Lost Frost plugs

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Right you are. Sorry for the misinformation. I corrected my post. I either need to build more engines or not rely on my memory as much. LOL tmm


No problem.

I had to go look myself before correcting you so I didn't make a mistake also. :banghead:
 
At your request.. lol

If there was water, why didn't the ice go up instead of forcing the plugs out..

I realize that it is now a moot point but I like to understand the whys....

IIRC Water freezed from the surface down,, the frozen surface forms a dam,, the rest of the water can't push up,, so it pushes out..

I've had to replace dozens of popped frost plugs,, from both auto and marine, (some people think saltwater cooled engines won't freeze,, they do)..

We never pulled every engine because it wasn't practical, cuz you'd get a dozen or more at a time.. I would estimate 85% of the engines we just replaced the popped plugs, then visually or "feel" check the others, replacing as nec., then pressure test the cooling system,, they survived and lived for many years,, the others,, would have evident probs as described in the very first posts..

Folks around here, weren't always as diligent about antifreeze when these cars came out.. and we seldom get below zero weather for more than 3 or 4 days

my .02,,
replace the frost plugs
fill with water,, check for water in oil, spin the engine with sp plugs out.
install plugs and fire it up.
cross your fingers..
if it's cracked your gonna find water somewhere
if it's not,, good karma man..

hope it helps

PS,, after running it,, take the sp plugs out,, wait till it's time to refire,, then spin it, hoping for no water..

It would be a good idea to drain and save the the oil,, leave the drain plug out,, with a container to catch any water, if it's gonna leak..
 
We are very disheartened.. we worked on it for a 3 hours yesterday. We just don't have the heart to pull the engine again..
 
We are very disheartened.. we worked on it for a 3 hours yesterday. We just don't have the heart to pull the engine again..


Then take a break and walk away for a while and thing about it. when you get in the mood, then go back and fix it... No hurries. This is a hobby, no need to stress out over it. 8)
 
We are very disheartened.. we worked on it for a 3 hours yesterday. We just don't have the heart to pull the engine again..

This sucks I know, but unfortunately Ian, you are probably going to have to.

It really might be best in the long run to pull it and replace all of the larger ones and inspect everything real good.
 
Look at it like this. Pretend your other choice to pull the engine is a 2014 Toyota mini van. Then be happy about the one you're actually pulling.
 
When rebuilding my engines for racing, I never bother pulling the plugs out after the first re-build; I keep the fluids clean, don't use straight water for coolant (this is rally, not circle track) and thus avoid rust, and don't worry about anything getting in there after the first go-around. I suspect the prior post presenting the same idea was in regards to race enigne rebuilds every season or more often.

Smartest dude on this forum. He gets it. J.Rob
 
We used Loctite on the block machining line that I was responsible for. It made a huge mess eventually that maintenance had to go in and clean regularly. If we didn't need loctite in the core plugs, then they wouldn't have done it. They would have saved alot of money to remove those stations from the line.

I would use loctite or some sealer on the cup plugs.


Yup--the OEM's figured it out long before I did. Loctite has SEALING properties, especially the sleeve retainer I like to use. Silicone is SLIPPERY. Some people just can't use logic. J.Rob
 
Yup--the OEM's figured it out long before I did. Loctite has SEALING properties, especially the sleeve retainer I like to use. Silicone is SLIPPERY. Some people just can't use logic. J.Rob

4 pages debating the ins and outs of a simple frost plug tutorial is absolutely retarded. J.Rob
 
This sucks I know, but unfortunately Ian, you are probably going to have to.

It really might be best in the long run to pull it and replace all of the larger ones and inspect everything real good.

I would jsut pull it and replace them all.

It's too difficult to change them all in the car, especially the ones in the rear of the block where the trans bellhousing bolts to. :violent1:

Is it worth frying your engine over a couple of freeze plugs?????

It's not what you want to hear, but it's the best advice that I could give you. :sad10:
 
This was / is very troubling. We really have no idea what caused this to happen and I suspect, we never will.

We stopped working on the car and did something else. There is always work to be done around the house.

We discussed what was said in this thread as well of what we received in PMs. We are very please that we rec'ed many opinions. Thank you all.

If we pull the engine out, getting what we need done by graduation would be impossible. We are on too tight of a schedule. If the engine block was fu*ked, that would it it for us this year.

We felt we had nothing to lose by moving forward.

We tried to put in metal freeze plugs. Impossible due to the location of the headers. If we took the headers off the engine, there still wouldn't be any room.

We went to talk to an engine builder. He gave us 2 temp plugs and gave detailed instructions on how to install / tighten them. He then came over today ...we filled the cooling system and pressurized it to 22 pounds and left it...about a half hour later, it was still at 22 pounds. It sounds like we avoided a speeding bullet.

We are still trying to decipher the wires under the hood taking into consideration the removing of the external ballast and replacing it with one internal to the coil. I think we are almost there and I will be cutting a lot of the extraneous wiring off the harness tomorrow.

Not sure if we are out of the woods completely but Calum and I will sleep a bit better tomorrow.

Thank you again. All of you were of tremendous help to us.

Calum and Ian.
 
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