MS3 , Multiport & turbo build

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so youre not gonna run a damper on the engine?

I'm considering adding a turbo to my current build, has been in back of my mind from the getgo, I think Im gonna get it running and debugged w/o the turbo 1st and broken in. not looking at much boost, ~6-8 PSI at most.... Im hesitant to add EFI though. ("K I S S") I have a brand new NOS 318 spec BBD that I bought for this engine. Bought 2 at the time, 1 is on my son's 80 D150 with a /6.
that BBD will go on initially as a N/A engine for a while, and I'll see how it does with that/ I did alot of grinding on the block (0.030) and the head (0.070") to get this engine to "blueprint" CR (8.4:1, but that's with an Aussie 0.060" head gasket) so we will have to see.
 
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His damper is behind the timing wheel. Retained....You'll find the turbo sits nicely where the battery tray is. It's a natural depending on where your hot side comes up
 
Pishta is correct, the damper is behind the wheel. this block was milled .120 ( yep 1/8" ) the head just skimmed. I am running a felpro head gasket. I am hoping it will be fine without the block being O-ringed. Boost will be low until things get all worked out. then who knows. Ordered up some coil packs once they show up I can start working on a mount and where I want to put them. not sure if I want them hanging off the valve cover.
 
Make a bracket and mount the coil pack(s) down where the distributor used to be so the wires are somewhat hidden off the top of the head. Thats where my EDIS-6 coil pack will reside. I got a newer Malibu coil pack also of i dont want to have Fords EDIS-6 control the entire pack as it has onboard ignitors. MS can tickle those by itself with no add ons.
 
COP or CNP keeps the wires nice and orderly. 153624 pairs 1-6, 5-2, 3-4 and that results in a flat (or upright) coil pack with an orderly spider looking wire routing. I like the non-Ford male terminal packs as they don't require the proprietary male Ford boots.
 
I ordered up 6 ls style coils, fairly certain they can be mounted upside down. I may even be able to use the original coil mounting holes for one end of the bracket to hang the coils off. Im getting a little itchy to hear this thing run again. Just have to find the time to tackle all these little projects to get it running.
 
well, it has been some slow progress. not the prettiest weld but, I will pressure test them and make sure I have no leaks. haven't had as much time to work on it as I would like but, I'm still chipping away at the list.
hoping a blanket will keep it from cooking the paint.
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Little more progress this weekend. Exhaust all mocked up, ready to pull, clean & weld up. Added a tab to the down pipe to help support the pipe. Still need to fab up a support for the turbo. Ran out of gas on the welder so that is next on the list to do.

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Progress has halted for the most part. Dealing with some health issues in the family. Was getting the shop set for the winter and hoping to get back on the project until, Wednesday when I dropped a motor ( 1/4hp pump motor ) on my foot...... Fractured the big to in two spots and have been on the couch since.
have a couple pictures of the latest addition, looks like I will have to get a new gasket for it ( was damaged in shipping ).

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That is the best looking slant valve cover I’ve ever seen.
 
Very nice project!
It looks like there may be room to fit a vertical heat shield between the turbo and inner fender. Maybe aluminum sheet with tabs that bolt to the top of the frame rails and inner fender?

Nice valve cover! Is there baffling on the inside? Can you do me a favor and measure the I.D. of the rear-most PCV hole?
 
@KosmicKuda its a threaded hole with a 90* fitting no PCV or baffles in it. going to try and run a PCV inline and possibly a catch can.
I have a blanket for the Turbo, just haven't installed it yet. a secondary heat shield isn't a bad idea, might add one once i figure out all the rest of the plumbing.
 
@75slant6 no real progress the last few months. was able to get out there the last few weeks but, that was to put a Magnum 5.9 together for a guy. I did manage to get the valve cover bolted down and the turbo drain plumbed. hopefully in a couple weeks I can spend a good weekend on wiring it all up.
 
Nice build, hope your health issues are behind you.
Question: What valves are you running and did you get a chance to look at the roller to valve tip contact? Asking as I am running valves that have stems that are nearly .100 longer than stock and the B3 spacers had a positive effect on reducing the roller contact patch. The downside was the B3 spacers moved the rocker shaft up enough that I had to modify the stock valve cover for clearance. That Mopar Performance VC does not have the step down on the ends so that should help.

