MuuMuu101's 68 Dart, A Learning Process...

[mopowers]

Great progress! The furthest most bolts on the upper dash pad are actually sheet metal screws. I believe they have a 5/16" head on them. You should be able to get to the DS one through the dash hole right above the headlight switch. Likewise for the PAs one through the glove box door hole. Good luck! Keep at it!

 

[MuuMuu101]

Great progress! The furthest most bolts on the upper dash pad are actually sheet metal screws. I believe they have a 5/16" head on them. You should be able to get to the DS one through the dash hole right above the headlight switch. Likewise for the PAs one through the glove box door hole. Good luck! Keep at it!

I got the 5 nuts on the top taken off. Are the sheet metal screws at the top of the dash pad? I found 2 bolts, one to the right of the glovebox and one to the left of the speedo and wasn't sure if those were the ones I needed to take out.

 

[mopowers]

I got the 5 nuts on the top taken off. Are the sheet metal screws at the top of the dash pad? I found 2 bolts, one to the right of the glovebox and one to the left of the speedo and wasn't sure if those were the ones I needed to take out.

The screws I was referring to are about 1-2" from each end of the pad. They have a hex head. Sounds like we're talking about the same ones. They're screws that simply screw into the sheet metal dash pad core. from behind. I just installed a new pad on my 68 Dart last weekend. The cuts on my hand are almost healed. Lol...

 

[MuuMuu101]

So, I got some work on the Dart today. We'll start with the bad...

Bad:
I bought a pair of LED headlights for a JK Jeep a member had used here. It required grinding/machining the heat sink to clearance the headlight bezel. Well, in my grinding, I accidentally damaged the headlight lens so now it's trash. Luckily, I got them on sale and they were about $65. So, I don't feel too bad about it.

Good:
I started looking at the Intellitronix gauge cluster and it doesn't seem like it's going to be a bad swap. I just need to make some mounting brackets and a dashboard cover. And on the plus side, it seems like I'll be able to connect the speedometer sensor straight into my T56. I also pulled the dash pad off. I'm not sure if I'm going to get it re-padded. I might have one other idea for it. Does anyone know a good way to remove the padding from the dash pad frame? On a last note. I'm almost done setting up my Christmas present, a 3D printer. It should be able to print parts approximately 10in x 10in x 12in in size.

 

[belmateo]

The dash padding and foam are bonded together and will not come apart cleanly. You can cover it with PVC or Leather, with some steam you should be able to avoid any wrinkles. Being a 68, you would have to do the two lower dash pads as well to match.

 

[MuuMuu101]

First test print. Only about an inch to an inch and a half tall. I did the standard resolution (0.008" steps). I can do a higher resolution (0.005" steps) so it smooths out.

 

[moparmat2000]

I dont understand how you could have bent the pad into a horseshoe?? You remove all the hardware it slides straight back to come right off. It's a shame you bent the pads metal frame all to ****. Theres a place in San Antonio Texas that redoes them. They would give you money for an unbent core since they redo the metal frame with new foam and padding. I have one coming my way redone for my sons car for $180 shipped.

 

[moparmat2000]

"If a WOman did not grow up with these cars when they were new, She might not have the same love and patience for them."

I agree that an old car is not for everyone and it takes a huge amount if dedication and skill to keep one going.

I daily drive a 68 dart and its my only transportation by choice. There have been many times I was on the side of the road watching newer cars wizz by but I stay loyal.

I am 32 so I didn't see these cars new but I would argue that I have more patience than a lot of pensioners who are bailing for a new fiat challenger because they just want to drive and not ever wrench..... so I disagree on that one.

If mr.muumuu got married, i think that is a good reason to bail. I stay single because I am not going to let some guy tell me what to do and make me sell my cars and stop doing what I love, but a normal person would put a marriage before cars and hobbies.

Just reading through this. A person that truly loved you would not make you sell your cars and stop doing what you loved. As a matter of fact the right person would be right there alongside you pulling engines and sanding body filler on a project car. Many of us guys dream to be that lucky to find a talented car gal like you Rani. Most of us dont ever find that. My wife doesnt really understand my affliction with the cars, but realizes it's my interest and keeps me happy, and at home, instead of drinking beer in titty bars.

 

[MuuMuu101]

I dont understand how you could have bent the pad into a horseshoe?? You remove all the hardware it slides straight back to come right off. It's a shame you bent the pads metal frame all to ****. Theres a place in San Antonio Texas that redoes them. They would give you money for an unbent core since they redo the metal frame with new foam and padding. I have one coming my way redone for my sons car for $180 shipped.

