Mopar Gods forgiveness

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Hello all, just a minor progress report and a victory! Today we got a little further in disassembling some more of the front end suspension… along with a stubborn tie rod end who decided to put up a fight after years of sitting… fortunately, I only had to threaten the lil bastard with our ancestors discovery of fire… after seeing that I wasn’t joking, it came right out with some generous impact…

NOTE: any tips and or advise in loosening the rubber brake hose 5/8”??? They’ve been soaking for a week in Pb and still won’t let go… thanks everyone and happy wrenching!

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coast2coastkidd85 said:
NOTE: any tips and or advise in loosening the rubber brake hose 5/8”??? They’ve been soaking for a week in Pb and still won’t let go… thanks everyone and happy wrenching!
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given the state of affairs, i'd be replacing the hard line there. so i'd pop the clip and just cut the line and thread it thru.

on an unrelated note, re: swaybar, your best bet is just to go with an aftermarket unit (hellwig 55914). hunting down stock LCA's with tab, bar & mount brackets is near impossible and will be crazy expensive.
 
Think I suggested a new bar earlier....way easier and probably not much difference in cost... You have soaked that fitting and heated it w/a torch?????
 
burrpenick said:
Think I suggested a new bar earlier....way easier and probably not much difference in cost... You have soaked that fitting and heated it w/a torch?????
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Sway bar is in the works at the moment and on pause while other pieces are being gathered. Now into the front end suspension, rubber replacement and overall refresh.

The brake hose fitting? No torch… yet! Tried 5/8 line wrench and it just twists the entire assembly…
 
Figured you would be getting new hoses anyway, but I ended up splicing in a new section of line on several that were rusted just like that...e
 
Oh ok I think I get it… you cut above or before the rusted nut/ coupler and spliced in from there? Am I understanding that correctly? Just eliminating the rusted damaged sections? The remaining brake hardlines should be ok?
 
coast2coastkidd85 said:
Oh ok I think I get it… you cut above or before the rusted nut/ coupler and spliced in from there? Am I understanding that correctly? Just eliminating the rusted damaged sections? The remaining brake hardlines should be ok?
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Yes, thats how I did it. Some dont like splices. but I NEVER had an issue with one and a brake shop I talked with said he had installed hundreds over the years successfully. You can probably get a 12" splice/line kit at a local parts store. These are 2 I just see on Amazon- you would just cut off one end and use a connector w/ferrule. https://www.amazon.com/MuRealy-Brake-Line-Repair-Kit/dp/B0CCS1YQ3R/?tag=fabo03-20

or https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performance-ALL48048-Steel-Brake/dp/B00F0C98MY/?tag=fabo03-20
 
Wow thanks for that! That might just save me the trouble of trying to salvage the rusted and corroded parts altogether. Thank you!
 
coast2coastkidd85 said:
Wow thanks for that! That might just save me the trouble of trying to salvage the rusted and corroded parts altogether. Thank you!
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if the outside of that looks like that, what's the inside look like?

out of an abundance of caution and in the name of safety i'd be replacing all the brake lines on that thing.
 
junkyardhero said:
if the outside of that looks like that, what's the inside look like?

out of an abundance of caution and in the name of safety i'd be replacing all the brake lines on that thing.
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Very good point and yes you’re right… would you happen to know is there such a kit or setup that includes lines already pre-bent for remove and replace? Junction blocks as well I would imagine. Thanks!
 
coast2coastkidd85 said:
Wow thanks for that! That might just save me the trouble of trying to salvage the rusted and corroded parts altogether. Thank you!
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PS: If you need to bend it some, the newer GREEN colored tubing is easier to bend- as it it does not KINK as easy. Yes, it can be tricky, but a cheap bender helps if you really need one.
 
burrpenick said:
PS: If you need to bend it some, the newer GREEN colored tubing is easier to bend- as it it does not KINK as easy. Yes, it can be tricky, but a cheap bender helps if you really need one.
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I appreciate all the help I can get I did not know about the GREEN tubing and will certainly look for it. Thanks!
 
You should be able to buy a 25' roll of 3/16 tubing at NAPA, or about any parts store. Copper coated 3/16 tubing is available too, which will help prevent rust. You will need a double flaring tool to make the ends. It's not hard to do, but practice on some short cut off pieces before you get down to the nitty gritty, for real flares. Lots of content on You Tube to learn how.

:thumbsup:
 
No problem at all, late or not, I hope you enjoyed it and it’s great to be able to share. Very much appreciated for the feedback. Thanks!
 
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