Master cylinder for Front disc brakes on 67 Barracuda

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67sfFish

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Does anyone know the correct master cylinder for a factory front disc brake car on a 67 barracuda? Thanks
 
My 73 had factory front disc and rear drum. IF you wanted to you could go to rockauto and they should allow the selection for disc front and drum rears. OR you can email dr. diff and he will for sure know as well where to go.
 
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I just check on RockAuto and had to go to 71 just to find it. I see no reason why it would be different.
RAYBESTOS MC36307
Alan
 
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RA may not list them under "'67 Barracuda", but there's a number of them listed under '67 Dart. Same unit.
1967 DODGE DART 4.5L 273cid V8 Master Cylinder | RockAuto
 
The parts store books have been getting this wrong from day one.

In 67 there was no difference between Power and Manual drum/drum but parts stores always gave me the wrong one if I said manual, If I said power I got the correct one. This was in the 80's

Also in 67 there was no difference between Power and Manual disc/drum

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Alan
 
no matter what you order, 100% check it whether it be right then and there at the parts counter or the minute the box arrives. i can't tell you the number of times that i got home from the parts to open the box and find and drum/drum master, or waited weeks before undertaking that portion of the project only to find a drum/drum master in the box that'd been sitting on the shelf the whole time.

also, if it matters to you, check the piston diameter too. a lot of times remans are just whatever looks close enough and will fit.
 
The disc MC always has a wire bale top (never a bolt); it has one large compartment and one small compartment; it has one round end and one square end (although, oddly, sometimes the square end is the front and sometimes it's the back — I have cores of both types). Piston diameter could be 15/16, 1" or 1-1/32" — as JYH says, check it if it matters to you. Bigger is firmer (but counterintuitively, power brakes got the smaller bores when there was a difference — it was a function of leverage).
 
From my research, no one is rebuilding the 1" disk /drum. You can get the 1 1/32" or the 15/16 but not 1". In disc / drum.

And it will not have the holes for the stock dust cover piston retainer as it uses a snap ring to keep the piston in place.

I have been looking at nos rebuild kits but 40 year old rubber is worry some to me.

I've been looking at drum drum kits to see if the seals are the same but have not removed my OEM master yet.
 
Sure you can buy the correct master. Just not from a typical parts store or anyone getting their parts from companies like Cardone.
if you find a used one its almost certainly going to be cheaper than a correct NORS or NOS, even if it needs sleeving.

Check the tables out in the article linked.
Brad goes by "Mastershake" on Mopart. He's made some updates and corrections since it originally came out but still a good starting point.
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/MoparAction/Master_Cylinder.pdf

Other good references are 1967 Shop manual. 1967 parts book.
 
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not from a typical parts store or anyone getting their parts from companies like Cardone

What has happened is the big aftermarket companies like A1 Cardone figured out they could resell drum brake master cylinders as disk/drum masters by removing the residual valve on the rear port (to front brakes). It works good enough for most of the time. Now what happens as the pads wear is the piston starting position moves out. The extra fluid in the resevouir ensures there is always enough to keep the front lines and calipers filled. It also helps having cooler fluid available for multilple high speed stops.

But most of the time the smaller resevoir was enough. Cardone and the others don't really care that occassionally it may not be. If there is an accident and some expert points out this was a contributing factor then lawyers will get involved. Their lawyers will either settle or argue that you or the mechanic should have checked and topped off the master cylinder more frequently - whichever will cost them less.

So how do you know what I just wrote is correct or just BS?
One way is to go the factory information. The shop manuals show this and sometimes explain it. Even better in this case are the Chrysler Master Tech booklets about brakes and brake hydraulics. Thanks to the internet and some dedicated hobbyists, this is all available on the internet, at least for now.
 
From my research, no one is rebuilding the 1" disk /drum. You can get the 1 1/32" or the 15/16 but not 1". In disc / drum.

And it will not have the holes for the stock dust cover piston retainer as it uses a snap ring to keep the piston in place.

I have been looking at nos rebuild kits but 40 year old rubber is worry some to me.

I've been looking at drum drum kits to see if the seals are the same but have not removed my OEM master yet.
I have also not found anyone that rebuilds . Napa listed a rebuild kit for these but no longer available. Maybe some of the custom rebuilders could do it. If you have the original 1" bore Bendix casting with the retainer screw for an A body, hang onto it. I was lucky enough to find one some time back but have not seen any since. I remember a RAM Man video where he said they were unobtainable.
 
I bought a reman 7 years ago.
Still sitting on the shelf.
 
There's at least two companies that do sleeving.
As far as kits for ones that do not have bore damage, like everything these days, it may take a little more hunting. I suggest starting with the OE part numbers, but also asking around. Places like Kanter and Northwest autoparts, although very different operations have stuff most box stores don't have. Same with the Laysons/Year ones/ and other mopar oriented places. Then there's the peple who hand old stock and parts for antiques and classics. Some specialize in brake parts, etc etc.

 
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