It's an optical illusion. Panorama view on my phone camera. I removed the 5 nuts and 2 screws and the pad came out with little to no effort. The frame isn't bent.

 

[MuuMuu101]

Just reading through this. A person that truly loved you would not make you sell your cars and stop doing what you loved. As a matter of fact the right person would be right there alongside you pulling engines and sanding body filler on a project car. Many of us guys dream to be that lucky to find a talented car gal like you Rani. Most of us dont ever find that. My wife doesnt really understand my affliction with the cars, but realizes it's my interest and keeps me happy, and at home, instead of drinking beer in titty bars.

My wife never pushed me to sell my car. It was all my choice at the time. My wife supported me with whatever I decided.

 

[moparmat2000]

My wife never pushed me to sell my car. It was all my choice at the time. My wife supported me with whatever I decided.

I was talking about Rani and her talking about staying single because of somebody possibly wanting her to sell her projects.

 

[MuuMuu101]

I was talking about Rani and her talking about staying single because of somebody possibly wanting her to sell her projects.

Gotchya. My misunderstanding.

 

[moparmat2000]

If I was single and a bit younger, I'd want to be right there with her rebuilding engines, and doing body n paint work on all this old stuff.

 

[MuuMuu101]

A little bit more progress today. I installed and got the wires partially set up for the temp sensor and oil pressure sensor. I also removed the speedometer cable. The kit either uses a speed sensor or a gps sensor, so I'm going to have to plug the hole where the mechanical speedo cable went. I have to replace with the GM speed sensor with the Intellitronix one. Unfortunately, the exhaust, trans crossmember, and trans tunnel are all in the way so, it's impossible to replace the speed sensor without dropping the trans. So, I ordered a plug and gps sensor and am going to go that route for now. If I ever drop the transmission, I'll rewire for a speed sensor.

I know nothing is all that interesting right now; however, I brought some parts home to model/modify in CAD. I need to fix and modify my inner door handles and make a custom dash bezel for my universal gauge. I can also make some small molds for composite parts (I still have some fiberglass cloth in my garage). Lastly, I brought my dash pad to my house. I may try removing the old foam and see where I can go from there.

 

[goldduster318]

I'm a little surprised here, does the kit allow pulses per mile programming? The transmission already has a VSS electronic speed sensor in it, on the passenger side that uses a Ford connector (Standard Motor Products S699, I believe for a 2004 Mustang with a 5-speed). Should be 17 pulses/revolution

Also your reverse lockout solenoid isn't hooked up? That's the connector right above the mechanical speedo take-off. I have mine powered by megasquirt when the vehicle is under 5 mph so it's a breeze to stick in reverse.

 

[famous bob]

Just reading through this. A person that truly loved you would not make you sell your cars and stop doing what you loved. As a matter of fact the right person would be right there alongside you pulling engines and sanding body filler on a project car. Many of us guys dream to be that lucky to find a talented car gal like you Rani. Most of us dont ever find that. My wife doesnt really understand my affliction with the cars, but realizes it's my interest and keeps me happy, and at home, instead of drinking beer in titty bars.

Not sure how Rainy got into this , but I wish my wife was like her in many ways , the wife doesn`t want me to sell my barracuda , I don't really want to either .
I have thot about and advertised it on race junk "just for curiosity" , and trades but always back out . Yes I did get about 7-8 inquiries on it .
Rainy sounds like the perfect woman to me , have even been told she is , ( his words) , ''DROP DEAD GORGEOUS "! -----------???

 

[MuuMuu101]

I'm a little surprised here, does the kit allow pulses per mile programming? The transmission already has a VSS electronic speed sensor in it, on the passenger side that uses a Ford connector (Standard Motor Products S699, I believe for a 2004 Mustang with a 5-speed). Should be 17 pulses/revolution
View attachment 1715450975

Also your reverse lockout solenoid isn't hooked up? That's the connector right above the mechanical speedo take-off. I have mine powered by megasquirt when the vehicle is under 5 mph so it's a breeze to stick in reverse.

The kit sort of uses a pulses per mile calibration. To calibrate it, you hit a button to start the calibration, drive a mile, and the system records the pulses when you tell it the mile is over. Or you can use a GPS sensor and don't have to deal with calibration.

See, I always was confused about where the speed sensor goes. Everywhere I looked online said it was on the driver side. So, I thought there may be 2 locations on the T56 Magnum, one for a mechanical assembly and one for an electronic version. I guess I should have looked at the passenger side. Here is the speed sensor connector the kit uses. I noticed it was a little different from the factory ones as this sensor requires a power, ground, and signal wire.

