Malwood underdash hydraulic kit for A-Bodies

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Pedal feels very good. I was pushing it sitting on a milk crate as my car is still half apart, so should be even easier with a proper seat. I would say on par with a fox mustang without the changing arc of the quandrant.

There is a slot in the firewall for a factory clutch rod (I believe), mine is an auto car so it had an oblong body plug. I drilled a hole in the plug and it was right in line with the fitting on the Malwood master.

The reservoir line I ran through a hole just below the main pinch weld, looped it down a bit and mounted the reservoir above the pinch weld. Clears the hood and Ross and Malwood said as long as the reservoir is higher than the master it will be fine, you could tie the hose in a knot and it would not matter.

When I get a second hand in the garage I will take a video of it in action, as well I will show the install and routing of the lines
 
Muswagon said:
Pedal feels very good. I was pushing it sitting on a milk crate as my car is still half apart, so should be even easier with a proper seat. I would say on par with a fox mustang without the changing arc of the quandrant.

There is a slot in the firewall for a factory clutch rod (I believe), mine is an auto car so it had an oblong body plug. I drilled a hole in the plug and it was right in line with the fitting on the Malwood master.

The reservoir line I ran through a hole just below the main pinch weld, looped it down a bit and mounted the reservoir above the pinch weld. Clears the hood and Ross and Malwood said as long as the reservoir is higher than the master it will be fine, you could tie the hose in a knot and it would not matter.

When I get a second hand in the garage I will take a video of it in action, as well I will show the install and routing of the lines
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Thanks for the update!
 
DionR said:
Just to follow up on this, my brother mounted his Malwood kit and found that the stock under dash e-brake setup no longer fits. The MC interferes with it.

He is going to an electric actuated e-brake rather than a hand pull setup. But maybe not for everyone so thought I would make it known.
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Literally just ran into this myself. I was a bit dissapointed as there was no mention of this anywhere. So now.. I need to figure out a new e-brake setup as well.
It never ends.
 
PhotoGreg said:
Literally just ran into this myself. I was a bit dissapointed as there was no mention of this anywhere. So now.. I need to figure out a new e-brake setup as well.
It never ends.
Click to expand...

Any chance you could post some pictures and specifics? Be nice to be able to figure out why some work and others don’t.
 
PhotoGreg said:
Literally just ran into this myself. I was a bit dissapointed as there was no mention of this anywhere. So now.. I need to figure out a new e-brake setup as well.
It never ends.
Click to expand...


Original 4 speed car or auto?
 
I have been following this thread and I'm convinced that this is the route I'd like to take in my '74 Duster "re-rebuild". This is the second time I rebuild the car.

I'm about to pull the trigger on calling American Powertrain for their kit. They don't have a kit specifically with the Malwood Clutch Pedal and their hydraulic Throw-out Bearing, but I talked to them (Josh) and they said that they can put one together since they do have a hydraulic clutch kit for the A833 4 Speed. They are just taking two kits and making a new one.

Before I pull the trigger, are they any updates on this thread? Pictures?

Also, any reason against the American Powertrain hydraulic Throw-out bearing, specifically? I mean, as opposed to RAM or McCleod? Thanks!
 
buy the pedal right from malwood, and buy their bearing. It has the bleeder where it should be, better bearing in general. Malwoodusa I think is the website. I’ll take pics of the whole thing tomorrow
 
Muswagon said:
buy the pedal right from malwood, and buy their bearing. It has the bleeder where it should be, better bearing in general. Malwoodusa I think is the website. I’ll take pics of the whole thing tomorrow
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Any part #'s or SKUs would be helpful.
 
Hi-Jack here!
Anyone know what a Hemi Barracuda/Dart with a stick use?
The Hemi Challenge cars?
 
go-fish said:
Any part #'s or SKUs would be helpful.
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www.malwoodusa.com

1967-76 A-BODY MOPAR - – Hydraulic Master Cylinder Clutch Pedal Kit (Billet Reservoir) - MalWood USA

MalWood’s hydraulic clutch pedal kit converts your existing manual clutch pedal or Automatic pedals into a hydraulics system
www.malwoodusa.com www.malwoodusa.com

www.malwoodusa.com

MOPAR Cherry Bearing kit, Proprietary, easy, bleed, technology Swivel line proprietary design - MalWood USA

Chevy Cherry Bearing kit, swivel hydraulic lines, UPDATED FEATURES Easy bleed technology, beveled seating surface for easy install Chevy Ford & Mopar availa
www.malwoodusa.com www.malwoodusa.com
 
Muswagon said:
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Oh nice! I didn't even realize that they (Malwood) carried a bearing. I might as well get everything from them. Thanks!

