Mopar 400 block 8 sleeves

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I made sure it gets thru the door before I started putting it together... The only problem was getting it down 2 stairs. We had to make it with me and buddy of mine with engine stand attached to it. It took us 6 hours with driving and multiple crane reassembly. It was good fun, not planning to do it again any time soon ;-)

My wife accepted all this mess quite easily, I'm still surprised about that.
a good friend once built a 429 ford motor in his spare bedroom. he hadn't banked on getting it down a full flight of stairs once it was complete. he sliced the carpet on every tread top to bottom :lol:
 
Runs and drives... any good tips for first miles?

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Did some miles and give it more and more each time. Seems to run very well.
The only thing that bothers me is oil pressure. It is 25+ in park at 1000rpm and 20 at 850rpm in 1st gear. I did some research prior to installing HS rockers and saw many people complaining about oil pressure with these rockers and also external oiling heads are not helping... thing is that oil pressure is low but not too low. Also Harland Sharp suggests restricting oil to the heads on their website.
The amount of oil going thru the heads now is impressive, when I take the breather off the valve cover on running engine I can see the oil flowing in big amounts, I never experienced that with standard oiling heads, also lots of oil flows from between rockers.

I already modified the connectors that bolt into heads to accept Holley jets so I can restrict oil like that, but what size do I start with? Should I do it or keep it as is?
I see 70 psi of oil pressure over 3500rpm when cruising.

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In the end I put restrictors out of Holley jets. Seems 69s are perfect for the job.
Now oil pressure in gear is 35psi and still ton of oil flows to the heads... Thread for jets is 1/4-32 and hole size for tap is 5.2mm

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Good thread!!

A .060” restrictor to each head is more than enough.

69 jet is .070" hole, this was the smallest jet I had so gave it a shot and it worked perfect.
 
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So steel shim head gasket was a bad idea for this build it seems.
I found clouding in coolant with some oil on the surface. Oil is perfect so high pressure leak I guess.
Car runs really good, oil is perfect, no overheat but it is what it is.

I didnt plug stock oil passages in the block and didnt install the cam bearing rotated to stop oil to heads either. I suspect this is where the oil meets coolant.

I started checking things on warm and cold engine.
Valve lash set at .020" cold is .022" warm for example.
What surprised me the most is head bolts torque specs difference warm vs cold.
When I put it together I torqued the heads to 74 ft lb. Wrench was set to 70 as it should but I verified the specs on it and it turned out to be 74...
To the point. There is big difference warm vs cold so on warm engine its only 62 ft lb. For the 1st time I used Manley head bolts, are they junk or this situation is normal?

I ask about head bolts because I always used ARP and here I got Manleys as a bonus to the heads (they were new). Also I used steel shim gaskets with aluminum heads without any problems till this point. This is 1st time with Indy heads.

I will get thin cometic gasket I guess, but should I get new head bolts also?
Any suggestions? I wan thin gasket to keep the compression at minimum of 11:1.
 
a lot of diesel motors need the head bolts retorqueing after a rebuild and most suggest doing it while the motor's hot, ie stop engine and immediately remove valve cover and rockers and retorque.
neil.
 
a lot of diesel motors need the head bolts retorqueing after a rebuild and most suggest doing it while the motor's hot, ie stop engine and immediately remove valve cover and rockers and retorque.
neil.

I also need to remove headers to do it... Lots of fun ;-)
 
''you lucky lad'' as my grandad used to say :lol:
neil.

As this is my only problem I'm very tempted to tap oiling holes in my cam, put set screws there and call it a day... No oil pressure there, no leak...
I really am! ;-)
I was about to install my target cam in it next week.
From this cam:
Mechanical Roller Camshaft; 1959 - 1980 Chrysler 383-440 2800 to 6300 Howards Cams 722113-08 | Howards Cams
To this cam:
https://www.howardscams.com/mechani...sler-383-440-3200-6800-howards-cams-722323-08

I changed coolant yesterday and drove the car a lot today and found minimal residue in the coolant. Will monitor this...
 
Looks like false alarm with the leak. I drained my coolant again and cleaned the radiator. Fluid is clean after driving the car hard half a day.

Now I need to work on limiting evac system putting too much oil in my exhaust. My valve covers have no baffles and I need to address that. Driving normal speed is ok but when I get into it I get a cloud of smoke, also it messes with my afr readings at wot as my o2 sensor is located after the evac tubes.
 
Just to show before and after of the coolant situation. Didn’t bother much with cleaning it up and it caused a lot of unnecessary stress...

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so if you're removing the valve covers to fit baffles will you retorque the heads too?
neil.
After Manley tech confirms it’s a good idea I will. Want to see what head bolts manufacturer has to say.
 
a good friend once built a 429 ford motor in his spare bedroom. he hadn't banked on getting it down a full flight of stairs once it was complete. he sliced the carpet on every tread top to bottom :lol:

Typical for a ford boy , knew a ford boy that did one in his living room , couldnt get it thru the door when done !
 
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