magnum manifolds/340 manifolds

-

ktcnn94

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 13, 2014
Messages
386
Reaction score
77
Location
WV
ok still trying to decide on exhaust options for 71 swinger with 318 auto. cant decide between headers or exhaust manifolds, Ive ran across some 360 manifolds and also some 340 manifolds, the 340 manifold casting #'s ck out but they have heat risers. I have not visually seen the 360's in order to ck the #'s on those, any way what numbers should I look for to be the best 340 or 360 and also magnum manifolds from the 90's? which magnum manifolds from the 90's will work on the dart. I may end up using long tubes but cant afford nor do I want to put big bucks in doug's or tti's so i'll probably use hookers if that route is chosen has anyone had any luck out of the hookers as far as fitment etc the hooker part number is 5901hkr I have power steering. rustyratrod suggested shorty headers and I don't mind using them but im unsure of how well the fit concerning where they seem to dump in the middle on both sides (at least the ones ive seen pics of) not sure how well the headpipes will clear on those. the engine is a stock 318 at the moment but will be refreshed with cam upgrade etc fairly soon. have edelbrock carb and performer intake on it now. the exhaust on it now is awful this is why im fixing it now as opposed to waiting until the engine build. I have researched and read and read and then read some more just looking for input, ideas and advice on the casting numbers from obviously experienced A body guys. thanks fella's
 
I sell the perfect compromise (I believe). For $320 plus shipping you get a 340 driver's manifold and a "machined" 360 magnum passenger manifold. Yes they will fit perfect in your car. I machine the 360 magnum so that the exit hole matches the 340 (2 1/4") so you get very equal flow. You can find and buy your own of course but the driver 340s are hard to find and sometimes expensive. The 360 magnum, if not machined, will not flow as efficiently as the 340 driver. But it's your car so you get to decide. You can see the casting numbers in the pics. I also sell the properly flared stub down pipes and adapter flanges for both manifolds, something you're going to have to buy and/or get made by someone. The 340 driver requires a very tight turn just above the torsion bar (see pic) and because of member's requests I have started making and selling this special piece (see pics). I only use mandrel bent tight radius pipe for this piece, something you can't get at the local muffler shop.
But I understand some members like to find their own parts at the parts yards so there you have the casting numbers you were looking for.

Pics are of my '69 Barracuda, 318 A Body. Good Luck, if you want more info simply ask......

treblig
 

Attachments

  • DSC03809.jpg
    30.2 KB · Views: 551
  • DSC03989.jpg
    49.6 KB · Views: 543
  • DSC03992.jpg
    52.5 KB · Views: 582
  • DSC04203.jpg
    36 KB · Views: 525
  • DSC03981.jpg
    44.6 KB · Views: 525
  • DSC03980.jpg
    43.2 KB · Views: 550
  • DSC03465.jpg
    34.7 KB · Views: 527
  • DSC03458.jpg
    38.1 KB · Views: 511
thank you sir for the response, looks like some pretty nice work. how much additional are the extra pieces your talking about and what about shipping to 25901.
 
thank you sir for the response, looks like some pretty nice work. how much additional are the extra pieces your talking about and what about shipping to 25901.


Shipping to WV is probably around $50-$55, shipping for these manifolds to NY or NH is usually $65. I also insure them for $350 so there's no loss in case of damage in shipping. The manifolds I sell are sand blasted, checked for damage, sprayed with high heat primer, top coated with high heat paint, heat cured at 150 degrees for 12 hours. The straight stub "properly flared" down pipes sell for $30 per side. The 340 driver requires a flat flare while the 360 magnum requires a bell flare and the adapter flanges (to bolt them up) are included. The "NEW" super tight radius 340 piece sells for $75. The $75 is a little high but I have to buy the adapter flange, buy the flared stub pipe, buy a section of 2 1/2" mandrel bent 180 pipe then cut and weld the whole thing together. If you had to buy all the parts yourself you spend more than $70 on the parts alone, without the welding and fitting. Here's an example of a fully welded 360 mandrel bent donut if you had to buy one, check the shipping. Evidently these aren't sold in the US fully welded!! Nobody sells a tighter radius than the one I buy (that I know of).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/171236251970?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


The only way I can break even on this 340 180 degree down pipe is to buy the donut and cut it into tree pieces so I don't lose money!! Again...you can't get this at any muffler shop without having to pay through the nose!!

