May be in over my head?

[dan schalk]

So I'm 2 weeks into my new used 65 barracuda. I've gotten it fired up but only for as long as it will burn the starter fluid. A second or two. It wouldn't suck any fuel up. I pulled the old tank, sender and fuel filter and replaced this weekend. I had already done the oil filter, oil, plugs coolant. Again fired up but not sucking fuel. A buddy was over who is slightly better at this than me and said 90% of the time its carb not fuel pump. It run slightly longer and we realized the water pump is leaking. I pulled the radiator and pump and it looked pretty bad inside. Would love some expert opinion if this is a problem, or it's what a 50 year old car looks like. Any advise would be great. Slant 6 225 with a bbs carb.

 

[my68barracuda]

There is a big chunk of something in the upper left corner of the water pump cavity, pop that out,
All that rust is about what a 50 year old motor can look like, there are lots of mixes around for cleaning out water jackets, from molasses to acid,,,
And if you think that looks bad, wait till you pull the valve cover,
For the fueling issue, is gas making it into the carb float bowl when the motor is turned over with the starter?

 

[Lee Robinson]

So I'm 2 weeks into my new used 65 barracuda. I've gotten it fired up but only for as long as it will burn the starter fluid. A second or two. It wouldn't suck any fuel up. I pulled the old tank, sender and fuel filter and replaced this weekend. I had already done the oil filter, oil, plugs coolant. Again fired up but not sucking fuel. A buddy was over who is slightly better at this than me and said 90% of the time its carb not fuel pump. It run slightly longer and we realized the water pump is leaking. I pulled the radiator and pump and it looked pretty bad inside. Would love some expert opinion if this is a problem, or it's what a 50 year old car looks like. Any advise would be great. Slant 6 225 with a bbs carb.View attachment 1715141044

I can imagine what the inside of the block and head and radiator are like. Most likely somebody ran straight
water in the cooling system. Time to rebuild or replace.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Put it back together with the new parts. Find the running issue. Then, flush the heck out of the radiator and engine.

 

[Killer6]

I'd hose the block thru that pump hole until it starts to clear up, then as RRR said, put it back together & get it running. By the looks of things, 90% of the time it's the
entire fuel system that needs re-done, carb is next................You did make sure the line from the tank to pump was clear as a bell right?..............

 

[Stephen Mulkey]

So I'm 2 weeks into my new used 65 barracuda. I've gotten it fired up but only for as long as it will burn the starter fluid. A second or two. It wouldn't suck any fuel up. I pulled the old tank, sender and fuel filter and replaced this weekend. I had already done the oil filter, oil, plugs coolant. Again fired up but not sucking fuel. A buddy was over who is slightly better at this than me and said 90% of the time its carb not fuel pump. It run slightly longer and we realized the water pump is leaking. I pulled the radiator and pump and it looked pretty bad inside. Would love some expert opinion if this is a problem, or it's what a 50 year old car looks like. Any advise would be great. Slant 6 225 with a bbs carb.View attachment 1715141044

I believe you are going to run into things like you are seeing while getting your beauty back to operating condition. Don't worry you can get there. Everyone here is rooting for you and will help when possible. Your issues with the fuel and now the cooling systems are normal for an engine / car settings for an extended period of time. I normally look at each part of the systems and clean, fix or replace everything that needs replacing. I seen your first post and you have a great 65 to start. For the fuel system I'd follow the advice as you are starting. I would make sure the lines are clear and replace any rubber lines. A new fuel pump wouldn't be a investment. As the advice says clean or replace tank and sending unit, fill the fuel bowl in the carb and it should run until it primes the pump, repeat primming if needed. As for the cooling system have the radiator cleaned, replace the water pump and thermostat, flush the engine and fI'll with coolant and water. Then you will be off to all the other things you will encounter but you are not over your head, just enjoy the though of riding in a beautiful classic Mopar after your finished.

 

[dan schalk]

There is a big chunk of something in the upper left corner of the water pump cavity, pop that out,
All that rust is about what a 50 year old motor can look like, there are lots of mixes around for cleaning out water jackets, from molasses to acid,,,
And if you think that looks bad, wait till you pull the valve cover,
For the fueling issue, is gas making it into the carb float bowl when the motor is turned over with the starter?

