Magnum 360 build. (HP/tq?)

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ParDaddy said:
Thru the hydraulic lifters, up the push rods is my understanding.. running the oil pump "should" give me oil up top ain't?
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Also on the backwards lifter, they are beveled/grooved the whole way around where the oil hole is.. I read to face them up?
 
I have 40psi oil on a manual gauge with the drill on high
 
ParDaddy said:
Yureka!! Motor shop neglected to replace the oil galley plug
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It's been 13 years since I put together that 360 LA with Magnum heads but from what I remember I didn't get oil to the rockers just from priming. Since you have roller lifters and don't need to break in the cam you could try running it without valve covers just long enough to confirm oil is getting up there. Just make some shields out of cardboard or other cheap disposable material to keep oil from splashing/dripping out.

How will you be tuning with the factory computer? Only asking because I don't have any experience with them lol. I have been able to tune the GM P04 ECM in my 2000 Buick with HPTuners but that's obviously not the same as Chrysler JTEC.
 
MopaR&D said:
It's been 13 years since I put together that 360 LA with Magnum heads but from what I remember I didn't get oil to the rockers just from priming. Since you have roller lifters and don't need to break in the cam you could try running it without valve covers just long enough to confirm oil is getting up there. Just make some shields out of cardboard or other cheap disposable material to keep oil from splashing/dripping out.

How will you be tuning with the factory computer? Only asking because I don't have any experience with them lol. I have been able to tune the GM P04 ECM in my 2000 Buick with HPTuners but that's obviously not the same as Chrysler JTEC.
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HPTuners does offer JTEC and JTEC+ support now.
 
fishmens67 said:
I'm going to go out on the limb and say you probably pulled things apart and read/learned how to put it together and make it work.
That's what I did, trial and error along the way. More success than failure.
I still have the original Motor's manual my dad bought me in 1975 when I was 13. We could drive during daylight at age 14 back then.
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I remember back in the 60 and 70, farm boys would drive farm trucks at the age of 12 to 15 to town to the grain elevators. I learned to drive a stick shift on a hillside hay field outside of Tupelo Mississippi back in 1965. I was 11.
That was right about the time I fixed my first engine. A 2 cycle Iron Horse mower with a magnesium mower deck. I found it under our house in the crawl space. Pulled it out, cleaned the plug. Pulled the carb apart and cleaned it. It only had an O ring for the bowl gasket and a fiber washer for the bottom of the bowl screw.
My dad came home from work and saw what I had done. He poured gas and oil mix in it, adjusted the carb fuel mixture screw and it started on about the 3rd pull. And the rest as they say is history.
Mowed with that thing for about 3 years after that.
 
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Jadaharabi said:
I remember back in the 60 and 70, farm boys would drive farm trucks at the age of 12 to 15 to town to the grain elevators. I learned to drive a stick shift on a hillside hay field outside of Tupelo Mississippi back in 1965. I was 11.
That was right about the time I fixed my first engine. A 2 cycle Iron Horse mower with a magnesium mower deck. I found it under our house in the crawl space. Pulled it out, cleaned the plug. Pulled the carb apart and cleaned it. It only had an O ring for the bowl gasket and a fiber washer for the bottom of the bowl screw.
My dad came home from work and saw what I had done. He poured gas and oil mix in it, adjusted the carb fuel mixture screw and it started on about the 3rd pull. And the rest as they say is history.
Mowed with that thing for about 3 years after that.
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Makes sense farm boys learned to drive at younger ages if they just had to drive around the farm and on back roads for the most part. I could drive a car when I was 10 but learning traffic laws and dealing with other drivers in a college town in PA? Heeelll naw!!
 
ParDaddy said:
Fresh rotating assembly. Fully balanced, Stock stroke, +.30 pistons rated 10.5-1 comp, .480/.480 hydraulic roller cam, PIE level 2 heads w/2.05 int valves, and the M1 Mopar Performance 4bbl intake... All in all, about $6k lol!
Just wondering what kind of horsepower and torque you guys think I'm looking at?

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Looks good, I would retard your cam 4 degrees and put a thermo-quad on top that spread bore intake(800cfm) from summit racing and use an HEI distributor for SBM. Drops right in, and easy wire hookup....your heads will flow well and put you at 440hp @ 5800 and about same in torque at the 4500rpm range. Good job!
 
Looks good, retard the cam 4 degrees. Your good heads will put you at above average 440hp@ 5800rpm and bout 450feet lbs of torque at 4500 rpm. Bet your heads will put you over the top in what your expectations are. and your cam will pull all the way thru the rpm range/= good fun driver. Good job!
 
The problem with a Summit TQ is what rods and jets come in what year model TQ?
 
You know me, I will clean it , disassemble it, put together again. And try it out on my engine first before sending it off.
 
4 posts in a row? Like random thoughts being blurted out…
LOL


A 1975 TQ could be OK. The amount of vacuum hook ups is one thing but the primaries might have drilled air holes in them. The later the year and added emissions equipment makes them less desirable for HP usage.
 
pittsburghracer said:
90% of the time I’m playing around out of boredom or laziness to do some work. I think if it came down to it 99.9% of us would enjoys each other’s company sitting down and having a few soda pops together
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Well all of us except the 273/318 guys ...not them ... Just kidding LOL! :lol: :poke:
 
MopaR&D said:
Makes sense farm boys learned to drive at younger ages if they just had to drive around the farm and on back roads for the most part. I could drive a car when I was 10 but learning traffic laws and dealing with other drivers in a college town in PA? Heeelll naw!!
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The first thing I learned to drive at 8 to 10 years old was my grandfather's 420 John Deere Bulldozer, then tractor then his 1/2 Ford truck with a stick. First time I dove the truck loaded with wood to the top of the cab. I popped the clutch and broke the rear drive shaft yolk. Lol
 
I have a engine close to the op build. Mine is a 2000 360 magnum block, stock crank, stock rods with arp rod bolts, stock bore with KB107 pistions, out of the box Trickflow heads, ported indy cylinder head single plane intake, holley 650 DP ported to flow close to 800 CFM, comp 555 solid lift cam, prw 1.6 roller rockers, Smith Brothers 3/8 oil through push rods, hooker 1-5/8 headers. 904 transmission. The engine is in my 91/ 96 dakota sport race truck. I have never weighed the trick yet. But I am guessing it weighs close to 3400 pounds with me in it. Going by my ET and speed. I think I am making close to 480 HP. The dakota has ran a best of 11.24 at 116.8 in the 1/4 and 7.15 at 96.7 in the 1/8 mile. All passes are made on 93 pump gas. The converter is not right for the truck, so if I ever get it pulled, I think it might have a 11.0 in it.
 
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