carkindaguy
Well-Known Member
hi im new to racing and will be trying to get into it this year at my local trac mam. anybody that races there and want s to talk or just say hi go ahead and speak up. post a pick of your ride to.
mid america motorplex
- Thread starter carkindaguy
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alan627b
Well-Known Member
Glad to see another Mopar guy from the area. I think I remember seeing and talking to you last year. Nice looking Duster, we'll keep an eye out for you at the drags this year. As long as I'm not stuck working out of town all year, that is!
Better get some slicks soon.....
Alan
Better get some slicks soon.....
Alan
Is this the Mid America with a road course too?
alan627b
Well-Known Member
We even had a 24 Hours of Lemons race!
Gotcha, I thought it was the same place. I used to road race a lot and was wondering if it was the same place.... been awhile.... the road course is really challenging fun track to drive.
carkindaguy
Well-Known Member
well those are some nice cars. i was at the track two times last year, once to watch my buddys black 340 duster, and the one time i tried running down the track. my duster had a very stock 360 in it on street tires and went 9.4 or so. now the duster has the same 360 block and crank but thats about the only parts in the motor that are the same. some of the new engine pieces include hughes cnc stage 3 ported eddy heads, a lunati voodoo cam, 10:5.1 comp, hughes roller rockers. got some tti headers now with 2.5 x pipe, electric cutouts and flowmasters. its a blast to drive. i still need to do a few things before i can run at the track like build at trunk firewall, external battery shut off and i think i might even need the drive shaft loop. well taklk to ya later
ryan
ryan
Ryan, your gonna need more than that bub, if your racing with slicks, then it long wheel studs, and the driveshaft loop as you stated,and if your running mags on the front, long wheel studs there too...with street tires you might get away with it, but i wouldnt count on it!
Doug
Doug
carkindaguy
Well-Known Member
how do i replace the wheel studs with long wheel studs, are they just pressed in? it doesnt look that hard from some pics ive seen. driveshaft loop i wanted to do anyhow just for my own piece of mind.
Just tap them out with a hammer....I have seen some that are screw in, but that was on aftermarket axles.
alan627b
Well-Known Member
Ryan,
If you have stock small bolt pattern rear axles you can buy Moroso 7/16 Chevy application studs and beat/press them in. I used to sacrifice an open end lug nut to use as a driver to pull them through and get them tight. A press works much easier.. they might let you slide on the long front studs, and I think you can skip the rears IF, and only if.... the slicks are on steel stock-type wheels. It's best to ask the tech guys.
BBP would use 1/2 inch.
The driveshaft loop is required with slicks and is a good idea anyway.
Alan
If you have stock small bolt pattern rear axles you can buy Moroso 7/16 Chevy application studs and beat/press them in. I used to sacrifice an open end lug nut to use as a driver to pull them through and get them tight. A press works much easier.. they might let you slide on the long front studs, and I think you can skip the rears IF, and only if.... the slicks are on steel stock-type wheels. It's best to ask the tech guys.
BBP would use 1/2 inch.
The driveshaft loop is required with slicks and is a good idea anyway.
Alan
carkindaguy
Well-Known Member
ok im going to get a drive sheaft loop and long studs, done. thanks guys
alan627b
Well-Known Member
Good deal Ryan, I would much rather laugh at broken Chevvies on the starting line! :finga:
I don't care what Mythbusters tests show, pole vaults suck!:sad2:
You might consider upgrading your u joints to a heavy duty version, a quality product like Dana/Spicer or Moog if your existing ones are unknown or of questionable quality/unknown mileage or age.
Does your duster have an 8.25 or 8.75 rear?
If the thing winds up making some serious hp like I think it will, Moroso (I think) makes non greasable solid hex versions... the grease passage could be a weakness with good traction and high hp. If it grips well, the car WILL find the weak links!
All part of the fun of being a gearhead...
Alan
I don't care what Mythbusters tests show, pole vaults suck!:sad2:
You might consider upgrading your u joints to a heavy duty version, a quality product like Dana/Spicer or Moog if your existing ones are unknown or of questionable quality/unknown mileage or age.
Does your duster have an 8.25 or 8.75 rear?
If the thing winds up making some serious hp like I think it will, Moroso (I think) makes non greasable solid hex versions... the grease passage could be a weakness with good traction and high hp. If it grips well, the car WILL find the weak links!
All part of the fun of being a gearhead...
