LSx Valiant Build. Take a look inside...

-
mosleyme said:
Congratulations you now have 22:1 steering ratio...
Click to expand...

Haha. Aww man, and here I was thinking I was slick. I've seen the borgeson box, as you mentioned not cheap. Will the arms cause any problems with hitting the oil pan do you think? My idler arm is dangerously close to the oil pan as it is.
 
LS1 ACE said:
Haha. Aww man, and here I was thinking I was slick. I've seen the borgeson box, as you mentioned not cheap. Will the arms cause any problems with hitting the oil pan do you think? My idler arm is dangerously close to the oil pan as it is.
Click to expand...

Arms are just longer. I have never heard of anyone using them on the manual box. I would check with FF first. If I had to guess I would think they are made for the larger spline only, and I think the older manual box is the smaller spline. Edit: OK I am wrong, they make them for both sizes.

http://www.firmfeel.com/fastrati_a.htm
 
magnumdust said:
What did those hooker swap headers look like? Doing a little searching i came across these swap shorties meant for 4wd chevy blazers. The #1 primary(if that is #1 on a chevy) appears to make a sharp curve for the collector and may clear the box.
Click to expand...

These are the hooker ones I tried.

ilcb39.jpg

http://www.jegs.com/p/Hooker-Headers/Hooker-LS-Cast-Iron-Exhaust-Manifolds/1918563/10002/-1

The link gives specifics to measurements. Are there any measurements available for the ones you posted? The angle does seem to be pretty good.
 
LS1 ACE said:
I'm not familiar with my current driveline angle but I just went out back and did some measuring for the crank bolt to K.

From top of K to center of crankbolt: 5.25"
From passenger side of frame to center of crankbolt: 13.75"
From driver's side of frame to center of crankbolt: 15.25"
Click to expand...

Looks perfect on position to me. TTI says 5.25" from center of crank to top of K member and 2.5" difference on two side measurements.

That said, you could get away with raising it a bit if your tranny tunnel allows. You may run into driveline angle issues or clearance issues. What tranny are you running? Can you move the motor and tranny up currently without running into the tunnel?

My first hemi had headers that I built with a mig welder. I had less room than you do, and made it work around the factory power steering box. It will work, you've just gotta take the time to do it. Not the most exciting thing to do.

I mounted the engine on a stand, mounted the k frame and steering box to the engine, and tacked the drivers side header together. I started with a cheap set of chinese shorty / mid headers from ebay, and bought some U bends and straights to complete what I needed.
 
Uhcoog1 said:
Looks perfect on position to me. TTI says 5.25" from center of crank to top of K member and 2.5" difference on two side measurements.
Click to expand...

Doh! 15.25" - 13.75" = 1.5" not 2.5"

Move it over 1/2"? 15.75" - 13.25" = 2.5"
 
Uhcoog1 said:
Looks perfect on position to me. TTI says 5.25" from center of crank to top of K member and 2.5" difference on two side measurements.

That said, you could get away with raising it a bit if your tranny tunnel allows. You may run into driveline angle issues or clearance issues. What tranny are you running? Can you move the motor and tranny up currently without running into the tunnel?

My first hemi had headers that I built with a mig welder. I had less room than you do, and made it work around the factory power steering box. It will work, you've just gotta take the time to do it. Not the most exciting thing to do.

I mounted the engine on a stand, mounted the k frame and steering box to the engine, and tacked the drivers side header together. I started with a cheap set of chinese shorty / mid headers from ebay, and bought some U bends and straights to complete what I needed.
Click to expand...

Without cutting up the car there is no more room in the tunnel for raising the drivetrain. I am running a 4L60E. I may consider trying my hand at welding a set if I decide to go the NA route. But I think that a custom turbo setup will yield better results...time to pick up a How To Weld for Dummies book.
 
mosleyme said:
Doh! 15.25" - 13.75" = 1.5" not 2.5"

Move it over 1/2"? 15.75" - 13.25= 2.5"
Click to expand...

