Maximum Performance N/A 383 build. Input wanted from engine gurus.

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67charger383

67charger383

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For the engine gurus:

My current project to build a maximum performance B block 383 with the goal of using a stock block. Money isn't really an object but I want to keep it to mostly not one off parts.

Engine Specs:

0 deck 30 over 383 block
forged rods and crank
TRW L2293 Dome Pistons
Super Damper
Fully race prepped 452 heads with near max wedge size intake ports
Harland Sharp 1.5 rockers
Mechanical Roller Cam
Lunati Mech Roller Lifters
Milodon Gear Drive
Milodon External Oil System
Fabbed aluminum oil pan with a crank scraper
Ported Weiand 2x4 Tunnel Ram
2x Holley 750 Double pumpers
Hooker Super Comp Headers
Accel BEI II Ignition



Car Specs:

67 Charger body
4000lbs with driver
Fully built 727 (kevlar clutches, RMVB, deep pan)
Turbo Action 5000 stall converter
8-3/4 Sure Grip with 4.11 Yukon gears
28' Tall tire


Yes I know it is a heavy car with small cubes. The goal is to go the fastest with an all steel 67 charger body with an Iron 383 block and stock stroke N/A.

Well anyways, I called up a few cam companies today to spec a custom grind mech roller, and they all told me to make the heavy car with small cubes combo work I would need to be turning 7500-8000rpm. I was then told that I really should get Trickflow 240 heads, H beam rods, and more modern lighter dome pistons. They told me that the TRWs are too heavy to run that type of RPM, Is that true? I know alot of SS guys ran them back in the day... I was also told that I could make the combo of Iron heads and TRWs work if they flowed around 290-300cfm. The cam specs I heard from multiple sources were: 280/280@50 680 Lift 110 LSA

So I have a few questions for any engine gurus here:

Can I turn 7500+ Rpms with the TRW Slugs? I already have the full rotating assembly balanced and blueprinted.
If so can I run them with TF 240 heads, or would there be piston-valve clearance issues?
Is it possible that the worked iron heads flow around the 280-300cfm range? I have big $$$ into them but for the price of getting them on a flow bench it wouldn't be worth it. I was quoted $500 to flow test them.
I will most likely go for the TF 240 heads.
Any recommendations for a modern lighter dome piston that would put the compression at roughly 13-1?

What needs to be done to prep the block to handle these high RPMs?

Can forged stock rods and stock hardware handle 7500? or am I stuck with having to get H beams and full ARP hardware?

I would appreciate any input or further recommendations.
 
I'm not sure I'd be comfortable spinning it past 7K with TRW slugs. I don't like spinnin um that high anyway.
 
Worked iron heads that flow that well will probably cost more than trickflows.
What you have is tricky. 600 hp however shouldn't be super hard to do with what you have.
I bet a low gear set in the 727 would really help you get that charger moving
I believe that cam is for a very light car, you'd probably need more gear and more converter to make it all work together, something more around 6000 rpm converter flash.
 
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MOPARMAGA said:
Guys used to do it though. I like you, would not either
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Yup. The old TRWs were all we had at one time. Lots of guys have done it and still do, but there are so many lighter options out there today.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Worked iron heads that flow that well will probably cost more than trickflows.
What you have is tricky. 600 hp however shouldn't be super hard to do with what you have.
I bet a low gear set would really help you get that charger moving
I believe that cam is for a very light car, you'd probably need more gear and more converter to make it all work together, something more around 6000 rpm converter flash.
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This is the type of input I want to hear.

I think some of the cam companies are just trying to "sell me a cam" and don't necessarily care if it does the job or not.

Schneider gave me those cam specs when I called to spec a custom grind.

Comp was trying to sell me a similar spec off the shelf roller cam grind.

Racer Brown was the only company that I talked to that I think was actually trying to work with me on a grinding a custom cam, And Jim was basically telling me that he dosen't want to touch it without TF heads, of if I can get exact flow data from the Irons.
 
67charger383 said:
This is the type of input I want to hear.

I think some of the cam companies are just trying to "sell me a cam" and don't necessarily care if it does the job or not.

Schneider gave me those cam specs when I called to spec a custom grind.

Comp was trying to sell me a similar spec off the shelf roller cam grind.

Racer Brown was the only company that I talked to that I think was actually trying to work with me on a grinding a custom cam, And Jim was basically telling me that he dosen't want to touch it without TF heads, of if I can get exact flow data from the Irons.
Click to expand...
Something like the solid flat tappet I have would probably do great in a heavy car and produce plenty of rpm in a 383 . It's 264-268 but if you wanna scream I think low 270s but that's a bunch , that's just my opinion though.
 
fishmens67 said:
Need more cylinder head than these to make power at 7500 rpm and beyond.
Realistically 6500 would be the limit with the parts listed.
also looking at 4.56 gear ratio instead of 4.10
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I would be fine with 6500-7k but I m going off of what I was told by cam companies.

I don't really know cam voodoo all that well
 
I have trick flows on a 470 tunnel ram engine
It will pull up to 7k, but I make peak power at 58-5900 rpm and have a solid flat tappet so really there's no need to run it up that high.
Sometimes the bore is a little smaller on 383s for trickflows.
I have a 4.375 bore and had to notch the top of the cylinders, not because the valve was close but the combustion chamber was bigger than the bore in that area, so my mixture was just coming down and hitting the deck lol.
Too damn bad you live all the way over yonder.
Id pull the top end off of my 470 and throw it on that 383 basically so you can test it out and see if that's going to meet your goal.
 
I would not trust 50+ year old rods to hold up to that rpm. Never, if it breaks it costs you nearly the entire engine
 
MOPARMAGA said:
I would not trust 50+ year old rods to hold up to that rpm. Never, if it breaks it costs you nearly the entire engine
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I'd almost agree, but I honestly trust the good quality steel 50 year old forged rods more than new chinesium junk h beams..
 
And I just don't know if it's even worth the money dropping $800 on good Molnar rods at a stock stroke in the first place
 
67charger383 said:
And I just don't know if it's even worth the money dropping $800 on good Molnar rods at a stock stroke in the first place
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I run Molnar in my engine, it's quality stuff.
I imagine the trw pistons weigh quite a bit more than a cast piston.
Just saying this jokingly but nobody can see a stroker crank inside your 383 block lol, things get a lot easier with more cubes
 
MOPARMAGA said:
I run Molnar in my engine, it's quality stuff.
I imagine the trw pistons weigh quite a bit more than a cast piston.
Just saying this jokingly but nobody can see a stroker crank inside your 383 block lol, things get a lot easier with more cubes
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He can kick it up to 431 with quality parts and keep it close to his original goal of using a standard 383.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
I run Molnar in my engine, it's quality stuff.
I imagine the trw pistons weigh quite a bit more than a cast piston.
Just saying this jokingly but nobody can see a stroker crank inside your 383 block lol, things get a lot easier with more cubes
Click to expand...
I getcha. I already have a blown RB based 452 in my pro street car that makes roughly 900hp.

Trying something different. The basis of this build really is the rotating assembly and the block.
 
A custom light weight piston for a 383 will set you back 1500 bucks
 
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