Mopar P4452761 Camshaft

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So, with my 340 set up of Air Gap Intake with Fitech Fuel Injection,.030 Flat top pistons,727 with B&M holeshot; good or bad?
 
I would buy a better torque converter if you can afford it. We used a protorque on my buddy’s car and it has been pretty impressive, high flash stall speed and not loose when you are driving normal.
 
Fast340cuda said:
I would buy a better torque converter if you can afford it. We used a protorque on my buddy’s car and it has been pretty impressive, high flash stall speed and not loose when you are driving normal.
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The Holeshot I have says 2400 stall. That not enough for this cam?
 
daddio4048 said:
The Holeshot I have says 2400 stall. That not enough for this cam?
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I think 2,400 RPM is a good starting point for a flash stall with this cam. My experience with B&M and their rated stall speed wasn’t very good but their quality may have improved over the last 20 years since I ran mine. Lots of factors come into play like motor torque, vehicle weight, rear gear ratio, etc so everyone’s results will vary. My holeshot seemed to stall around 1,800 RPM or so. But if you got it may as well run it and see how it does.
 
mattax I was talking about the ubiquitous 214-224 type cams available from most all big vendors like Speed pro, Elgin, Edelbrock,
and what moparofficial said
if I was doing a rebuild and had to buy a new cam I would never buy a stock 440 or 440 Magnum cam-I can do better more low end and more top end
but I would not change a good running stock or magnum cam just to change cams well not exactly true
Back in the Day City of San Jose was burning up 440 propane bus motors 10,000 miles and they were burnt up Big warranty problem for Ma Mopar
stock cam had too much overlap for their rev range and load
shorter cam with about the same lift but fatter area under the curve really helped
but it took a piston change to really fix (design similar to KB step quench)even raised the compression
together EGT dropped 800 degrees- no more glowing cherry red exhaust manifolds
valves cool when they are on the seat and torch with long slow ramps
 
put it together and see where it stalls- very torque dependent
I was friends with the manager of the firm that build converters for B and M (and many others) for many years
conservative but quality
IDK who builds them now
 
Moparofficial. The voodoo had the best 60ft. The midrange was not as good as the mp cam. Cam and converter would have helped the mp cam just as much as the voodoo. This is my street car not a sorted out race car. There was no loss of low end torque with the voodoo or hughes. Just my experience with 3 cams. Results will very.
 
For an entry level EFI fueled build, I wouldn’t be leaning towards a cam with a 108lsa.
IMO, something like the 702 voodoo would be a better choice.
 
I've heard that cam really likes a 2800 stall. Don't cheap out on converters. I went form cheapies to a dynamic and later a ptc and let me tell you it was the biggest improvement I ever did to my car. 60ft. was way better, mph and e.t. Drove like a stock converter. Both are great converters.
 
I ran it in a 360, idled quite smoothly, not much notice at all. I really liked that cam.

Ran 13.30's with 3.23's and a 28" tire in a 3200 lb car without driver.
 
318willrun said:
I ran it in a 360, idled quite smoothly, not much notice at all. I really liked that cam.

Ran 13.30's with 3.23's and a 28" tire in a 3200 lb car without driver.
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I was trying to look for why you disagreed with me and maybe it's a misprint on his part but a to 268/272 @50 ?
 
Wyrmrider said:
mattax I was talking about the ubiquitous 214-224 type cams available from most all big vendors like Speed pro, Elgin, Edelbrock,
and what moparofficial said
if I was doing a rebuild and had to buy a new cam I would never buy a stock 440 or 440 Magnum cam-I can do better more low end and more top end
but I would not change a good running stock or magnum cam just to change cams well not exactly true
Back in the Day City of San Jose was burning up 440 propane bus motors 10,000 miles and they were burnt up Big warranty problem for Ma Mopar
stock cam had too much overlap for their rev range and load
shorter cam with about the same lift but fatter area under the curve really helped
but it took a piston change to really fix (design similar to KB step quench)even raised the compression
together EGT dropped 800 degrees- no more glowing cherry red exhaust manifolds
valves cool when they are on the seat and torch with long slow ramps
Click to expand...

Wyrmrider, do you happen to recall the rest of the cam specs you used for the bus motors? I am in the planning stages of building a 413-3 for an RV. Changes from stock will be custom piston made to achieve close to zero deck and about .040 quench, and a set of RV headers. Should put me about 8.75 to 1 compression with the giant head chamber size. I have a set of the old Chrysler steel shim gaskets for this motor. Copper coat on install or no? Planning to run a 518 with 618 internals behind it. Any advice or input is appreciated. Thank you in advance sir.
 
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