Mechanical to Hydraulic lifters

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DA4AD

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I have a healthy 360 motor with a Comp Cams XR274R cam kit.
.564 intake/.570 exhaust mechanical roller.
I don't like the sound of the mechanical lifters.
Can I replace the mechanical Roller lifters with new hydraulic roller lifters.
I know I may have to replace my push rods as the length may differ.
Thoughts?
 
You can try and sell your cam and lifter. Or you can try swaping out the lifters for different solid lifters.
Also you should know that a roller setup sounds different than a flat tappet cam.
 
Just throwing out a question because I have never heard it asked or answered. What is the difference between a hydraulic roller cam and a solid roller. Obviously the solid roller will be more agressive. tmm
 
I have a healthy 360 motor with a Comp Cams XR274R cam kit.
.564 intake/.570 exhaust mechanical roller.
I don't like the sound of the mechanical lifters.
Can I replace the mechanical lifters with new hydraulic ones? I know I may have to replace my push rods as the length may differ.
Thoughts?

Thoughts...yes, learn to like it...:D

I have the XR286R (the next size up) in my street/strip Barracuda....and it runs mid 10's....what's not to like?
 
Solid roller uses solid lifters with rollers on the cam lobe.
Hydraulic roller uses hydraulic lifters also with rollers on the cam lobe.
Both are roller lifters but the solid lifters need to have a clearance (approx .015 - .020) at the tip of the valve stem to allow for expansion, the hydraulic setup does not need any clearance as the hydraulic lifter builds oil pressure to take up slack in the drive train. Just google (images) each lifter style and you will see the difference.
Hope this makes sense.

As for the performance, I have to agree this thing rocks. But I drive my car a lot and with 4:10's on the highway the motor gets annoying.
 
I should have explained, I know the difference between hydraulic and solid lifters. I have owned each. What is the differences in the cams and because they are simply roller cams, why can't the lifters be switched between the two?
 
Solid roller uses solid lifters with rollers on the cam lobe.
Hydraulic roller uses hydraulic lifters also with rollers on the cam lobe.
Both are roller lifters but the solid lifters need to have a clearance (approx .015 - .020) at the tip of the valve stem to allow for expansion, the hydraulic setup does not need any clearance as the hydraulic lifter builds oil pressure to take up slack in the drive train. Just google (images) each lifter style and you will see the difference.
Hope this makes sense.

As for the performance, I have to agree this thing rocks. But I drive my car a lot and with 4:10's on the highway the motor gets annoying.
Sounds like time for an overdrive tranny. I suggest the 200R4 if auto or a T56 (though I like Tr6060).
 
I answered my own question. Good idea or not, hydraulic and solid lifters can be exchanged on the same cam. The clearances or preload must be correct. tmm
 
I should have explained, I know the difference between hydraulic and solid lifters. I have owned each. What is the differences in the cams and because they are simply roller cams, why can't the lifters be switched between the two?

Yes, my thoughts exactly. That's why I started the thread!
Has anyone done this?
 
Looks like you could replace hydraulics with solids and not the other way around, because the hydraulic lifters can't keep up with the aggressive ramps of the solid cam.
 
Looks like you could replace hydraulics with solids and not the other way around, because the hydraulic lifters can't keep up with the aggressive ramps of the solid cam.

Makes sense, don't really wanna fill my motor with shavings!
 
Looks like you could replace hydraulics with solids and not the other way around, because the hydraulic lifters can't keep up with the aggressive ramps of the solid cam.

Right

Makes sense, don't really wanna fill my motor with shavings!

I doubt it'd fill the engine with shavings. Hydraulic lifters compress if put under too much load. Solid rollers are generally very aggressive and require high spring pressures to keep the heavy lifters seated on the cam and it's that high spring pressure that compress's hydraulic lifters causing it to lose lift and duration.

BTW: your biggest problem is those 4:10 gears, not solid lifters. Definitely not hwy friendly gears. Had them in my Cuda and hated them. Could barely run 55-60 without the engine sounding like it was gonna come apart. Put 3.55's in it and drives great now. Engine noise is greatly reduced and I'm sure it'll last a lot longer
 
TR6060 is already sitting in the garage!!!!
And that's not in why?!?! I'm wanting to see the thread on that one! Oh and don't forget all the pretty pictures.:burnout:
 
I know the 4:10's aren't the best for the highway, but once I get the TR6060 in it will be awesome. As for when get it in I'm not sure.
The car should have 3:55's as stated and would knock the RPM's down but it will still need the overdrive.
I'd just rather hear the exhaust note instead of the motor!
:burnout:
 
louder exhaust maybe? :D:burnout:

In all honesty I don't think the mechanical rollers should be terribly loud, especially while inside the car driving.

Is there any possibility there could be sound getting in through a hole in your firewall?
 
Yes, you can do it. There's only ONE lifter on the market that will allow you to do it. The Rhoads VMax.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rhl-1068xl/overview/make/dodge

While they are variable duration lifters, they are adjustable. That means you can run them without the variation and have no noise, I believe. Call Rhoads and see what they say. Their VMax flat tappet hydraulic lifters can be used with a solid cam, so I see no reason why the roller cannot.
 
Would it work? Maybe. How well? I'd suspect not very well. For how long? who knows?

Just replace the cam and lifters... There's a great market for used roller cams and lifters.
 
I know the 4:10's aren't the best for the highway, but once I get the TR6060 in it will be awesome. As for when get it in I'm not sure.
The car should have 3:55's as stated and would knock the RPM's down but it will still need the overdrive.
I'd just rather hear the exhaust note instead of the motor!
:burnout:

The o.d. trans is the way to go if you don't mind the work and cost to install it but unless your wanting to run over 70 mph a lot and/or your running short tires 3.55's work good without overdrive. Mine is spinning right about 3100 rpm at 70. It's buzzing along pretty good but considering the 4.10's made it spin 3400 at 60 it's like night and day.
 
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