Intellitronix Speedometer Sending Units S9013

 

[goldduster318]

The kit sort of uses a pulses per mile calibration. To calibrate it, you hit a button to start the calibration, drive a mile, and the system records the pulses when you tell it the mile is over. Or you can use a GPS sensor and don't have to deal with calibration.

See, I always was confused about where the speed sensor goes. Everywhere I looked online said it was on the driver side. So, I thought there may be 2 locations on the T56 Magnum, one for a mechanical assembly and one for an electronic version. I guess I should have looked at the passenger side. Here is the speed sensor connector the kit uses. I noticed it was a little different from the factory ones as this sensor requires a power, ground, and signal wire.

Intellitronix Speedometer Sending Units S9013

Yeah that's a hall effect sensor, where the one in the transmission is a variable reluctance sensor, hence the two wires. A VR sensor basically makes an AC waveform and doesn't require external power. If the kit can handle VR sensors, just hook it up and calibrate and you're done. They are extremely reliable

 

[MuuMuu101]

Yeah that's a hall effect sensor, where the one in the transmission is a variable reluctance sensor, hence the two wires. A VR sensor basically makes an AC waveform and doesn't require external power. If the kit can handle VR sensors, just hook it up and calibrate and you're done. They are extremely reliable

So is there a spot on. The driver's side to use the hall effect sensor on the passenger side? Sorry, my car is 18 miles away to check.

 

[goldduster318]

So is there a spot on. The driver's side to use the hall effect sensor on the passenger side? Sorry, my car is 18 miles away to check.

No, there is a mechanical take-off on the driver's side, which is what you were using before. There is a VR sensor on the passenger side. To use a hall sensor, you have to use the mechanical piece with an adapter.

The thing directly above the mechanical take off you were using is the reverse lock-out solenoid. I bet you have to push pretty hard to select reverse since that should be powered when the vehicle is at standstill.

 

[MuuMuu101]

Made a little something for the Dart. My inner door handles were cracked, worn, and my arm cushion was falling apart. I took some measurement, worked some CAD, and printed this out. I need to test fit it on Friday to see if my measurements were correct. If it fits, I should be able to sand and paint it and it would be ready to go.

Side note, I also got a GPS speedometer sensor and plug for the transmission. So, I should be able to install those when I work on the Dart this weekend.

 

[MuuMuu101]

Got a couple hours on the Dart today. Mostly did some small things and I'm trying to work through the electrical for my new gauge cluster. I installed my new transmission plug for the speedo hole. Test fitted and modified my 3D printed door handles. I need to make some redesigns.

Electrical is taking a lot of time. I'm still trying to find each and every individual wire for the cluster. I've found about half of them, but I'm dealing with a rats nest. A lot of starting from one end and working my way over until I attempt to get to the wire I need. It's a little frustrating but I'm trying to keep calm. Any hints or tricks would be helpful. I got a Summit Racing GPS speedometer sensor and of course it doesn't have instructions as to what the wires go to. I know one is power and ground and another is the sensor, but I can't put my finger on the 4th wire.

As I work on the car, and knowing what I know, a big part of me just wants to start the car over from scratch. Just bring it back down to a bare shell and do a complete clean up and resto. I know it's best just to get it running and go from there. It would be so much easier if I could move my car to my garage.

 

[belmateo]

If you have the room in your garage, do it. CSAA gold membership will tow it for free, just tell the it runs but overheats and they wiil tow it for you. That fourth wire you mention could be aspeed sensor used for a convertible car to only allow the top to be open or closed when the car is not moving.

 

[MuuMuu101]

If you have the room in your garage, do it. CSAA gold membership will tow it for free, just tell the it runs but overheats and they wiil tow it for you. That fourth wire you mention could be aspeed sensor used for a convertible car to only allow the top to be open or closed when the car is not moving.

I might be able to do it. I have a 2 car garage and both my wife and her car are parked in there. We don't have a driveway so we'd have to park a car parallel to the garage in our alley.

That would make sense for the Summit sensor.

 

[MuuMuu101]

So, I really haven't had much time to think about or work on the Dart. I've been doing some extra time at work and preparing for the future. I redesigned and printed a new handle a couple of weeks ago. I was able to change its dimensions so that I could reduce the print time and increase the surface finish. It also feels much stronger and if I wanted to print it with a higher resolution it should be better. I did make it a little taller and added a cover to hide the springs on the door handle, and hopefully it clears. I also added a couple counterbores on the flat side; however, they didn't come out. That's why there are just 2 circles and me trying to remove supports.

Whenever I get to my mom's house, next, I'll try this handle on. Otherwise, I still need more dimensions for the new instrument panel I have.