They will do it for 300$ a set. I was torn between making it 4.382 bore and getting new pistons vs doing this. Financially the difference will not be that big due to shipping both ways but I really want to see this coating in action. Heard only good stuff about it so far.
I don't want to do the tops, but many people tell me to go for it...
I'm worried about pontential problems when trying to clean coated piston tops.
Virus situation is making it all much more difficult that I expected. Most of my parts are still stuck in USA. I will have them shipped to me next week. It will go by express sea package (3-5 weeks) so it will have quarantine process automatically ;-)
What rod and main bearing clearance would should I target for this?
Is .002-.0025" good idea or should I go a little bit more loose? I plan to use 20w50 oil.
Also I'm a bit concerned about rod side clearance. When I was getting new rods I noticed big difference in rods width. Also I didn't check my clearance on disassembly.
For example SCAT rods are 1.012" wide, where Eagle are 1.007" wide and Manley are 1.017".
Rods I took of my engine measure 1.013"...
No choice but to do it, but looking at virus situation in China it will be 3 months minimum before things start coming back to normal in other countries... Its really bad in Italy and Spain.
go .003 on mains and Manley rods. Manley = quality. you could measure width of crank rod journals and then decide how much side clearance u want then buy rods based on their width
go .003 on mains and Manley rods. Manley = quality. you could measure width of crank rod journals and then decide how much side clearance u want then buy rods based on their widthView attachment 1715492626
Thank you for advice, but it was too late. I went with SCAT with ARP2000 bolts. Got them new for 430$ shipped so I didnt think too much and just bought them. Somehow this virus situation is making these deals pop up...
Thank you for advice, but it was too late. I went with SCAT with ARP2000 bolts. Got them new for 430$ shipped so I didnt think too much and just bought them.
Why 20w50?? There is no reason to run that. Use a quality (by that I mean an oil with a base stock of Group IV and V base oils and not Group III) 5w30 and don't look back.
Unless you are burning methanol or something there is no reason to run that grade of oil.
Why 20w50?? There is no reason to run that. Use a quality (by that I mean an oil with a base stock of Group IV and V base oils and not Group III) 5w30 and don't look back.
Unless you are burning methanol or something there is no reason to run that grade of oil.
I always used Valvoline VR1 20w50 oil, never had any problems. My idea behind this was that these engines were designed before synthetic oil was available.
Why 20w50?? There is no reason to run that. Use a quality (by that I mean an oil with a base stock of Group IV and V base oils and not Group III) 5w30 and don't look back.
Unless you are burning methanol or something there is no reason to run that grade of oil.
don't thinner grade oils need tighter clearances like more modern motors have? they are designed for thinner oils at the factory so an 'old' motor would need to be built with thin oil clearances in mind.
neil.
don't thinner grade oils need tighter clearances like more modern motors have? they are designed for thinner oils at the factory so an 'old' motor would need to be built with thin oil clearances in mind.
neil.
I have a 400 block sitting on a pallet waiting to go to the scrap yard that you could have for free if you were local. I'm tossing it because the cylinders are too thin for a stroker. I'd never put multiple sleeves in a 400 block but I guess you have to do what you have to do.
Heads and intake before final sanding.
Plenum area was hacked by previous owner... I made the dividers the same length and shape for shorter pair of runners and longer ones. I’m thinking about welding in some plates to be able to get same length dividers for all ports...
Any suggestions how this can be fixed?
Also intake was polished but I will sand blast it to restore normal looks.
Around 10-12 hours. I use very sharp grinder tips when I start to remove a lot of material fast. Then I switch to less aggressive tips, stone and paper rolls last...
I mean intake alone and some cleanup + surface unification on heads. They were partially ported by Nick Wilson (RIP) but no flow chart was provided.