I'm an amateur when it comes to driveline setup, but could that 1" of offset pose a real problem? Issues with deliverability, suspension geometry, binding, etc? Bc if the answer is a resounding no then I will stick with the turbo idea I've settled on.
 
mosleyme said:
Doh! 15.25" - 13.75" = 1.5" not 2.5"

Move it over 1/2"? 15.75" - 13.25" = 2.5"
Click to expand...

Thanks for the catch! ha I botched that one.

LS1 ACE said:
I'm an amateur when it comes to driveline setup, but could that 1" of offset pose a real problem? Issues with deliverability, suspension geometry, binding, etc? Bc if the answer is a resounding no then I will stick with the turbo idea I've settled on.
Click to expand...

you want to maintain no more than 3* working angle on each U joint (less than 2* is ideal). I'll let you do the math.
 
Uhcoog1 said:
you want to maintain no more than 3* working angle on each U joint (less than 2* is ideal). I'll let you do the math.
Click to expand...

Thanks, learning a ton from you guys. I'll check it out once I have the driveshaft setup!
 
glad you're making progress… keep tinkering with the headers, somethings gotta work. thanks for the pics!
 
Where did you get your fuel tank, I noticed the fuel pump mounted inside. Is this something you did or you bought it? If you did it, can you give up the parts list for it.

Thanks,
Mike
 
bguihan said:
Where did you get your fuel tank, I noticed the fuel pump mounted inside. Is this something you did or you bought it? If you did it, can you give up the parts list for it.

Thanks,
Mike
Click to expand...

Don't remember who it was, when I get a chance I will hunt around to figure it out but someone here used a (gasp) 69 Mustang tank in there a-body. Fit between the frame rails, and looked like due to it's being shallow there would be no trouble running tail pipes out the back. Did a hunt and found several different sources for Mustang tanks with efi pumps installed that were reasonably priced. The fellow I am thinking about worked for Fram.....and the car in question had a turboed import motor in it. Car was for sale not to long ago...perhaps 6 months or so?
 
inkjunkie said:
In regards to the fuel tank I mentioned above....pretty sure it was in this thread...

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=207424

towards the tail end of it I believe........Purists....enter at your own risk....don't say I did not warn you...
Click to expand...

interesting...


Tim and I also got the Tanks Inc. 1960's Ford Mustang EFI fuel tank installed and that decision gave us room for our water to air heat exchanger between the axle and fuel tank. We also added crossmembers on each side of the tank and that should also help stiffen the frame. The crossmembers are light and only add about 10 pounds to the rear of the car.

mustang%20tank%20%28Medium%29%20%28Small%29.jpg


lower%20supports%20%28Medium%29%20%28Small%29.jpg
Click to expand...
 
My tank is done in a similar fashion:
 

Attachments

  • P82A0236s.jpg
    70.2 KB · Views: 930
  • P82A0188s.jpg
    90.3 KB · Views: 945
  • DSC02319s.jpg
    46.8 KB · Views: 911
I called Rock Valley and they quoted 1100 for that setup! Not today. There has to be a better way. I don't really want to go the Mustang route because I like to have a spare tire.
 
bguihan said:
I called Rock Valley and they quoted 1100 for that setup! Not today. There has to be a better way. I don't really want to go the Mustang route because I like to have a spare tire.
Click to expand...

yea they aren't cheap. last time i called they quoted me $750. guess they went up a bit..lol

the rock valley is nice because it has a baffle or whatever you call it inside to keep fuel around the pickup when turning corners and hard acceleration with say a 1/4 tank of gas...


you can always buy the kit and put their efi pump set ups in your existing tank..
 
You could do an external fuel accumulator. That's what I did. Runs well down to an empty tank.

I like to keep 4-10 gallons in the tank for road racing though. I ran lean after a long sweeper going on to the straight with maybe 2-3 gallons in the tank. Pulled foot out, turned wheel straight, gtg in about 2 seconds.

My accumulator is a 1 quart fuel filter.

Topbrent made this diagram of my system:

null_zps368b6916.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top