Likely 383 swap-parts advice requested

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txstang84

txstang84

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Hey y'all, I'm in the process of buying a 383/727 from another member and would like to drop it in my '72 Scamp. It'll probably be taken down and blasted so I can fix up some body issues too. Some other notables would be swapping in an 8 3/4 with 323 SG (staying with rear drums for now) and swapping on some KH front discs. I like the look of the stock ralley wheels for right now, but I might swap to Mustang Bullitt wheels later as I'll have a full spare set eventually.

This is gonna be a bit of a slow moving process, and I'll likely post up changes/progress to my "not really a restoration" thread. I guess I put this up here to solicit some advice on what parts would work well for a cruiser reliable enough to drive everyday. The car will retain a/c, p/s but will have manual brakes.

I'm already running 2.5" duals with an X pipe, so apart from headers/manifolds, I really shouldn't need much there. I know I'll need a new disc brake m/c and proportioning valve for my front disc swap. Also debating which front sway bar kit to use...I've heard the Addco is a pos, but I'd like some folks to weigh in nonetheless.

Any fruitful advice is welcome...

I'd like about 350-400hp and I'm sure that's more than do-able with a well tuned 383. I'm not looking to tear the skins off every time I take off from a stop light, but a good performer all the same.
 
I'm doing a 400/727/3.23/1971 Duster now. Same boat as you, a slow moving project.
I went with the Schumacher swap kit and torque strap. The headers are A body headmen headers. Done with instructions from BBD.com.

So far, the parts in use now are a electric choke TQ, Holley's Street Dominator, MP distributor fired by a Summit racing box. A summit aluminum rad is also there, BUT it doesn't allow the stock viscous fan enuff room. No solution as of yet. But again, it may not stay.
I'll be looking into a Paxton or equal later on.
Cam size will be smallish as not to NEED a converter change… for now.
 
As far as a 400HP parts list, MoPar Muscle did a 383/400, 400HP build a while back with a really mello cam, M1 single and a large TQ, headers.
 
rumblefish360 said:
As far as a 400HP parts list, MoPar Muscle did a 383/400, 400HP build a while back with a really mello cam, M1 single and a large TQ, headers.
Click to expand...

It was a 9.2/1, .030" over 383, stock 906's, 3 angle valve job. M-1 intake, 950 HP Holley, 1-7/8" headers I believe. Stock rocker gear, and it broke 400 HP with the stock Magnum cam grind. A big hydraulic Comp stick made a bunch more power.
 
txstang84 said:
Hey y'all, I'm in the process of buying a 383/727 from another member and would like to drop it in my '72 Scamp. It'll probably be taken down and blasted so I can fix up some body issues too. Some other notables would be swapping in an 8 3/4 with 323 SG (staying with rear drums for now) and swapping on some KH front discs. I like the look of the stock ralley wheels for right now, but I might swap to Mustang Bullitt wheels later as I'll have a full spare set eventually.

This is gonna be a bit of a slow moving process, and I'll likely post up changes/progress to my "not really a restoration" thread. I guess I put this up here to solicit some advice on what parts would work well for a cruiser reliable enough to drive everyday. The car will retain a/c, p/s but will have manual brakes.

I'm already running 2.5" duals with an X pipe, so apart from headers/manifolds, I really shouldn't need much there. I know I'll need a new disc brake m/c and proportioning valve for my front disc swap. Also debating which front sway bar kit to use...I've heard the Addco is a pos, but I'd like some folks to weigh in nonetheless.

Any fruitful advice is welcome...

I'd like about 350-400hp and I'm sure that's more than do-able with a well tuned 383. I'm not looking to tear the skins off every time I take off from a stop light, but a good performer all the same.
Click to expand...
Just pointing this out but Mustang wheels use a 5x4.5 bolt pattern, the K-H brakes are SBP of 5x4. You could convert to the BBP of 5x4.5 front brakes, sell the K-H brakes and still have money left over. Just saying.
 
1970Duster said:
Just pointing this out but Mustang wheels use a 5x4.5 bolt pattern, the K-H brakes are SBP of 5x4. You could convert to the BBP of 5x4.5 front brakes, sell the K-H brakes and still have money left over. Just saying.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I guess I should've clarified that statement-I want to stick with the KH brakes for right now, but eventually I will swap to BBP and roll some bigger wheels...I have two of them and will have a full set in the near future when I slap on a set of 17x10.5"s on my Mustang :)
 
txstang84 said:
Yeah, I guess I should've clarified that statement-I want to stick with the KH brakes for right now, but eventually I will swap to BBP and roll some bigger wheels...I have two of them and will have a full set in the near future when I slap on a set of 17x10.5"s on my Mustang :)
Click to expand...


