Low dollar torque strap

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jomoper

jomoper

Mope or Nope
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While I had the engine sitting on the K member I noticed a pre drilled hole in the motor mount. since it pretty much lines up with the mounting ear on the block I got an idea to make a cheap torque strap with an eye bolt and a longer bolt for the motor mount. After a quick trip to the local hardware store here's what I came up with -. A longer grade 8 bolt $1.05 with a short length of tube over it (which I already had ). And a J bolt (eye bolt would not fit) for around $2.00 . I adjusted the bolt so that the engine can move about 1/8" or so before it contacts the J- bolt . I'm hoping this will preserve my engine isolators although I don't really think with My mild 360 it's going to be all that much of an issue.
 

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why the slack ? I'm pretty sure the instructions with my strap said to pre load the isolating bushing so the motor wouldn't "jump" into the strap .
 
Ya I may wind up removing it if it transfers too much engine noise to the chasis . That's why I left a gap to allow the isolator pads to do their job. I might also use some rubber washers to further isolate any engine vibrations from being transferred to the k-member.
I guess I'll find put how it works when I fire up the engine.
 
Not trying to hijack, but is it a common problem for that type of rubber isolator to break easily? That's the same type I used in my swap and I've managed to break 2 in the past 3 months.
 
UOP said:
Not trying to hijack, but is it a common problem for that type of rubber isolator to break easily? That's the same type I used in my swap and I've managed to break 2 in the past 3 months.
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If your talking about the motor mounts that style breaks often. They do now make a poly lock motor mounts that isn't suppose to break (but they ain't cheap!) and this is a part of the reason why you see people switch to the spool mount style.
 
1970Duster said:
If your talking about the motor mount that style breaks often. They do now make a poly lock motor mount that isn't suppose to break (but they ain't cheap!) and this is a part of the reason why you see people switch to the spool mount style.
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Check your links, they both just go to a basic ebay search. I do know which mounts you're talking about though. I'm afraid to use them, or solid mounts, for fear of breaking the single rear tab on the block.
 
:cheers:
UOP said:
Check your links, they both just go to a basic ebay search. I do know which mounts you're talking about though. I'm afraid to use them, or solid mounts, for fear of breaking the single rear tab on the block.
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Some people love them but I went spool mount.
As far as those links I'm not doing them, they have just been randomly appearing.
 
73AbodEE said:
we use to use short pieces of chain
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Me too.
Just leave about a link of slack, so under normal driving it doesn't make noise through the frame.
Had to do that with my Roadrunner 440 HP motor, cause it would rip brand new mounts apart on the first launch
When the chain tightened, the amount of noise through the frame was surprising.
 
I used a piece of chain and a turn buckle style adjuster to take out the slack on my 340/4spd Duster back in the 80's and I don't remember any transference of vibration or noise to the frame?!?
 
Oh it was there, you just didn't care at that age just like me. :D



BrianT said:
I used a piece of chain and a turn buckle style adjuster to take out the slack on my 340/4spd Duster back in the 80's and I don't remember any transference of vibration or noise to the frame?!?
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73AbodEE said:
we use to use short pieces of chain
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With about one link of slack.. attached to 3/8 bolt hole on the drivers side head to a hole drilled thru k-member lip.. wrapped with elec tape. -to stop any rattles...

I forgot to attach it one particular time,, and as I got on it,- outta the driveway, (which is a turn), the engine torqued up,, which trapped the pitman arm, into the pipes just ahead of the collector ... couldn't straighten the wheels,, - hit my own fence post,, first major dent since I bought it new... sh**&^ ...

Use a torque strap of any kind... experience...
 
TrailBeast said:
Oh it was there, you just didn't care at that age just like me. :D
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Yeah, you're probably right. That car was a gear bangin', tire spinnin' pile o' rust, but it was a blast to drive!!! I used to run side by side with my buddy's big block auto Cuda, and he would get so pissed! Ah, good times...
 
I'd think that it would just bend the hook, a closed eye (welded or machined/cast) is a lot stronger
 
green1 said:
ain't gonna work, bubba. It needs some slack.
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If you take a good look at the Schumaker straps which is what I have because it was in stock and their poly lock mounts were on terminal back order , you will see they use a rubber isolater above and below the K member mounted end which you preload this cinch's the motor down real good and snug while preventing the vibration transfer mentioned by others , if you provide slack the biscuit is already pulling itself apart by the time the "strap" takes hold , granted the isolater does compress under load a little but it does so with resistance not free movement , rob a couple of rubber rings and washers from the trucks of your kids skateboard for the bottom of the J hook and you can do the same thing .
 
cannucky said:
If you take a good look at the Schumaker straps which is what I have because it was in stock and their poly lock mounts were on terminal back order , you will see they use a rubber isolater above and below the K member mounted end which you preload this cinch's the motor down real good and snug while preventing the vibration transfer mentioned by others , if you provide slack the biscuit is already pulling itself apart by the time the "strap" takes hold , granted the isolater does compress under load a little but it does so with resistance not free movement , rob a couple of rubber rings and washers from the trucks of your kids skateboard for the bottom of the J hook and you can do the same thing .
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What he said. Too much slack and the mount will tear. One full chain link of slack that is not gonna work. I run the schumaker strap snugged down tight, engine does not move at all, and no vibration due to the use of rubber bushings.

I used to run a chain hooked to the steering box bolt and rear motor mount bolt. Could not see it. I ran just a little bit of slack in it, and it was quiet, no rattles, and no broken mount.
 
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