thanks,
Treblig
 

Attachments

  • DSC04201.jpg
    32.7 KB · Views: 510
  • DSC04200.jpg
    32.4 KB · Views: 475
  • DSC04199.jpg
    40.6 KB · Views: 510
  • DSC04197.jpg
    33.5 KB · Views: 488
  • DSC04196.jpg
    31.7 KB · Views: 492
  • DSC04195.jpg
    31.9 KB · Views: 489
  • DSC04193.jpg
    33.4 KB · Views: 502
  • DSC04192.jpg
    30.2 KB · Views: 500

How do they fit and will they be scraping on the pavement when you hit a small dip in the road?? Everybody says that the cheap headers don't fit well at all and hang very low, don't know myself, only what I have read here on FABO??

treblig

Doug's headers and TTi are the only headers really designed to fit the a bodies. So no these don't hit the ground.
 
There a dyno comparison between 318/360/340 magnums, shorties and long tube Somewhere on here .
from what I remember there was much of difference between manifolds and shorties weren't much better.
obviously long tube headers were the winner
 
I've had all three, Doug's, TTIs new shorties, and Trebligs manifolds and can tell you some of my situations. The Doug's will never work with a Z-bar setup, so if you ever want to convert to a 4 speed they shouldn't be used. The Doug's also rubbed on my passenger steering arm, and were very close to the steering knuckle. The TTIs can clear a Z bar and fit nicely, but they are very close to the steering knuckle as well and the drivers torsion bar is right where they exit. All the other cheap headers I've seen don't fit well. Trebligs manifolds are the best fitting option, hands down.
 
I've had all three, Doug's, TTIs new shorties, and Trebligs manifolds and can tell you some of my situations. The Doug's will never work with a Z-bar setup, so if you ever want to convert to a 4 speed they shouldn't be used. The Doug's also rubbed on my passenger steering arm, and were very close to the steering knuckle. The TTIs can clear a Z bar and fit nicely, but they are very close to the steering knuckle as well and the drivers torsion bar is right where they exit. All the other cheap headers I've seen don't fit well. Trebligs manifolds are the best fitting option, hands down.

Thanks Tom!! I wasn't going to say anything but although many of the stock manifolds have been tested (and I've seen the tests) no one has ever tested the "machined" 360 magnum I sell. Since I machine them there has to be some increase in flow but without a dyno I can't really say how much but the size of the exhaust hole is increased a considerable amount. Either way....some members just prefer headers, I myself have never liked headers unless it's a drag car. I've had so much hassle with headers scraping on the speed bumps, header leaks and having to dent them to clear other parts. But the biggest headache is the coatings. I paid big buck for jet hot coating (inside and out) and it only lasted 2 years. It's probably the high humidity and high heat where I live. And yes, they will re-coat them for free but then you have to remove them and re-install them. I have better things to do as I get older especially since my car is a daily driver!!! Anyway, thanks again for the kind words. I have many sets of manifolds in stock and getting ready for the summer orders. I now also carry the small hole (1 7/8") 340 for the early As and even asking for volunteers to try the late 60s 340 manifolds on an early A to try help out the smaller A bodies with manifold options.

treblig
 

Attachments

  • DSC04243.jpg
    45 KB · Views: 395
  • DSC04242.jpg
    45.3 KB · Views: 374
  • DSC04241.jpg
    44.9 KB · Views: 383
  • DSC04240.jpg
    47.6 KB · Views: 390
  • DSC04239.jpg
    36.7 KB · Views: 376
  • DSC04244.jpg
    47.5 KB · Views: 395
thank you and I'm not doubting you at all tom, your speaking from experiences you've had obviously. but I must ask, has anyone else had these troubles with the dougs that toms referring to? im in 71 swinger that will not go to a 4speed but is lowered in the front. thanks to all.
 
I'm interested to hear as well. The Doug's are a quality piece, but the rubbing on the passenger side steering was an issue I never expected...
 
I'm interested to hear as well. The Doug's are a quality piece, but the rubbing on the passenger side steering was an issue I never expected...


Tom, What year and model car was it that you tried the Doug's headers on?? Engine/trans/auto/manual trans, console shifter??

treblig
 
Tom, What year and model car was it that you tried the Doug's headers on?? Engine/trans/auto/manual trans, console shifter??

treblig

1969 Barracuda, 360/904/console. Replaced them with your Manifolds...
 
Thanks for the info Tom. My Barracuda has 318, console shifter and 2004R overdrive!!
Using the same manifolds as you are (340 driver/360 magnum passenger) and they fit perfect.
treblig
 
-
Back
Top