Can’t find the MOOG offset bushings
Upper control arm for my 70
Dart factory Kelsey Hayes discs
Upper control arm for my 70
Dart factory Kelsey Hayes discs
Moog upper control offset bushings
- Thread starter Brooks James
- Start date
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Those do not look like the ones I have seen.
Well I don’t know what you’ve seen, but those are the Moog offset UCA bushings and they will fit your ‘70. Look at the picture, you can even see the offset in the bushing itself. And the description clearly states they’re eccentric for additional adjustment.
Ok it’s all good
K7103, been using them for decades.
Bronze Barracuda
Well-Known Member
Is it required to have eccentric bushings on both the forward and rear uca bush holes or do you just require 1 in the forward uca bush hole and a normal bushing in the rear uca bush hole
I mean, it's not required to use them at all. But if you want to get enough positive caster for a decent alignment with a set of radial tires you'll need them in both locations.
Even using 2 eccentric bushings per side it's unlikely you'll be able to get more than +3.5° to +4° caster. Which is the most the SKOSH chart shows, although honestly I think the SKOSH chart is really conservative on caster. Personally I think you can add +1.5° to its caster recommendations across the board even for manual steering. I'd never run less than +3° even for a cruiser with radials.
Bronze Barracuda
Well-Known Member
Alright, makes sense I forgot, "run as much positive camber as you can get". And if I were to also use a higher degree + or - 2 1/4 degree alignment bolt We'd be able to squeeze a little more positive camber?
PS why "radial tires". I realize next to no one is running bias ply tires anymore. Just curious.
Thanks
Pretty sure the "higher degree alignment bolt" is not actually a thing. As in, the same amount is available no matter what eccentric bolts are used. The sales description varies by whether they list the spec for a single bolt, or the pair. But the actual amount of adjustment is the same. The eccentric washer has to be the same size, so, all you could do was move the bolt closer to the edge. But there's no way you're going to double the adjustment number doing that.
I say radial tires because the factory alignment specs in the manual are for bias ply's. So if you're using radial tires, like most are, you should be using the skosh chart, not the FSM for your alignment specs.
I replace both tie rod ends. Pitman and idler arm. Lower ball points with Moog parts just 10 years ago. All GREAT. Now? It looks I'm lucky to have had that option? (P.S. The chatter back then was negative on Moog?) My experience? Thumbs up!
Ironracer
Gearhead
That's what I did. May remove and replace the rears, as I already have em. Just did LCA Bushns, and was Blessed to find a set of the Moog Strut Bushings. So before taking it to the worst of the best Local Yocal alignment places.....
Thanks for all the replies. 2 weeks ago I moved my car to a friends garage. I was Looking at the front suspension for antucipated header clearance. (Dougs 453)
And discovered that the entire front suspension had been rebuilt.
So, at this point, im going to run it as is.
Phase II will be, aftermarket lower and upper control arms.
And discovered that the entire front suspension had been rebuilt.
So, at this point, im going to run it as is.
Phase II will be, aftermarket lower and upper control arms.
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