There is a modification that allows you to use LBP wheels with the factory Kelsey Hayes 4 piston caliper. You use Mustang rotors. The entire process with very detailed information is right here on FABO.
 
So, I'm looking around and it looks like the only commonplace pistons available for 383s are the TRW style 2315s with no valve reliefs (boo), KB flat tops, or KB domes...

Am I correct in assuming I'll have to deck the block to hit zero with all of these?
 
Wrong stroke...the part number and description there shows 3.75" stroke...trying not to buy another crankshaft :)

They are pretty though, and I can't say I wouldn't enjoy having a short deck 426
 
txstang84 said:
Wrong stroke...the part number and description there shows 3.75" stroke...trying not to buy another crankshaft :)

They are pretty though, and I can't say I wouldn't enjoy having a short deck 426
Click to expand...
Ross can/will make a set of pistons for you if you want.
 
Not a doubt in my mind-but if they're not off the shelf slugs, price goes up. Not saying I wouldn't like to have a set of Ross slugs...just not so sure if I need to pay that much for pistons. I'll figure it out when I dig into the engine and decide which direction I wanna go with it.

Sorry if I'm coming off wrong, just still sizing up what all I need.
 
I totally understand. I kick myself in the *** for not going with the Late 80s/early 90s LA 360 Roller block over my 340. The only thing that kind of makes up for it is that 1: I paid next to dirt for my 340 block ($50) and 2: I didn't know about the LA Roller blocks until after I had my 340 and was starting the build for it.
 
I gotta admit I did think about going with a 5.9 Magnum swap, but I ran across a good deal for the 383/727, and there was a part of me that really wanted a big block for a long time. And I'd probably spend about the same building either one the way I want, so why not get some more cubes in the process? :D

My initial desire/goal for the engine/drivetrain is to have about 9.5~10.1:1 CR, zero-decked, COMP 270, 272 purple shaft, lunati 262/268 Voodoo-somewhere in that vicinity, long tubes, or tri-y's, hook them into my existing 2.5" duals, RPM or similar intake, probably about 2400-2700 stall, 355 gears, etc etc.

Thoughts?
 
You could always drop the compression down to 8.5 and run a super/turbo charger. That will give you LOTS of power and nothing like a forced induction big block.
 
...this is also true. I had a Vortech S trim on a mild 5.0 in my Mustang...basically a cammed stock long block with headers...very much fun when under boost. And you get free impeller noise.
 
The 383 should act in a similar way since it is also a large bore short stroke engine.
Ford's 302 is a 4.00 X 3.00? Correct?
The 383's stroke is 3.38 & 4.25 IIRC
(tired tonight)

My 400 just has a bigger bore. I'd like to supercharge it.
 
All things equal a 383 will stomp a 360. My opinion and observations.
 
You called it correctly fish-4" bore x 3" stroke in a Ford 302...that car is getting worked on as well...will be getting a new 4.6 DOHC engine with a single turbo. I just haven't decided whether to go 72 or 76mm impeller :D

sr: I kinda figured equal builds would be a clear cut difference between the two, I just gotta figure out exactly how much manners I want it to have. I guess the best way to figure out my goals, in this case, is to define what all I don't want to heavily upgrade. I'll install some subframe connectors to stiffen things up of course, but I doubt there would be much in the way of significant suspension upgrades apart from installing sway bars front and rear, new leafs, appropriately sized torsion bars, and new bushings. The furthest I would really wanna go would be caltracs.

One of the guys I work with just recommended go with a more urban setup...pump gas friendly (89 octane) I think is what he was aiming at.
 
Brilliant! Thanks for the input daisy! I was looking at the Schumacher mount/header kits on their website the other day-that's probably the direction I'll wind up going. I am a little curious about the valve clearance and a couple other details.

Did you have the block decked to "0"?
How much p/v clearance did you have?
How do you have the cam degreed?
Any port/bowl work?
Any other recommendations based on your experience thus far? (gears, stall, other)
 
Ok, so I've got some ideas in regard to how I'd like to fill up the block...how about water pump housing? The seller tells me that the block might not have the "right" housing on it now. My guess is he means it faces the driver side. This would be a relatively easy fix I would imagine...just get a different (a) radiator, or (b)water pump housing

I'm pretty much sold on the Schumacher mount/header setup, so no real qualms there...

I'd like to retain a/c since the recipient vehicle will have the pieces for it. Any roadblocks you guys can think of, or suggestions you may have?
 
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