Ironracer
Gearhead
Looks like the 59° has a Severe angle.. that's the Race Only unit, I assume? Hope I'm not clouding Your thread, learning here...
Mopar R3 Block
- Thread starter Dmopower
- Start date
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No the 59 is the factory angle required to use most heads the way I understand it. The 48' is the corrected geometry race version that requires specific heads...the way I understand it. lol
Ironracer
Gearhead
Ok! Thank You! Now if I could understand Why something that's aligned better, would be for Race only? Maybe the vavletrain/ cam / lifters take a harder hit? I do remember when Mopar Performance had them in the catalogs... but never played with one! Great Thread, and Thank You, I'm Really Limited here, so watching and learning! Lol
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One question I still have. Can you run a hyd flat tappet cam with the 59' block? I read you cant with the 48' block because the roller lifters need to be offset and you cant offset hyd flat tappet lifters. Is anyone using a hyd flat tappet cam on an R3 engine block?
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59 degree.. Also make sure it has engine mount ears.
I run a R3 solid roller on the street babbit 2" cam had to made by Tighe cams in Australia $600 about $480 US Victor Heads Crane ultra pro lifters 48 degree 9.6 deck .
Needed some work on the Pushrod holes for clearance
check on the top front of block drivers side there will be a part no tell you about the block also the Version mine ends in a D which means it was 1 of the latest made
Tighe cams have a few blanks roller & other also Brett Miller can supply
Needed some work on the Pushrod holes for clearance
check on the top front of block drivers side there will be a part no tell you about the block also the Version mine ends in a D which means it was 1 of the latest made
Tighe cams have a few blanks roller & other also Brett Miller can supply
replicaracer43
Grumpy Old Man
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Also make sure it's a wet sump version, and as oldmanmopar pointed out, make sure it has motor mount ears. Lots of them were machined off being intended for use with a motor plate.
You can drive a 48* block on the street.
You can run a Hyd cam & lifter in a R3 if it is a 59* block.
The revised 48* tappet angle is only to straighten out the pushrod angle for better geometry. You need a special cam blank to be custom ground for the 48* block.
The revised 48* tappet angle is the way the OE blocks should have been made. Better geometry with higher rpm capabilities. (That and a better rpm capable oiling system would have been great as a delivered OEM block.)
The 48* cam core blanks, IIRC, were being sold for $300. Then you mail it to a grinder, pay him to grind it and have it mailed back to you.
The 48* heads have pushrod clearances machined into them. They can be easy to see. The machined area is against the inside wall where the intake bolts up. The machined area is deep enough to mildly cut into the valve cover gasket sealing area.
You can run a Hyd cam & lifter in a R3 if it is a 59* block.
The revised 48* tappet angle is only to straighten out the pushrod angle for better geometry. You need a special cam blank to be custom ground for the 48* block.
The revised 48* tappet angle is the way the OE blocks should have been made. Better geometry with higher rpm capabilities. (That and a better rpm capable oiling system would have been great as a delivered OEM block.)
The 48* cam core blanks, IIRC, were being sold for $300. Then you mail it to a grinder, pay him to grind it and have it mailed back to you.
The 48* heads have pushrod clearances machined into them. They can be easy to see. The machined area is against the inside wall where the intake bolts up. The machined area is deep enough to mildly cut into the valve cover gasket sealing area.
9secRR
Well-Known Member
48*W2. Was on a 59* 1970 340 block.
That is the most mildest pushrod clearance cuts I have seen on those heads. Is that how they arrived, OOTB?
Who’s rockers?
Who’s rockers?
9secRR
Well-Known Member
Yes that’s how they arrived. T&D 1.6
Thanks. Thanks be seen the pushrod machining go up to the valve cover gasket area. Makes me wonder…. A little bit… LOL!
9secRR
Well-Known Member
59* block. This is my 340 resto block. 4 bolt mains and 9.58 deck height
How was fitting the rockers? Did you have to relocate the mounting holes?
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
9secRR
Well-Known Member
No sir. Rockers fit great.
