Low peak oil pressure

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TT5.9mag said:
Does the relief valve move freely in the pump housing? That’s the next thing I’d check. Sounds like it’s stuck open. Then I’d pull the intake and prime it, watch for leaks around the lifters. If I saw nothing that worried me I’d be checking rod/mains clearance.
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I’ll for sure be checking the relief valve once the motor is out. I’m also guessing it’s not closing all the way. Checked main and rods already and they were good. Failed to check the relief when the pan was off, but not doing that in the car again. I’ll be checking bearings again either way while the motor is out.

I agree idle pressure is okay enough, but shouldn’t peak pressure be 75psi+ since I Installed the mopar high pressure spring? Plus this is on 20w50. Pressures have not changed since first startup so I’m not not suspecting bearing damage.

This is a 6-700+ hp build so it’s my understanding that I want more pressure.
 
I think I’d better loop the oil filter/cooler lines before pulling just in case it’s that easy, but I wouldn’t think a restriction would act this way.
 
Looped my oil lines and found 20psi. Seeing 75 at 5k rpm. Now I just have to narrow it down between the filter/housing and oil cooler.

Might still pull the motor to check everything out, but at least I have direction now.

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Filter and cooler were hitting 55psi.
Oil filter alone, 75 psi. Oil cooler alone, 75 psi.
I’m worried that if I hook everything back up it’s going to magically be at 75psi. Can oil systems get air bubbles? That doesn’t even make sense. The filter is on its side…
 
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Put everything back together, and good pressure at 75+ psi. Drove it a bit, got on it a couple times and oil pressure back down to 55-60max. At this point I have to assume the pressure relief in the pump is getting hung up.
 
You put it back together with or without the cooler and remote mount kit?
 
Sorry, I plumbed the filter and cooler back into the system just as it was to begin with. At that point my pressure was 75+ for about 5 miles, then fell back down to 55-60.

I did not pull the motor yet. Just switched oil lines around
 
Are you using a windage tray? Idk, maybe I’m way off but I’m thinking windage.
 
Could be windage if it’s a little too full. Or maybe I’m crazy but a 15 psi swing in pressure as the engine gets heat soaked doesn’t seem out of the realm of possibility to me. I’m not too convinced you have a problem. What happens if you drive it the same 5 miles or so with no cooler and no remote filter mount?
 
I did loose an engine (468 BBC) because of the restriction caused by a remote filter mount a few years ago. Even after I cleaned it up and radiused all of the flow path the alignment was still terrible and starved the bearings. I won’t use them any more.

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Have you drained and CLOSELY inspected the oil for metallic debris?
 
TT5.9mag said:
Could be windage if it’s a little too full. Or maybe I’m crazy but a 15 psi swing in pressure as the engine gets heat soaked doesn’t seem out of the realm of possibility to me. I’m not too convinced you have a problem. What happens if you drive it the same 5 miles or so with no cooler and no remote filter mount?
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Maybe I don’t have a problem. I have been expecting 70ish hot psi at higher rpm. If 55-60psi is enough then I guess I’m good?

FYI my oil temp seems to stay at around 90-210 once warmed up.
 
TT5.9mag said:
I did loose an engine (468 BBC) because of the restriction caused by a remote filter mount a few years ago. Even after I cleaned it up and radiused all of the flow path the alignment was still terrible and starved the bearings. I won’t use them any more.

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And I know the design on mine is pretty similar, and also cleaned up a bit. Since I do need to run an external filter is there a housing you recommend for better flow?
 
turbovan said:
And I know the design on mine is pretty similar, and also cleaned up a bit. Since I do need to run an external filter is there a housing you recommend for better flow?
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Man I wish I had an answer for you but I don’t. I try like hell to just use an oil filter on the block where ever I can now. I avoid the remote kits like the plague.
 
TT5.9mag said:
Man I wish I had an answer for you but I don’t. I try like hell to just use an oil filter on the block where ever I can now. I avoid the remote kits like the plague.
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If you are going to use a remote filter the best solution is to block off the filtered oil return in the block, thread the other return gallery and take the plug out of the other one.

That eliminates all the adapters and crapola like that.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
If you are going to use a remote filter the best solution is to block off the filtered oil return in the block, thread the other return gallery and take the plug out of the other one.

That eliminates all the adapters and crapola like that.
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Any chance you have a photo of a block this is done on?
 
mosleyme said:
I use the Canton 90 swivel style.

22-595 Alum Remote Oil Filter Adapter For Ford and Mopar 90 Deg Rotating

Major differences, the Canton is 90 swivel and uses 1/2" NPT.
The Clear view is straight and uses -12 ORB
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I’ll reply to that here since I messed up and posted it in the other thread. I dont like any of the adapters that turn 90 straight out of the block. And I certainly don’t like the banjo fitting on the canton. But I’ve never used it, or done any testing on one. If you are, and are happy with it that’s excellent.
 
turbovan said:
I thought we were talking about the actual external filter housing. My block is tapped and plugged.

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Nice thanks for the pic and clarification. I was talking about the adapter and you were talking about the actual filter housing. My concerns are similar though and if I ran one, after blocking and tapping the mount on the block, I would definitely be doing testing on whichever one I bought.
 
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