Mopar LCA Length Differences?

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805moparkid

805moparkid

Slant and AFX Guy
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So we took the Notch to be aligned and it would not align properly, It has not enough caster (about a degree) with the rear adjuster all the way in and the front all the way out (not proper camber spec \\...//). So the alignment guy said mopars had two different control arm lengths, one for a body (moparts says 13.2) and B/E body (moparts says 12.8).

Now we measured all our a bodys

67 notch cuda
68 dart
73 swinger
68 dart

And they all had 12.8" lower control arms... Not surprising coming from moparts.

So I guess the question still stands, what are the lengths for LCA's for a given app? Also do you guys have strut rod lengths as well?

THanks

P.S. old photo, cant delete it...
 

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E/B-bodies have about 1/2" shorter LCA's. If you look closely at all yours they should be stamped VL for the A-bodies ones. IIRC, the B/E body ones will be stamped WR ??

E/B-bodies have longer strut rods. Measure yours flange to flange against some others your have or installed on A-bodies.

Just get some Moog 7103 offset rubber bushing and install them.

Also, I don't know how good your alignment guy is. Some are lazy and not very knowledable, so when they get a car that is way out of adjustment like a just assembled car, they freak out.
 
Are you sure the K-frame isn't broken out?
 
moparlover said:
PST makes a corrective UCA. basically the adjuster cam seats get hogged out over the years, and you cannot make enough correction to get proper alignment.

the aftermarket part puts her back where she belongs.

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...ive_camber_alignment_corrective_control_arms/

PST is a vendor here and occasionally puts up discount codes, and you get 10% off for just being a member here:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=172665
Click to expand...

Luckly that's not the case with this one, the slots were un worn, only had 50K on the OD as well, family owned car.

autoxcuda said:
E/B-bodies have about 1/2" shorter LCA's. If you look closely at all yours they should be stamped VL for the A-bodies ones. IIRC, the B/E body ones will be stamped WR ??



E/B-bodies have longer strut rods. Measure yours flange to flange against some others your have or installed on A-bodies.

Just get some Moog 7103 offset rubber bushing and install them.

Also, I don't know how good your alignment guy is. Some are lazy and not very knowledable, so when they get a car that is way out of adjustment like a just assembled car, they freak out.[/QUOTE]

I will check on the LCA's, I recall looking at those markings I just don't remember what they were.

We have a good alignment guy, Gary has been doing it a long time and always takes good car of all our stuff. Used to Race a lot back when and align his own stuff.

jos51700 said:
Are you sure the K-frame isn't broken out?
Click to expand...

A Little more specific? Something like check to see if your pivot pins holes are wobbled out. And no the K member is fine, no cracks, nothing is loose, just the alignment is off
Click to expand...
 
Ok so I had a thought about a post oldmanmopar did about the strut rods and poly bushings. I tracked down his post and on fine thread strut rods you need to remove the spacer or it will push the strut rod back about a 1/4 t0 1/2" an inch. We removed those and it looks much better so its back to the alignment shop to see.
 
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