No. Fuel is not making thru the line. I put on a clear plastic fuel filter just so I could see if the fuel was getting there. Bone dry.

 

[dan schalk]

I'd hose the block thru that pump hole until it starts to clear up, then as RRR said, put it back together & get it running. By the looks of things, 90% of the time it's the
entire fuel system that needs re-done, carb is next................You did make sure the line from the tank to pump was clear as a bell right?..............

I'd hose the block thru that pump hole until it starts to clear up, then as RRR said, put it back together & get it running. By the looks of things, 90% of the time it's the
entire fuel system that needs re-done, carb is next................You did make sure the line from the tank to pump was clear as a bell right?..............

Yes I blew some compressed air thru but maybe I’ll replace the rubber line to the pump.

 

[RustyRatRod]

How is the rubber hose from the line to the sending unit? Hoses breakdown from the inside over time and will block flow. Are you sure the pump is good? I would remove the line from the outlet side of the pump and spin the engine. If you get no fuel there, remove the line from the inlet side and see if any fuel comes out. If fuel comes out the inlet side and not the outlet side when the engine spins, the pump is bad.

 

[dan schalk]

How is the rubber hose from the line to the sending unit? Hoses breakdown from the inside over time and will block flow. Are you sure the pump is good? I would remove the line from the outlet side of the pump and spin the engine. If you get no fuel there, remove the line from the inlet side and see if any fuel comes out. If fuel comes out the inlet side and not the outlet side when the engine spins, the pump is bad.

I replaced the hose to the sending unit. My next step is what you suggested with the pump. Thanks for the much needed guidance.

 

[dan schalk]

Thanks for the encouragement. Quick question on “fill the fuel bowl”. How do I do this? I can’t pour fuel into the “throat” right? Is it just down the small tube extending over the throat?

Thanks

I believe you are going to run into things like you are seeing while getting your beauty back to operating condition. Don't worry you can get there. Everyone here is rooting for you and will help when possible. Your issues with the fuel and now the cooling systems are normal for an engine / car settings for an extended period of time. I normally look at each part of the systems and clean, fix or replace everything that needs replacing. I seen your first post and you have a great 65 to start. For the fuel system I'd follow the advice as you are starting. I would make sure the lines are clear and replace any rubber lines. A new fuel pump wouldn't be a investment. As the advice says clean or replace tank and sending unit, fill the fuel bowl in the carb and it should run until it primes the pump, repeat primming if needed. As for the cooling system have the radiator cleaned, replace the water pump and thermostat, flush the engine and fI'll with coolant and water. Then you will be off to all the other things you will encounter but you are not over your head, just enjoy the though of riding in a beautiful classic Mopar after your finished.

 

[Stephen Mulkey]

Dan

Thanks for the encouragement. Quick question on “fill the fuel bowl”. How do I do this? I can’t pour fuel into the “throat” right? Is it just down the small tube extending over the throat?

Thanks

I use a small squeeze bottle with a piece of tubing that fits the angled tube in the carb throat. add fuel, just a few oz. this fills the float bowl in the carb and allows the engine to run for a little bit until the bowl runs dry or the fuel pump picks up fuel from the tank. it may take a couple of times but if all is right, all lines, rubber and metal are good the fuel pump should prime and you will be off to the races. Happy wrenching, Steve

 

[Stephen Mulkey]

Thanks for the encouragement. Quick question on “fill the fuel bowl”. How do I do this? I can’t pour fuel into the “throat” right? Is it just down the small tube extending over the throat?

Thanks

You know Dan i just want to say one more thing. remove the bottle and tube from the vent tube and any open gas from the area befor trying to start the engine. a backfire could be bad if there are open gas containers in the area. Just be careful.

 

[Killer6]

I replaced the hose to the sending unit. My next step is what you suggested with the pump. Thanks for the much needed guidance.

Also keep in mind that a bad pump diaphragm on a Slanty will put fuel into the crankcase before it will leak bad enough to ever come out of the vent-hole in the pump body.
Check the oil for any fuel smell/dilution.................,that's not the only way the pump can fail, but just the same......................

