The high horsepower Chevelles of the day, the LS5 and LS6 cars all came from the factory using manifold vacuum. The LS6 was 11.25:1.Read your own post #95. The implication from IT was that the MVA benefit was due to a low CR.
Post #99 proves otherwise.....
When I connected to MV, I had to reduce the static timing to 5* since my happy place is 25* and the can ads an extra 20*. Now I have to rethink my curve because..... When MV drops off when accelerating from idle, the centrifugal is starting from 5* as opposed to 25*.What people seem to miss is, changing to MVA really doesn't change much. I have the SAME initial timing with MVA with the can unhooked than I did using ported vacuum. The only change is WHEN the can is activated.
Might need to reduce the total that the vacuum can can supply.When I connected to MV, I had to reduce the static timing to 5* since my happy place is 25* and the can ads an extra 20*. Now I have to rethink my curve because..... When MV drops off when accelerating from idle, the centrifugal is starting from 5* as opposed to 25*.
.......And increase static. That will definitely be a learning "curve". Pardon the punMight need to reduce the total that the vacuum can can supply.
That's sometimes necessary, depending on what the vacuum can pulls in. But you already knew that. lolWhen I connected to MV, I had to reduce the static timing to 5* since my happy place is 25* and the can ads an extra 20*. Now I have to rethink my curve because..... When MV drops off when accelerating from idle, the centrifugal is starting from 5* as opposed to 25*.
That's why I am starting to re-think MV for my application. Since I only need 25*, static may be Ok if the starter can handle it.That's sometimes necessary, depending on what the vacuum can pulls in. But you already knew that. lol
Just keep in mind, the vacuum can has zero effect on startup. It's only activated when the engine is running.That's why I am starting to re-think MV for my application. Since I only need 25*, static may be Ok if the starter can handle it.
Good thread Y`all.
Oh yeah. I'm dumb, I aint styoopid. lolRRR,
Did you readjust the idle mixture screws after setting up MVA?
Truer words were never spoken.Definitely, each engine has its own uniqueness/variables.
Aight den. I need some ideas. This carburetor has what I call "pink" pump cams on it. I have adjusted the pump correctly, tried both holes in the cam. Hole #1 works better, but I still have a stumble right off idle and I KNOW it's the primary accelerator pump, because I can see that it's a weak shot. The secondary side is like Niagara Falls, but the primary side is weak in comparison. I've disassembled it and run small drill bits into the carburetor body through the pump passage and down the nozzle hole on top to make sure there are no obstructions. Blew it out real good with the air hose, but the pump shot is still weak. Any ideas?
I've Leaned it out on the idle circuit with leaner idle air bleeds. 4 steps first, then 4 more. Made it worse each time. Trust me, it's the pump. I can SEE the difference front to back. It's huge. I think I'm going to check the angularity of the pump arm and then I may swap pump cams. Something simple and costs nothing.Rusty,
I assume this is a Holley DP carb? I doubt it is the acc pump. Put a piece of thin wire in the Idle Air Bleed to reduce the size...& test drive.
I thought about that and I thought about just removing it, but I left it there.I have one 750 Holley that the weight in the squirter always gets hung up and causes a piss poor squirt.