[FOR SALE] Mopar abody no lift k-member brackets kit for suspension and engine removal&install
- Thread starter bbmopars
- Start date
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Definately have to have an adequate engine hoist, cherry picker, crane, etc. FWIW, I have the US Cartool product that requires you to take body parts off. Chris Birdsong's looks better. The fact that it's more easily stored and shipping. Shipping three 4' long square tubing was expensive! Plus, proceeds help him come up with more gooder stuff like those suspension parts he's developing.
Dartnut
Don't hate me because i'm beautiful
This is a good idea by Chris Birdsong.
And he sells them for a decent price too.
Thanks for posting this, even if the thread title is kinda misleading...
And he sells them for a decent price too.
Thanks for posting this, even if the thread title is kinda misleading...
Actually, the point is the motor and trans come out from the bottom while elevating the body with his gizmos. What mechanism you use to elevate the body using his gizmos is up to you. His way hood removal isn't necessary.
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abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
Yeah I get it. But removing the hood always, ALWAYS makes big work in the engine bay easier. It's like in the other thread where the guy's asking about resealing the oil pan on a slant 6. I say pull the engine. Like every other guy I recommend that too, he's fighting against it. It's just SO easy to do, yet guys do everything they can to avoid it and always end up working harder. Same with pulling a hood. Guys will do everything in their power to keep from doing it. Makes zero sense.
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Oh I agree. That's how these cars were designed. But you just cannot tell guys that it's easier. They'll never believe it until they finally do it.
RRR- it took me a few engine swaps as a kid (along with adults giving me bad advice) to realize how the tough part of dropping below was the t-bars. I did not know how easy they were and how they actually worked. It also took Me a few more engines after that to get the fact you leave the engine harness on the motor and unplug it from the main harness on the fire wall. Just like Ma MoPar installed it. And we figured this stuff out by ourselves back then. No manuals or internet to ask a billion questions either. So many key board mechanics. But never did jack $h!t.
I pulled some from the top. My 64 Valiant for instance is EASY out the top. But next time, it's coming out the bottom, because I need to spiff up the suspension and change out the brakes.
Don't feel all alone. I tried posting to an ad that they can't have email addresses and was told to snitch..er report the post because it causes undue problems doing it the way everyone has done it.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
My 1985 M-B 300D hood can be propped to vertical, so no removal required. I didn't know that when I swapped in a new engine so removed the hood. I was clever enough to first drill two 1/16" holes thru each bracket into the hood so I could bolt it back perfectly. Learned that after removing the hood in my 1969 Dart, relying on a Sharpie outline. I spent a long time trying to get the hood re-aligned since marks don't suffice. I'm guessing the factory aligned the hood with a guy in the engine bay before they installed the K-frame assembly from below.
That doesn't even count. I'm not talking about newer cars here.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Showing your age if 1985 is "newer". I think M-B did that even in the 1970's cars. Somewhat strange designs, with some designs thoughtful for maintenance and other designs over-complicated for rich owners. Can do that when price isn't a major concern. My point is that if you do remove an A-body hood, it will be much easier to reinstall it exactly the same if you drill 2 small locating holes in each hinge bracket. Don't think you can rely on the paint marks or even a careful Sharpie outline.
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