 

[Stephen Mulkey]

Also keep in mind that a bad pump diaphragm on a Slanty will put fuel into the crankcase before it will leak bad enough to ever come out of the vent-hole in the pump body.
Check the oil for any fuel smell/dilution.................,that's not the only way the pump can fail, but just the same......................

Killer6 that's great info.

 

[GenLee1970]

Killer6 that's great info.

Two things come to mind. Many years ago, when getting my 70 Charger running, it wasn't getting fuel to the carb. I replaced the pump and even the rod that activates it off the cam. Ran fine with an electric pump plumbed from a gas can with rubber hose, but . . . Anyway, even though the lines looked ok and were clear, there was a small pin hole or two in the main line not allowing the pump to form any suction. Also, many hands have had their way on these cars over the years, and not all of them competent. When I got my 73 Dart home a few years back, it wouldn't stay running. The previous owner had dropped the tank to seal a leak and when he strong armed it back into position, he kinked the rubber line. Think and look outside the box for other peoples "workmanship" issues.
Btw, my Dart had so many ineffective hacks performed by the PO that I contemplated naming it Alice: because a butcher had his way with her.

 

[my68barracuda]

Two things come to mind. Many years ago, when getting my 70 Charger running, it wasn't getting fuel to the carb. I replaced the pump and even the rod that activates it off the cam. Ran fine with an electric pump plumbed from a gas can with rubber hose, but . . . Anyway, even though the lines looked ok and were clear, there was a small pin hole or two in the main line not allowing the pump to form any suction. Also, many hands have had their way on these cars over the years, and not all of them competent. When I got my 73 Dart home a few years back, it wouldn't stay running. The previous owner had dropped the tank to seal a leak and when he strong armed it back into position, he kinked the rubber line. Think and look outside the box for other peoples "workmanship" issues.
Btw, my Dart had so many ineffective hacks performed by the PO that I contemplated naming it Alice: because a butcher had his way with her.

guessing the brake lines look rusty on the outside and if you don't know if the fuel ( and brake ) lines are original or not, you should plan to replace them 100%.
drop the tanks, look inside it clean and replace as necessary, do the the whole fuel - brake line job once and be done with it.
I have used Inline Tube on two vehicles and was impressed with how accurate the line were bent to fit right out of the box.

 

[GenLee1970]

Amen, brother.The days of just running these cars without going through fuel and brake systems are over. (have been since the 90's ) Sometimes you just wanna hear it run though when you first drag it home. When I do a car these days, I replace all the things that could leave me walking unless they are obviously new. The take offs make good spares if known to be good. Drove my Dart cross country and back, 8300 miles,no issues. Battery quit 6 months later. Was the only thing I didn't replace when I built the car. : D

 

[KosmicKuda]

Amen, brother. When I do a car these days, I replace all the things that could leave me walking unless they are obviously new. The take offs make good spares if known to be good.

That's exactly what I do. I want to be able to drive it anywhere and not worry.
My Valiant was 51 years old when I got it and had been off the road for 32 years before I completely went through it. Drove to Carlisle and back last year, maybe 750 miles total. The only thing I remember doing was adjusting the idle speed down a bit when I got there. Also cruised up for the Woodward Dream Cruise, top down of course.

This year my big trip will be down to Clay City, KY for the /6 drags.

 

[BillGrissom]

I run w/ water & 1 lb citric acid (ebay) for a day, flush many times w/ block drain plug out. I install a screen in upper radiator hose to catch stuff and not clog new radiator. I thoroughly dry (esp. heater core), change to silicone hoses and run Evans Waterless Coolant. Then no more corrosion or worries. Note the new water pump needs a gasket on each side of the metal plate.

 

[dan schalk]

Thats great info, thanks.

I run w/ water & 1 lb citric acid (ebay) for a day, flush many times w/ block drain plug out. I install a screen in upper radiator hose to catch stuff and not clog new radiator. I thoroughly dry (esp. heater core), change to silicone hoses and run Evans Waterless Coolant. Then no more corrosion or worries. Note the new water pump needs a gasket on each side of the metal plate.