Mopar R3 Block

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I won't know if it's a pita until I get the intel I need to make that call. If it's a 59 block, 9.6 tall and the cam bearings isnt an issue. I don't see an issue at all. But that's why I'm asking the questions. A pic defining each valley would go a long way for me at this point.
Man I hope that works the way you want! Sounds like it'd be a Brutal street car
 
These are the best two pictures I pictures I could find real quick. The 48 degree block picture I pilfered from here on FABO. The other came from FBBO.

Here is the 48* LBAView attachment 1715907710

Here is the 59* LBAView attachment 1715907712


As you can see, the 59* LBA is laid towards the cylinder walls and the 48* LBA is stood up and moved towards the cam.

That is exactly what I needed to see. Q Are all 59' blocks 10 head bolt only or can they have all 18 and use them on a 59' block. No biggie just curious. I think I have enough to go on now. I'll get back with pics and specs tomorrow for you experts to weigh in.
 
The trouble with MP race blocks are, there’s so many versions!!!

Here are some pictures of a 9.2 with my W2’s on top.
(I picked this up from @replicaracer43 a couple of weeks ago. Thank man! Great meeting you.)
In the pictures, you can see the short timing cover, the way the W2 intake was notched to fit the short deck and where standard head gasket sit in the deck.

I was lucky enough that replicaracer43 had the timing cover and intake to work with this other wise I’d have to walk away.

This particular block takes standard cam bearings as many other R3’s do. Bring a measuring tool.

Good posting by @Rat Bastid

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Heck! I don’t blame ya! It’s easy to make a mistake with the R blocks.

There are 3 different deck heights and 2 cam angles for what 25 possible combinations? lol. And I know nothing about them soo wish me luck. I think I got enough info to get the right one but I'll be posting pics and asking more questions tomorrow. Same Bat channel. ;)
 
There are 3 different deck heights and 2 cam angles for what 25 possible combinations? lol. And I know nothing about them soo wish me luck. I think I got enough info to get the right one but I'll be posting pics and asking more questions tomorrow. Same Bat channel. ;)
25 combos plus a few oddball blocks that never appeared in any parts catalogs…
 
25 combos plus a few oddball blocks that never appeared in any parts catalogs…

Plus whatever fred next door did to it before you get it. lol. This one is supposed to be new and unmachined, 340 mains and std lifter angle 340 bore. The deck height is going to be the key if the rest is accurate.
 
I see these all say race only. Can these be run on the street? Daily Driver?
I know a few guys that run roller cam bearings in high hp drag week type stuff, and our 410 small block ford in our race truck uses them and we race 1000s of miles at a time in Mexico. But I sure wouldn’t try doing it in a daily driver low rpm type of setting.
 
Plus whatever fred next door did to it before you get it. lol. This one is supposed to be new and unmachined, 340 mains and std lifter angle 340 bore. The deck height is going to be the key if the rest is accurate.
Yeah that’s the other factor… was it sent out not fully machined and something was custom spaced…do you have the Victor heads already?
 
Yeah that’s the other factor… was it sent out not fully machined and something was custom spaced…do you have the Victor heads already?

I don't have the first answer and the answer is no on the victor heads. But if I get an R block victors are what I plan to run.
 
MoPar, AFAIK, did not do any custom bore spacing. I took his reference as a unbored cylinders in as he said, virgin block.

Get the numbers off the side of the block and anywhere else you can find them or any other glifs.
 
I also recently had the opportunity to purchase a new R3 with a new crank. He also had one of the later Mopar racing heads and I saw another head on ebay. I was really wanting a small block Mopar that could turn some serious rpm. After reading about all the special parts required, and how hard they are to find, I think I came to my better senses.
After looking for info about these blocks, I just realized the block I was offered was an R5 with the open deck. That seemed really strange to me when I was looking at it. Now I wonder what all special parts that would need.
 
These are the best two pictures I pictures I could find real quick. The 48 degree block picture I pilfered from here on FABO. The other came from FBBO.

Here is the 48* LBAView attachment 1715907710

Here is the 59* LBAView attachment 1715907712

As you can see, the 59* LBA is laid towards the cylinder walls and the 48* LBA is stood up and moved towards the cam.
Not wanting to detour this thread, but why and how does changing the lifter angle from 48 to 59 influence engine performance/durability? Asking as I have seen this discussed before and I don’t understand the basic background.
Thanks
 
Hello Guys and Gals. I have the opportunity to purchase a new never ground on R3 engine block tomorrow. I'm low on time to do adequate research on my own. I am looking for a HD block to build a large street engine out of for my 67 Cuda. I do NOT know what to look for and would appreciate any input and insight as to what the differences are. It is said to be a std bore and std lifter angle. Are all 59 degree blocks 9.6"? Is that what I want for a street engine running victor heads? If I buy this I will be selling my 70 std bore 340 block. Thanks in advance for the help folks.
I found this tell all about the blocks:
How to Build Mopar Engines for Performance: The Block Guide - Mopar DiY
When it looks like you are at the end of the article, keep scrolling down. There is more. A long article.
 
That article also explains and illustrates the 48 and 59 degree lifter angles.
 
Not wanting to detour this thread, but why and how does changing the lifter angle from 48 to 59 influence engine performance/durability? Asking as I have seen this discussed before and I don’t understand the basic background.
Thanks

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