Thanks for your help. Preparing to go down this rabbit hole myself.
'68cuda416
Well-Known Member
This is kind of ridiculous.....if the OP doesn't have at hand 25k and up MINIMUM to fully complete whatever R3 block version it is AND have it run at a expected R3 platform would run at, plus the 48 degree would be much much better, siamese bore is a big plus and 9.2 or 9.6 deck are both fine.....then he should just go another route. You can build a nice street/strip low 500hp factory small block for probably half that money that is a very good, reliable piece that suits a lot of needs. Some people may chime in and say well back when I built my R3 engine I didn't spend that much and yeah well we are in the Biden Inflation Era now and not only has particularly high end race parts gone up multifold in price BUT you can't get them either......a higher end engine built 5 years ago probably costs 40-60% more in todays economic climate......just keep all this in mind.
I don’t think he is going the R3 block route since what he was offered was an open deck R5 block. Which he is not going to get.
The discussion seems to simple have turned into a tech theme. Current pricing of parts is insane for sure. So building anything no matter the brand is about, out of control and probably prohibitive for many.
I’ll say one thing for sure, you nailed it when you said a stock block is capable of 550hp or ground pounding terror on the streets. No need for a race block for that easy to do level of power.
A 340 or 360 block is well suited for that power level and do it without worry of failure. Unless your a beast pounding the crap out of it daily without mercy.
The R3 block, the model more closely to the stock block, is really no more expensive to build except the entry fee of the race block. But why pay race block fee’s for a mundane build? LMAO!
The discussion seems to simple have turned into a tech theme. Current pricing of parts is insane for sure. So building anything no matter the brand is about, out of control and probably prohibitive for many.
I’ll say one thing for sure, you nailed it when you said a stock block is capable of 550hp or ground pounding terror on the streets. No need for a race block for that easy to do level of power.
A 340 or 360 block is well suited for that power level and do it without worry of failure. Unless your a beast pounding the crap out of it daily without mercy.
The R3 block, the model more closely to the stock block, is really no more expensive to build except the entry fee of the race block. But why pay race block fee’s for a mundane build? LMAO!
'68cuda416
Well-Known Member
Exactly.....and I made mention of that when I said if you are going to build it in the normal power realm of the typical R3's
Freakin A dude!!! Your 100% right IMO.
The OP mentioned he would like to do a Victor head build. The R3 would be perfect for high power builds. But for what the Victor can offer, I would not be building a street bound engine with those heads and at there price.
Talk about under utilizing a heads potential!
The OP mentioned he would like to do a Victor head build. The R3 would be perfect for high power builds. But for what the Victor can offer, I would not be building a street bound engine with those heads and at there price.
Talk about under utilizing a heads potential!
I am asking for the tech information required to make a sensible R3 59 block purchase. Any and all talk about my potential funding is out of bounds and was, is tacky at the very least. You guys may find another thread and harass someone else. The rude comments are not enjoyed, requested or appreciated. I am building a ground pounding small block street beast. I don't care who likes it. I have NOT attacked, insulted anyone else on this site for their vehicle choices. Either be helpful and cheerful or move along!!
I sure hope that wasn’t directed at myself.
I do not think I qualify for anything you mention above.
On the flip side, your awful defense. Consider it normal chatting and opinion sharing between members.
In the end, yes, your car your way and I hope you get what your after.
PS, I do t think it’ll cost 25K!
I do not think I qualify for anything you mention above.
On the flip side, your awful defense. Consider it normal chatting and opinion sharing between members.
In the end, yes, your car your way and I hope you get what your after.
PS, I do t think it’ll cost 25K!
I sure hope that wasn’t directed at myself.
I do not think I qualify for anything you mention above.
On the flip side, your awful defense. Consider it normal chatting and opinion sharing between members.
In the end, yes, your car your way and I hope you get what your after.
Wrong. I am asking for specific info. The comments one poster left were insulting and had zero value. His first line was this is ridiculous and you agree 100%. I got that. I'm asking very specific tech questions and not for financial advise from gold boy. Good day.
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