@Muswagon I have a couple more questions since you already have it installed. When you push the pedal, does the pedal go all the way to the floor? I mean... where does the pedal rest when you push it all the way down? I was just curious about this. Do you have your car already running and driving?
 
Mine goes almost the floor but still hits the built in stop just before. I clocked mine to sit lower (Ross will tell you options when you call for tech support on silly things like I did) as my brake pedal is set lower due to limited rod length (story of my life).

If installed in stock location it will hit the built in stop well above floor.

Clutch pedal feels like a new civic effort and smoothness wise.

Yes running and driving, it works very very well
 
Muswagon said:
Mine goes almost the floor but still hits the built in stop just before. I clocked mine to sit lower (Ross will tell you options when you call for tech support on silly things like I did) as my brake pedal is set lower due to limited rod length (story of my life).

If installed in stock location it will hit the built in stop well above floor.

Clutch pedal feels like a new civic effort and smoothness wise.

Yes running and driving, it works very very well
Click to expand...

I ordered mine and received the hydraulic pedal assembly. Looks pretty good. The reservoir is quite nice. I wish it came in black anodized though so that it won't stand out so much in the engine bay.

I took out the pedal support out so I can paint and rebuild it. I also ordered a brake pedal bushing kit from Brewers, but need to wait for that to come in so I can put everything back together again and back into the car. I wish I had ordered it sooner, but I thought I could get it locally here at Classic Industries but they don't have it seems. Bummer!

It will be awhile before the car is back together again though. I'm sending out the transmission too because the last time I got it rebuilt, it was never really right. Once I get the transmission back, I'll order the Hydraulic Clutch bearing. I've been looking at the one from Malwood and RAM. Not sure which I'll decide on, but I guess I have time.
 
The Ram is the best deal from what i can see, the Hydramax is a nice bearing but pricy, honestly from what I have seen and read the Cherry bearing that Malwood sells seems to be all around best. the 180 degree placement of the bleeder and pressure lines will make bleeding a snap
 
Muswagon said:
Original 4 speed car or auto?
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Sorry, shortly after getting the kit, I messed my back up really bad and had to take a break from the car.

It's an Auto to 4spd conversion. I don't have pics as I tore the e-brake out already.
 
also does anyone have a picture of the install guide or pics of the unit actually installed on an A Body? Trying to figure out where the bolt goes on the back side of the assembly.
 
Let me start out by saying that the potential park brake clearance issue has been resolved by Ross at Malwood. He was quite helpful.

I have two 1968 Barracuda pedal frame assemblies. One for an automatic, one from a 4 speed car. Only difference is the 4 speed car had a brace across the front. Mine was broken and I had a professional welder friend repair mine.

IMG_5498.jpeg


Other difference I found was the pivot shaft for the brake pedal was longer on the 4 speed. More later on how that could matter. The groove on right is what locates it in the frame. So the bottom one would stick out more on the side the clutch pedal assembly attaches to.

IMG_5495.jpeg


Here is a factory four speed pedal assembly:
IMG_5508.jpeg


Here is the older version of the Malwood kit installed on my car. Pedals came out very close together. I did a facetime phone call with Ross at Malwood and we could not figure out how or why mine was different.
IMG_5509.jpeg


Here it is on the bench:
IMG_5511.jpeg


And a youtube video showing the park brake clearance issue. The clevis rubs on the corner of the assembly and the lever sometimes catches on the bolt head for the clutch pedal pivot. If you were to install this with the longer style pivot shaft it would not clear at all.



Ross made a change to the pedal location and sent me the new version of the kit. He had already made a design change to help with the park brake lever clearance issue. He moved the assembly up closer to the firewall and that allowed it to be closer to the pedal frame.

Here is the old version in the left vs the new version on the right:
IMG_5600.jpeg


Here is the new version installed in the pedal frame on the bench:
IMG_5602.jpeg


Pedals are 5-1/2” center to center and with the stainless trim there is about 1-5/8” space:
IMG_5604.jpeg


Here is the new version installed in the car:
IMG_5611.jpeg


Here is a video showing the park brake clearance:



If you are forced to use the longer pivot shaft the built in spacer on the Malwood assembly might have to be shortened 1/4” for everything to line up perfectly. But, there is enough space now it may not be an issue.
 
I have the old version it seems, dang, I like the look of the new one!! I had no issues with parking brake, so must be changes throughout the years?
 
Muswagon said:
I have the old version it seems, dang, I like the look of the new one!! I had no issues with parking brake, so must be changes throughout the years?
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The “old” version is the first run of 75 I believe. The “new” version includes the offset Ross made based on complaints about the park brake issue.
 
Now that is customer service, listening to the end user, and changing for their needs. I have said it before, any interaction I have had with Ross has been excellent.
 
Ross helped through some questions I have, how to bleed, etc. Best customer service I have encountered ever
 
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