And you have a real nice build going, but let me offer this, if I am seeing the fuel flow correctly the fuel comes in the fire wall end of the rail and out the radiator end. That is exactly how I ran mine. I put the regulator at the exit end of the 180 degree turn on the radiator end using a custom bent U that put back clearance in to fit the regulator. Mounted the regulator on a simple bracket that connects to the fuel rail bracket. That would save a couple of lengths of woven fuel hose and the closer the regulator is to the rail the more accurate it will be at the injectors. The fuel return path is then a straight path back along side of the fuel rail.
 
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Slickest MPFI I've seen. A company (in AL I recall) showed photos of a planned welded aluminum intake w/ MPFI, but I never saw them go production on it. I was thinking of going cheap, adapting a Mopar aluminum intake for MPFI, using the rails & injectors from a V-6 Intrepid (have). Re boost which slants love, I noticed one can buy a rebuilt M-B Kompressor supercharger for ~$250 on ebay. V-belt driven and about the size of a power-steering pump. Anybody consider that? Perhaps a cheap and easy way to get boost. Hope those M-B engines rotate the same direction.
There is somebody selling these on e bay. Pretty slick if I do say so myself.

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Nice build, hope your health issues are behind you.
Question: What valves are you running and did you get a chance to look at the roller to valve tip contact? Asking as I am running valves that have stems that are nearly .100 longer than stock and the B3 spacers had a positive effect on reducing the roller contact patch. The downside was the B3 spacers moved the rocker shaft up enough that I had to modify the stock valve cover for clearance. That Mopar Performance VC does not have the step down on the ends so that should help.

And you have a real nice build going, but let me offer this, if I am seeing the fuel flow correctly the fuel comes in the fire wall end of the rail and out the radiator end. That is exactly how I ran mine. I put the regulator at the exit end of the 180 degree turn on the radiator end using a custom bent U that put back clearance in to fit the regulator. Mounted the regulator on a simple bracket that connects to the fuel rail bracket. That would save a couple of lengths of woven fuel hose and the closer the regulator is to the rail the more accurate it will be at the injectors. The fuel return path is then a straight path back along side of the fuel rail.

I have a set of the B3 spacers as well, going to run it without them for right now as I was able to re-use my pushrods this way.
contact didnt look terrible either way ( obviously improved with the B3 set-up ). that valve cover has Tons of room. just is tight to the heater core connections.

that is correct it goes in on the firewall side then out the front into the regulator and back to the tank. I had the ptfe line here so I wasn't super worried about using a little more to keep the regulator away from the heat. I didn't want the line near the alternator either otherwise I would have come out the front over to the fender well.
 
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ok, so after letting it collect dust for Too long. I finally had some time to mess with the car. I mounted my coils ( took me Way to long to decide how and where to mount them ). Mounted the MS3 on the toe board area ( didnt want to ditch the heater or fill the glove box ). also took my68baracuda's suggestion and moved the regulator closer to the fuel rail. spent some time cleaning up the factory harness and looking at how much room I have for an intercooler. thinking it will be a liquid to air ( just not enough room for a big air to air.
 
Nice to see some progress. Mines on back burner also, too long.....:-(
 
Either of you guys willing to share knowledge?

Went to Mopar Nats in Columbus hoping to see a eFI turbo build… nothing.

have a 64 Dart convertible rolling chassis that is ready for paint and built to accept any amount of HP a slant six can throw at it.

want to build an EFI turbo slant. Tearing down a long block this weekend and picking up another 225 Industrial Engine this weekend to pick the best parts.
Have a big block car and want to do something different.
 
Either of you guys willing to share knowledge?

Went to Mopar Nats in Columbus hoping to see a eFI turbo build… nothing.

have a 64 Dart convertible rolling chassis that is ready for paint and built to accept any amount of HP a slant six can throw at it.

want to build an EFI turbo slant. Tearing down a long block this weekend and picking up another 225 Industrial Engine this weekend to pick the best parts.
Have a big block car and want to do something different.
 
You will find some good slant six turbo info here at FABO, another good source of info is at slantsix.org
Charlie S is the guy that you want info from he frequents both sites.
Do searches for turbo slant six on both sites, then start a new thread with the questions that you have.
 
You will find some good slant six turbo info here at FABO, another good source of info is at slantsix.org
Charlie S is the guy that you want info from he frequents both sites.
Do searches for turbo slant six on both sites, then start a new thread with the questions that you have.
Great! Thanks. I already have a big block car we swapped over to EFI but I am wanting to enter the modern era a bit more.
 
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