your drum car has the small upper ball joints and upper control arms. It doesn't matter what size drums your car has, since this kit will include a set of new 73+ disk brake spindles. Everything from the spindles out will be new, as well as the lower ball joints. You will need upper ball joint adaptors because the disk spindles use the larger, later upper ball joint. Your other option would be to use a set of large ball joint upper control arms. But that can be done later too, as you'll have the spindles either way. So you picked the right option there to get the adaptors, lower ball joints and bolts.

You did pick the 5x4.5" bolt pattern though, it looks like DoctorDiff only offers the 5x4" pattern in plain rotors. Although I'm sure you could call and ask.

I would suggest getting a new master cylinder since you'll be going to disk/drums. Your current master cylinder will have equal sized reservoirs , the disk master cylinders have a larger reservoir for the disks. The drum master cylinders should also have a residual pressure valve that has to be defeated to run disks, as the residual pressure valve for the drums can cause the disks to drag if not removed.

I would also suggest adding either a disk/drum combination valve or an adjustable prop valve of some kind. Your drum/drum system just has a distribution block, it routes line pressure equally to the back and front. The combination valve delays the rear brakes a touch, so they don't lock up before the disks.

Most of the stuff is pretty straight forward to replace, if you have a decent selection of sockets and wrenches up to 15/16" you should be able to handle it. If you don't have a pickle fork to break the taper loose between the ball joints and spindles you can rent those from a lot of auto parts stores. The master cylinder and combination valve will need some new brake lines though.

Cass (DoctorDiff) is also a great resource, he can answer a lot of questions about this as well as point out anything you may be forgetting as far as parts to get the project done go. Although I think most of it is covered here.

Awesome thank you so much. Would I be fine as to buying the valve or master cylinder later and driving the car without them for a while? Also which master cylinder out of the options on the site would be right for my stock car? The two A body options say "power brakes" in the description unless that pertains only to the B/E bodies but im not sure if my car is manual but I think it is.

Also as for the pickle fork do you know what size that needs to be? And with the other option on the site which is for the "Add 4-wheel disc brake distribution block (+$85.00)" Would that be able to replace what my stock car would already have as a distribution block and be the better option than getting the combination valve? Or no because mine would still have drums in the back?

Sorry for my confusion this is my first time really getting into this with my first car. Appreciate all the help

 

[Dana67Dart]

This is just my 2 cents...

I recently bought my first car which is a 273 1967 Dodge Dart GT

Leave the drums on the front for now. Enjoy the car and then decide if you really need the disc front.

I am sure you will find MANY other things to spend money on on your car that will be more necessary.

Also if you want to simplify things in the future you cant go wrong with buying year correct parts, easier to remember what you have when you need replacement parts in a few years.

THAT being said the 73+ swap is fairly easy and with the Dr. Diff rotors (and hubs I presume) being available in 5x4 and 5x4.5 swapping to BBP down the road is easy.

As to complexity and backyard mechanics skills and ability for this swap. I would say it it very do-able. there are some idiosyncrasies with the swap you may encounter, sway bar mounts, caliper orientation, flexible brake line, proportioning valve / distro block (yes you have to have a Disk / drum version), Master cylinder (yes you have to change it to a Disc / Drum version)

Now mind you A LOT of these parts are over the counter parts at the parts store, the nice thing about buying from DR. Diff is the kit form and the help should you need it from Cass.

 

[Dana67Dart]

1962-1976 Mopar A B E Body Duster Charger Cuda Disc Brake Conversion...

A little far from you but...

 

[72bluNblu]

Awesome thank you so much. Would I be fine as to buying the valve or master cylinder later and driving the car without them for a while? Also which master cylinder out of the options on the site would be right for my stock car? The two A body options say "power brakes" in the description unless that pertains only to the B/E bodies but im not sure if my car is manual but I think it is.

Also as for the pickle fork do you know what size that needs to be? And with the other option on the site which is for the "Add 4-wheel disc brake distribution block (+$85.00)" Would that be able to replace what my stock car would already have as a distribution block and be the better option than getting the combination valve? Or no because mine would still have drums in the back?

Sorry for my confusion this is my first time really getting into this with my first car. Appreciate all the help

You'll need the master cylinder and combination valve before driving the car, the brakes will not function properly without them.

I like the 15/16" master cylinder, it give better pedal feel and a higher line pressure. If you look at the description it says "all A-bodies" and then "B/E with power brakes". B/E bodies with manual brakes used a firewall reinforcing plate, that's why manual brake B/E is listed separately.

The pickle fork I use the most is typically the "middle one" in the kits that contain 3, that should be around 15/16" in most kits. The smaller one (usually around 11/16") can be helpful for tie rod ends though.

You don't want to add a distribution block for rear disks if you plan to keep your drums in the back. Basically that's what you already have. If you want to run disk/drum, you want a combination valve or an adjustable proportioning valve.

 

[DartGTDan]

I put SSBC front discs on my '71 Dart GT about 15 years ago. My car has the factory installed 5 on 4" (sbp) 8 3/4" rear end, which is why I chose SSBC kit. It was expensive, but very complete and I'd use them again.

My car runs 14" X 5 1/2" factory Rallye wheels up front (15" X 7" WheelVintiques Rallye wheels out back). Based on SSBC's claim, I tried to use factory 14" X 5 1/2" steel wheels, but they did NOT fit.

 

[Redhelmet]

Thank you so much everyone for the replies! I decided to go with the doctor diff kit! If I have any issues with installs I will be back here lmao. I didn't realize I could get the rotors plain and still be fine I am going with the plain 5x4 and new master cylinder and the valve. Thanks again everyone.