Likely 383 swap-parts advice requested

-
So, I'm at a bit of a loss here-what kind of water pump housing do I need to drop a 383 in my Scamp? I'm guessing the driver side outlet isn't really a problem as long as I'm using the correct radiator-could someone out there running a B engine take a few pictures of their engine/radiator or maybe some part numbers for what I should start to source for this swap?

Any assistance is greatly appreciated.
 
Wouldn't a factory big block a body housing be what your looking for? 68/69 dart/barracuda should be the one your looking for. You can also order the radiator for one of those as well, it should bolt right in.
 
That's just the thing-I can't seem to find one specifically for a 68-69 383 Dart...I can find the water pump, but not the housing. So, I'm not terribly sure if they were left or right side outlet. Regardelss, I'll be buying either a new radiator or a new water pump housing...the seller of the engine said it's a left hand outlet (engine isn't delivered to me yet)...and probably not the right one for my app.
 
SOmeone out there makes this in aluminum, ether side outlet. 440 source.com?
 
Just looked there too-$100 for the housing/pump combo. Just gotta get all the attaching hardware. I know I'm in for quite a bit of spending to get this thing dropped in the car.

Schumacher, 440 Source, Summit...sheesh...and that's just the engine and tranny! I still have a ton of body work to do as well.
 
I got the 440 Source WP and housing. Bit of a shock that it came with no bolts or gasket considering the pic showed it assembled as a set. Once I got it installed, it ran great for about 500 miles, then the impeller started scraping the back of the housing. Pulled it twice, the pump was still solid with no wobble. Wound up having to file down the impeller blades a bit and using 2 gaskets to get clearance. 440 Source recommends using their "thick" .040 gasket since the clearances are so tight. I needed .060 to stop the god awful grinding noise.
 
I've been reading a ton of threads on here, and from the looks of it, unless I want to spend a ton of money on pistons, my choices are pretty much limited to KB flat tops, KB domes, or SpeedPro forged with no valve reliefs. I'd like to run enough cam to get a good lope going, and looking at running a 23-2500 stall. The car will be occasional street driven (2-3 times/week), and possibly taken on longer trips...I'd like to drive it down to my Dad's house (360 miles) so he can see in person what all I've done to it since he gave it to me...I can send him pictures all day, but until you lay eyes on it..well, you guys get the idea-going off track here-sorry.

Anyway, here's my ideas so far, please correct me if I'm wrong-constructive criticism is welcome...even some ribbing. :D

Pending block condition, bored + 030"
Would like to get 9.5:1 CR
Would like to run one of the following cams:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-23-710-9/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-720555-10/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-689521/

...or something similar-would like to run hydraulic roller though. I'm also looking at the roller tip rockers from PRW...moving on to heads:

Currently, the engine is wearing some 250 castings, which unless my guess is wrong, they are open chamber. I'd really like to avoid using them as they would shoot my plans for close quench all to hell, unless I find some pistons that come out of the deck about 060. I bought a set of 516s off one of the members here, and they're currently at the machine shop being surfaced and having a couple broken studs removed, but I need to find a set of valves to drop in there as they are the small exh heads. I figure I could use the 1.74s out of the 250 heads as long as they're serviceable unless you guys have other fruitful suggestions. I know the guides will have to be cut down to run any of those cams listed above, and that's fine...I'm sure they'll probably need new guides anyway.

...or, I've also thought about the 440 Source Stealth heads...already built, ready for bigger cams. I've read though, they require new locks/retainers to be reliable, and one would be well-served to blend the bowls a little and clean up the seats before just bolting them on.

For induction, I'd like to run an Edelbrock RPM; I've used that manifold on several different engine builds, and it's never failed to impress. I've also read the Torker isn't a bad choice-what it gives up on the low end is made up on the top end, and it's shorter so lends a little more to hood clearance. The carb-at least for the time being-would be the 600cfm Summit carb I'm currently using on my 5.2. It seems to run fine and has yet to give me any problems. I'm sure it would require some jetting, but I have a kit for that.

Distributor...I suspect a stock one for any 383/400 would work just fine, and they are available at the local parts store for all of $55 outright for the electronic remans. I see no point in spending 4 times that much unless there's truly a tangible benefit to running something like a Mallory/MSD/Pertronix. On MP dizzys, I've read a couple places they have a little too quick of advance curve, so that would only worsen potential for detonation. Please correct me if I've been led astray on this idea.

Headers: I was figuring on getting the Schumacher tri-ys since I'll be ordering the engine mounts and torque strap from them anyway...and my existing 2.5" exhaust ought to fit the bill nicely as I'm not looking to make more than about 400-450 fwhp.

The trans is a 727 (obviously) I picked up with the engine, and as mentioned, I'm not opposed to using about 2500 stall-any recommendations as to mfr's to steer clear of?

Rear end: I've got an 8 3/4 housing, and recently acquired a 741 SG pumpkin with 3.23s...I'll swap to 3.55 or possibly 3.73s depending on how I feel later, but it'll definitely get shorter cogs.

I know I'll also need some better suspension parts front and rear, and plans are in work for that as well...I was thinking Just Suspension's 1.02" torsion bars, and MP SS leafs...maybe caltracs, and certainly weld in subs.

Ok, fire away y'all...
 
All sounds good so far but I'd put an overdrive tranny in it for the distance/street driving needs you're talking about. This link will set you up for putting in a 200r4 in there.


[ame]http://www.wilcap.com/426350.PDF[/ame]

http://www.wilcap.com/downloads.html

That's assuming you don't mind using a GM tranny in a Mopar.
 
I don't specifically have issue using a 200R4 in my car-just wondering what all else I need to buy/modify to make that setup work. I've read on a few different threads that floorpan mods were needed, then on others that no mods were needed to the floors. The obvious things I'd need would be:

transmission
adapter plate
modified starter
flywheel
torque converter
modified driveshaft
x-member
shifter
speedo cable

Depending on how long I take on this project, it may wind up getting one, it may not...
 
I don't specifically have issue using a 200R4 in my car-just wondering what all else I need to buy/modify to make that setup work. I've read on a few different threads that floorpan mods were needed, then on others that no mods were needed to the floors. The obvious things I'd need would be:

transmission
adapter plate
modified starter
flywheel
torque converter
modified driveshaft
x-member
shifter
speedo cable

Depending on how long I take on this project, it may wind up getting one, it may not...
Mopar To Ya has a thread about installing one into his Dart, although his is a small block and yours is a big block, the idea is the same.
 
Well, I finally got the engine out of the bed of my pickup this evening...broke a bolt off in the block, and bent one of the arms on the engine stand, so it's sitting on the floor for now. I did get one of the heads off though. Surely though, the engine needs a full rebuild. It has a healthy ring ridge...I haven't measured it yet, but if I were a betting man, I'd say it might need to go .040" over to clean up completely.
 
Hey y'all, I should be going to the shop to take a look at my 516 heads here in a couple days, and I found a couple sets of Ferrea valves that look promising (or possibly Milodon Street Stainless)...sizes 2.08/1.74. Now, I've never really been good with valvetrain buildup, I've usually just bought heads assembled, and went from there. If you guys have some suggestions of which springs, retainers, and locks would be good for a street/strip 383 that will likely never seen above 6,000 rpm. I want to build it with longevity and reliability in mind but still be able to make good power up around 5,500, so if I'm off here, please correct my thought process.
 
Ferrea valves are great! I use them all the time and had them put in my rebuilt X heads and have them in my Edelbrock heads.
 
So what kinda springs and hardware would you recommend for a hydraulic roller like one of the profiles above (about .530-.550")?
 
-
Back
Top