Alan
carkindaguy
Well-Known Member
hey alan, im not an expert on the drive line im using but i think im going to be ok. for a trans im using a tci street fighter 727, when i bought it new from summit they said it was good for 450hp. but if ya go to tci's web page they say its good for 625hp. but anyhow its still a 727 and i hear they are tough even thogh they are a little heavier and rob a little more power. as for a drive shaft i know for a fact its going to be fine, i ordered it custom from dennys drive-shafts, its a nitrous ready 3inch, they say its good for up to 2000hp, yes 2000hp. i paid them $500 bucks for it. the rear is a dana 60, not sure if its got 30 or 35 spline axles. they are "yukon gear" axles. the u joints are the BIG dana one not sure witch ones i do know that they are 1350s or bigger and they came with the driveshaft, dennys said they are good to 700-800hp. every thing listed above is was bought new about 1300 miles ago and driven on the street with a bone stock 360 in the car. now the new motor is in. the one thing im a little nervous about is the stock crank in the motor. but its to late now. well let me know what you think. here are some pics.
alan627b
Well-Known Member
Well, breaking parts sure shouldn't be one of your problems! It looks like you have most, if not all of the good stuff is in there! I was just throwing out the best stuff I could think of, lots of guys put all the bucks in the engine and forego the rest of the driveline.. not the problem here!
Once you get the suspension dialed in and hopefully are at the track on a "good day", I'm thinking it ought to be capable of a 7 something range 1/8th mile pass. You might have to show up on a Saturday to get the best numbers out of it, as Friday nights have a lot of street guys racing and track prep isn't always optimum. Still fun though. I just wish guys with treaded tires would learn water burnouts are a waste of time and rubber, and tend to track water everywhere.
Some of these guys do big enough burnouts it's as if they think a photographer was watching.... the process is a bit different with slicks than it it with street tires.. and it depends a lot on who is buying them! Wish I sold tires....
Looking forward to yakking with you, Doug and I will be happy to help if we can.
Alan
Got frame connectors yet? You'll be wanting them....
Once you get the suspension dialed in and hopefully are at the track on a "good day", I'm thinking it ought to be capable of a 7 something range 1/8th mile pass. You might have to show up on a Saturday to get the best numbers out of it, as Friday nights have a lot of street guys racing and track prep isn't always optimum. Still fun though. I just wish guys with treaded tires would learn water burnouts are a waste of time and rubber, and tend to track water everywhere.
Some of these guys do big enough burnouts it's as if they think a photographer was watching.... the process is a bit different with slicks than it it with street tires.. and it depends a lot on who is buying them! Wish I sold tires....
Looking forward to yakking with you, Doug and I will be happy to help if we can.
Alan
Got frame connectors yet? You'll be wanting them....
carkindaguy
Well-Known Member
i forgot to mention that i do have frame connectors. they are bolted in not welded but should help. ive got to figure out how to wire up the battery kill switch. can i just hook it up so it just kills the battery or is tech going to want it to kill the car to?
sbmmustang
Well-Known Member
look at the glenwood track post.
alan627b
Well-Known Member
When you flip the switch (or a track worker does) it kills everything.. that way, when you do a 7 foot wheelie and lose it into the retaining wall, flip over and are unconscious, hanging from the seatbelts... (5 point of course) they can shut off everything to reduce the chance of fire. It seperates the battery from everything else electrical.
Cleverly done it can also be a dandy theft deterrent. Might mean using a second switch.
It's called hoping for the best and preparing for the worst.
rayer:What a smart racer always should do. Hope this helps!
Alan
Cleverly done it can also be a dandy theft deterrent. Might mean using a second switch.
It's called hoping for the best and preparing for the worst.
rayer:What a smart racer always should do. Hope this helps!Alan
alan627b
Well-Known Member
carkindaguy
Well-Known Member
how funny, the link ya just posted is one of the threads i started, lol. thanks tho. i just noticed that i the pic you posted your wearing a kiewit shirt. you must work for them. i used to work for kiewit down in the pacific junction shop for a little over a year.
alan627b
Well-Known Member
Not Kiewit... MEC Corp. Worked in Grand Island for them at the old army munitions plant doing Hazmat cleanup. I did work for Kiewit at the Lake Manawa power plant, they rented 4 of Negus and Sons dump trucks and operators for a while.
Now I work for JC Excavation out of Kennard. Scraper operator.
I think if further ideas for the cut-off switch are needed, just Google it. Lots of ways to make it happen.
Alan
Now I work for JC Excavation out of Kennard. Scraper operator.
I think if further ideas for the cut-off switch are needed, just Google it. Lots of ways to make it happen.
Alan
carkindaguy
Well-Known Member
ya i got an idea of what i want to do with the cut of switch. im either going to run a push/pull through the tail lens or have a flip type mounted off the bottom of the bumper. i had my brother in law rewire the whole car with a painless wiring harness couple years ago, because im not good with wires, so will need help with the wiring. i will probably have to pay a shop to do it after i get it all set up unless i feel up to it.
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