Mild 318 misses at 3000rpm

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No need for brass feeler gauges. A regular piece of paper is about .002" thick. Fold it over twice and there's your non-magnetic .008".

Also, rotor phasing has zero effect on ignition timing and you'd have to be so far off to effect running, it would almost have to be one full space off. The only thing bad rotor phasing will cause is spark scatter, and THAT might cause what you're experiencing, but I highly doubt it.

I agree with Oldschoocuda on this. I think your timing curve is too early.
 
Before I go pickup the new distributor I'll set the timing at 5* and see how she runs.
 
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Back out at least 5 degrees and then 10 degrees of timing and see what it does. If it is rotor phasing, then that will improve it some. When I first listened, I was thinking detonation so what you have for total timing and at what RPM are critical. But the rotor phasing idea is a good thought.

BTW, what KB pistons do you have? Your cam is small (torquey) and the DCR will be high 7's with the KB167's.
 
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does it miss at 3K RPM in your driveway? I would try that & unplug/cap the can & see what happens. that will reduce the timing & shift RP clockwise. Yes keep the dist for now as the odds are real good that we can pin down the culprit without another purchase. lets find out what part/system is acting up.
 
nm9stheham said:
Back out at least 5 degrees and then 10 degrees of timing and see what it does. If it is rotor phasing, then that will improve it some. When I first listened, I was thinking detonation so what you have for total timing and at what RPM are critical. But the rotor phasing idea is a good thought.

BTW, what KB pistons do you have? Your cam is small (torquey) and the DCR will be high 7's with the KB167's.
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That's where it's a guessing game. This motor was built by a third party and was sold to me when the car it was built for was sold and that buyer wanted a big block. The pistons are some version of the hypereutectic KBs but I don't know for sure which. I got the whole thing carb to pan for a song.
 
Rapid Robert said:
does it miss at 3K RPM in your driveway? I would try that & unplug/cap the can & see what happens. that will reduce the timing & shift RP clockwise. Yes keep the dist for now as the odds are real good that we can pin down the culprit without another purchase. lets find out what part/system is acting up.
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As someone pointed out it actually starts to act up at around 2500 then gets worse. im going to set #1 at tdc and check rotor position then set at 5* ong see what she does
 
If you have a dialback or timing tape or a marked dampener, how much timing do you have at 2500? On the RP, eng off, turn housing till the magnet is dead even with the nearest tooth & see where the rotor is pointing (how close to the cap terminal & on what side of it). this static check will get you "close" to see if it is a RP issue & it dont matter where the dampener "timing" is, just work with the dist itself but yes if you set the dampener first to your preferred initial then move the dist to line up the magnet for this checking it will make it easier to start back up when you are done but note that the initial or mech timing does not affect RP. EDIT or easier yet, forget where the dampener is at & just hand bump the crank forward with a 1&1/4" socket/breaker bar till the magnet is dead even with the nearest/next tooth & see where the rotor RP is.
 
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DusterDaddy said:
That's where it's a guessing game. This motor was built by a third party and was sold to me when the car it was built for was sold and that buyer wanted a big block. The pistons are some version of the hypereutectic KBs but I don't know for sure which. I got the whole thing carb to pan for a song.
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Cool on the price! Then please take a complete set of cranking compression readings and let us know. I was just worried that they snuck some domed KB 318 pistons in there and then your DCR would be up in the high 8's with that small cam and then you'd very, very, very probably be facing detonation issues.

Just checking all the bases....and it would be good for you to know more about what you have.
 
Just set the initial to 5* very slow choppy idle still started to miss at 2500. I'm going to go plant some shrubs and after that go pickup that new dizzy.
 
Got sidetracked yesterday after work. My wife went shopping with my daughter after dinner tonight, so I had some time to head out and set up the new distributor. Got it running right away and this little hot rod teen likes 19* initial with the advance unplugged. With vacuum line connected to dizzy at 600 rpm idle timing advanced to 21*.
Now not wanting to have the neighbors get too pissed at me, I only ran up rpms twice. Happy to report the miss is gone! Thanks to everyone for the help! Looking forward to getting vacuum and timing readings this weekend.
A freak thing happened this past weekend while starting the car, I felt a snap in the throttle. Turns out the pressed end on my Lokar kickdown setup came off on the transmission side. Gotta call Summit and ask them to replace it. It's only two months old.
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Hey,
Glad you got it running ok.
I needed a few extra bucks for free shipping from summit and picked you up a timing tape, pm my your address and I will get it out to you.
 
sireland67 said:
Hey,
Glad you got it running ok.
I needed a few extra bucks for free shipping from summit and picked you up a timing tape, pm my your address and I will get it out to you.
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Thanks Shawn, that was awesome you thought of us here in Jersey!
 
You have get it running right before the snow flies.

I did pick the granddaughter up from day-care today in my Duster.
First time driving it in years.
She said to pick her up every day in it, she is 7.

My Duster ran fine, but the front end is out of alignment bad, and one valve cover decided to start leaking like it wanted to drain all the oil out.
Old cars, just something to tinker with.
 
If hooking up the Vcan changed your timing then your T-port sync. is off; Your throttle is too far open. Start by plumbing in your PCV. The PCV acts as an IdleAirBypass for our warmed up engines.

Reallynicelooking car.
 
AJ/FormS said:
If hooking up the Vcan changed your timing then your T-port sync. is off; Your throttle is too far open. Start by plumbing in your PCV. The PCV acts as an IdleAirBypass for our warmed up engines.

Reallynicelooking car.
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I also had the main manifold vacuum port wide open ( took the hose to the brake booster off to change the dizzy and forgot to put it back on till I hooked up the vacuum advance to the carb. )
I have been meaning to get the reducing fitting so I can connect the PCV. One of those things I always forget to buy when at the store!
 
AJ/FormS said:
If hooking up the Vcan changed your timing then your T-port sync. is off; Your throttle is too far open. Start by plumbing in your PCV. The PCV acts as an IdleAirBypass for our warmed up engines.

Reallynicelooking car.
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OR he might simply have it plugged into a manifold vacuum outlet, when it needs to be on ported.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Well I have a feeling that woulda pulled in more than just the 2* he mentioned
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Come on now. I'm not that clueless. lol
It's connected to the ported vacuum!
My brake vacuum source was wide open( forgot to put the hose back on) when I shot the first timing reading when it started to run nice. So the manifold was sucking in air big time from that 3/8 hose barb.
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Filled the car up with premium gas, set initial timing back 15* and drove around for the first time.
She hesitated some here and there but when rpms claimed over 2000 I think some of that advance came in and then it ran real nice. Pulled like crazy up there.

Both fuel mixture screws on the holley are 2-1/2 turns out.

What next?
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Go to holley's web site, they have tons of tuning videos.
 
If you are still running a parts store distributor and your motor wants that much initial your total advance is going to be way to high.
In the 40 plus degrees advanced area. You will also have a lazy curve. Then your throwing vacuum advance into the equation.
This website has great info.

Tuning Tips
 
Oldschoolcuda said:
If you are still running a parts store distributor and your motor wants that much initial your total advance is going to be way to high.
In the 40 plus degrees advanced area. You will also have a lazy curve. Then your throwing vacuum advance into the equation.
This website has great info.

Tuning Tips
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I sent PM to Trailbeast on the adjustable distributor.
 
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