muriatic acid, OK for carb soaking?

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I dropped some stock Footpegs off a sportster in the
muriatic acid to remove the chrome so I could paint them black...
Those Pegs were made of Harluminum I guess... The Chrome was the Only thing left after 30 or so minutes.
The Chrome Footpegs that came out were Hollow and Empty!
Damn!
 
The biggest thing I can thing of muriatic acid is used for is the etching and cleaning of tombstones and in the marble industry. Something that strong would be a real bad choice for aluminum. lol
I think its used for cleaning concrete pools also. I maybe thinking of something else tho.
 
muriatic acid on aluminum will give off a vapor, that will burn your lungs, its very toxic.
 
You can Cook it up with some Benzedrex Inhalers and Stay Awake for a Few days Too! :realcrazy::poke::mob:
Like hell I will. I'd never wake up. I'm sure that'd satisfy some people here and elsewhere, though. lol
 
Like hell I will. I'd never wake up. I'm sure that'd satisfy some people here and elsewhere, though. lol
You can Cook it up with some Benzedrex Inhalers and Stay Awake for a Few days Too! :realcrazy::poke::mob:
Hahaha. No wonder everyone around here has dirty pools haha. Are you serious tho they put that stuff in meth or something?
 
10:1 Walmart "Klean strip" (2% final acid concentration) for the win! 10 minute soak followed by a dunk in 1/4 cup washing soda in a 1/2 gallon water neutralizer bath and then fresh water rinse. Follow up all unplated steel with WD-40 as they will flash rust. This was a 1973 Pinto Aluminum Weber design carb body that was heavily oxidized as weathered aluminum gets and was full of gas varnish. The copper mineral traces in the bowl won't come out even with a scraper. This is proof that it can be used to clean a carb safely at a SAFE CONCENTRATION.

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Nice.
This is what I meant when I said it works if you use it correctly, and that it works on some materials and not others.

Thanks.
 
Muratic acid or spirit of salts....nasty, just "old timer" names for HCL, to get round the fact suppliers are not usually allowed to sell HCL to the general public without recording lots of details....

thats hydrochloric acid.... even diluted you don't want it in your eye...once its in it just eats through into the optic nerve and well.....just NO...

It nasty

aluminium has its own protective oxide layer so it won't necessarily eat it away instantly but it is so nasty you wll end up with holes in your clothes or hands or eyes....!

The only thing i use it for is motor cycle petrol tanks, and they need treating with caustic soda followed by bicarb and water afterwards.

use it on nuts or bolts and it casues embrittlement so don't be using that reclaimed bolt to attach your brake caliper.!

if i was going to use any kind of acid i'd use phosphoric acid, it shoould attack the gunge and leave the body alone over a few hours faster if warmed.

if you want it cheap you can get Milk Stone remover this is the stuff the dairy industry uses to clean their stainless fittings

i have no idea if the term milk stone is used in the US but it makes a nice rust removing gell if you mix it with wall paper paste. add some food colouring so you can see where you have smeared it.....

you can also use caustic soda BUT it makes the body turn dark grey and carries some of the risk of HLC in regards to your wellbeing....

and you don't know if its aluminium or just a casting of Pot metal..i.e what alloy is it???
could be just the swarf and scrap from some other process melted down and cast...like most of the trim was....

best bet is a sonic cleaner filled with brake cleaner and run outside at about 50*C
the fumes that come off are massively flamable and not nice.... outside only

if it still has blockages drill/pick out the lead plugs. blow through with air line and replace them with bits of lead shot and a punch, you want the un cut shot not fishing shot that has the cut for the line.

Dave
Iirc this and other Webers of the Italian made era are made of Zamac: Zinc, AL, magnesium and copper due to the weight of this body. That copper trace may be what im seeing at base of fuel bowl? The Chinese weber copies are mostly AL, softer and does not wear as well as Zamac hence the poor reputations of those $89 knock-offs. $89 is $10 more than a good Walker rebuild kit for a Weber DGEV that consists of soft gaskets, O-rings and 3 diaphragms!
 
Yeah, Down Here They call it Bathtub Crank! :lol:
Damn that's crazy we have a meth pandemic in these parts idk what all is in it but I know it has lithium and Sudafed nasty **** idk why anyone would even try it lol
 
As previously mentioned, it is used to lower the pH in pools as needed. I keep a couple gallons on hand and dump some in when called for. You do NOT want to have your nose over where you're pouring it in and for heaven's sake wear safety glasses in case something splashes back at you! I put maybe 1 to 1-1/2 qts in at a time in a 9500 gallon pool.
 
As previously mentioned, it is used to lower the pH in pools as needed. I keep a couple gallons on hand and dump some in when called for. You do NOT want to have your nose over where you're pouring it in and for heaven's sake wear safety glasses in case something splashes back at you! I put maybe 1 to 1-1/2 qts in at a time in a 9500 gallon pool.
Ohhh so it's actually use to clean the water too? I thought was for cleaning the concrete floor of pools and sidewalks etc. I thought chlorine was used for the water. I've never cleaned pools before obviously lol
 
Ohhh so it's actually use to clean the water too? I thought was for cleaning the concrete floor of pools and sidewalks etc. I thought chlorine was used for the water. I've never cleaned pools before obviously lol
muratic acid has tons of uses-- rust removal, concrete cleaning, etching various things, balancing pool water, etc etc etc.

but as mentioned above, it's no joke. treat is as you would any other acid, even at fairly low concentrations it can flume off a grip of the nasty so wear your PPE and work in a well ventilated space.
 
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