MSD E Curve Distributor

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mopar4x4stroker

mopar4x4stroker

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Hey guys, I just installed an E Curve dizzy. Those who don't know, its a digital diz with its own built in ign module. It allows the user a variety of custom tailored advance curves that you set by following a graph with corresponding letters and numbers that you then set with little dials under the cap. You also have the option of vacuum adv. and or locked-out, with a start retard feature that retards the timing below 600rpm.

Im not gonna go into detail on how to set it up, but I will mention that its backwards to a traditional diz. You set your total at idle, lock it down, then pick the advance (retard) curve from the chart.

Anyway, I wasn't even sure how much total my motor could tolerate. So initially I left it locked out at 38 and went for a test drive. I figured it was gonna ping like a sob under light throttle load, but to my surprise it was fine. So I kept adv it 2° until I heard ping. It didn't start to ping until 44° deg. I couldn't believe it. What a different animal. My old diz was a vac adv unit. Not sure what the vac curve was, but it was set up for 318 with 15 initial and 34 mechanical by 3k rpm. Needless to say, it was quite the slouch. I wasn't impressed (almost embarrassed) with the 408.

Anyway, being Im new to ignition tuning, does this seem normal or has my damper slipped? I don't know what kind of mileage I get since I can't go more then a mile w/o getting on the throttle :D. Would it benefit in economy or performance in a cruise situation with an actual "curve" whether it be mechanical or vac?

I just can't believe it can handle that much lead. The teener couldn't handle anything above 16-17/35-36. That was just de-smoged with cam/intake and mopar elec ignition. I know strokers like a lot of initial, but I didn't think 42° with closed chamber heads, moderate compression, small cam.

Motor is a 408LA with 670 holley SA, home portmatched performer intake, RHS closed chambers with 2.02's, 9.5:1 dished pistons, 470ish 225 duration 112lsa hyd flat with 1.5 RRs.

Vehicle is a W150 pickup, stock 727/TC, 3.23 gears, 30" tires. Weights a hair over 4k
 
The e-curve is supposed to be a bit of a beastly unit. It's good to hear it's working for you.

It's not unusual for old harmonic balancers to become flexible where the rubber coupling joins the inside from the outside and this can cause the timing marks to become unreliable.

But if your balancer is in good condition and relatively new it probably shouldn't be a problem.

If you're setting the advance by checking for pinging, you have to give yourself head room for bad fuel/bad weather/sustained low RPM at WOT.
 
frosty_the_punk said:
The e-curve is supposed to be a bit of a beastly unit. It's good to hear it's working for you.

It's not unusual for old harmonic balancers to become flexible where the rubber coupling joins the inside from the outside and this can cause the timing marks to become unreliable.

But if your balancer is in good condition and relatively new it probably shouldn't be a problem.

If you're setting the advance by checking for pinging, you have to give yourself head room for bad fuel/bad weather/sustained low RPM at WOT.
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Yeah its a great design, although Im a lil concerned about the board frying. Evidently people have found that enough carbon dust can short it out. Makes me want to lather it in silicon. One thing I did notice, is the chevy style hold downs for the cap don't seat the cap all that tight. I can rock the cap back and forth. I'll probably just seal it with some dialectic grease.

The damper is a new.... I forget the brand now, Power something. I believe its the same damper summit reboxes and brands as their own. I remember asking my machinists when I droped off the block and rotating assembly to be machined and balanced if it was a good unit. He said itd be fine, he sees em all the time.

I'll probably back it out to 40. I don't need every last pony, after all its a 4x4 and does tow occasionally. Still curious if it'd benefit from an actual curve. Although when I was setting it up, instinct had me setting initial which I set at 22, and wasn't nearly as responsive as*it is now with 42. Id incorporate vac, but then I can't use start retard so my initial would be somewhere around 22 or less. So I think I might leave it at 40 and see what kind of mileage I get once I learn some self control.

Im just glad the pig runs again. It was quite the mind**** lol.
 
I am thinking of an E-Curve for my 408. I have an MSD Pro Billet now and I hate adjusting my timing every time I use race gas or decide to go to the track instead of normal street timing. I can tell you I have 11.8:1 compression and on 93 octane I run 38 degrees advance and on 110 octane I run around 44 degrees. How much advance your engine needs is dependent on many things. If it runs good and you hear no pinging, you are probably okay. I am tossing around the E-Curve or an MSD 6AL-2 programmable box. Not sure how I am going to go yet.
 
I'm definitely not an expert on ignitions by a long shot but 44 advance sounds like HEAPS. I hope you know what you're doing, please be careful.
 
frosty_the_punk said:
I'm definitely not an expert on ignitions by a long shot but 44 advance sounds like HEAPS. I hope you know what you're doing, please be careful.
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Im no expert either, but I know what detonation sounds like. It didn't like 44, got slight ping @ WOT. I will agree that 42 IS a shipton.

After driving around today, she was giving me fits starting. So I'll have to back it off some. Yep, powerbond, couldn't think of it. Idk if its the bees knees lol but it seems to be a good budget street damper. The biggest thing is it has the same height as a stocker so my pulleys line up. Too bad the degree marks are on the wrong side. Can't have everything, its a MoPar after all.
 
I don't see any obvious signs of pre-ignition/detonation. Not sure why #5 and #8 porcelains are so white. The base of the plug indicates their happy. These plugs aren't really a good indicator to fuel mix as they've been idled, cruised, and wot. I didn't get to look with a magnifying glass, but the porcelains didn't appear to be glazed or spotted. Hard for me to read temp, they look like they might be a lil hot.

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Abodybomber said:
Feed it,some more jet. A wideband O2 would help immensely.
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Got one, just haven't hooked it up yet. I thought when the base of the plug (what the grnd strap is welded to) is fully sooted its actually a lil too rich, but for a DD is good. Like I said, this set was idled/cruised/wot so its hard tellin. I was more worried about if the porcelain was showing any signs of pre-ignition or detonation. If the porcelain is glazed or spotted that's a sure sign.
 
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