My 1966 dart race car.

[dart19666]

This will be a continuous post on my dart. I have done many threads on other avenues to keeping this car going/racing. So now I will have an on going thread about my car for those who care. I will post my other links below about the engine and the change from a 727 to a 904 trans.

So the problem now with the 904 trans. I did the cook book recipe that is posted all over this forum on what you need for a 904. Well that works if you don't have 650+hp and a trans brake. Did not take long before I stripped all the teeth on the output shaft. Believe it or not I did not blow it apart on the launch it was the 1 - 2 shift when it let go. Needless to say the output shaft, the low first gear, and a whole host of things went wrong when the bronze gear ground down. Pulling it apart nothing was really broken just the teeth were worn down and the welded low first gear toast.

This brings me to where I am now. I sold the 727 "which I NEVER had a problem with EVER" to this 904 that's broken and needs parts. Well since I now have three kids I made my wife a promise that I will not race the supermoto, dirt bikes, or street bikes anymore but she can't say **** about my dart. We shook hands and the next week I sold every bike I own. Now I have some coin to drop on some good parts for the 904. One call to A&A trans pretty much took all the extra cash that I had. I popped for front pump, hardened input, hardened output, billet steel low first gear, 4.2 lever, semi ridged front band, billet servos, Needle bearing throughout the whole trans including the rear support, and since I was full throttle in first going to second when the teeth let go I bought their ultimate 30 element sprague. Wait there is more, got their case, and HD output housing. Maybe I missed something but at this point who cares and I will tell you how much it cost. Lets say the Indy 360-1 cnc ported heads used to be the most expensive thing on my car, ha ha ha.

I will be updating this post on future races and builds on this car.

Ask me anything you want about anything on the car. I have spent the money and made tons of mistakes. Maybe I can help you not make the same ones.

 

[dart19666]

Engine posts

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=285695


Trans posts

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=298412


How I got my 0.810 bars

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=303241


My race against a supposed 1000 Hp Supra.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=295623

 

[dart19666]

This is a blown big block Shivy 572. We will see what happens.

 

[A body]

Did you know that Pro Trans makes most of that stuff in house?

 

[A body]

older Griner T-brake?

 

[dart19666]

Did you know that Pro Trans makes most of that stuff in house?

I did not. Here is the problem is that I am so far into these guys that it is hard to start fresh with a new company. I will tell you this is that if I get this trans back and it vibrates I will go to Protrans.

 

[dart19666]

older Griner T-brake?

Its a brake from Coan that was on my 727. Works good and did not want to get a new one till this one breaks. Its a billet body and I have had zero problems from it. But yes its a old Grinder style.

 

[A body]

recognized the solenoid and the support plate where the servo area is. The old ones didn't have that would would literally balloon the spacer plate in that area. Sounds like you've got a "top shelf" 904 now. If I were rainbow chasing I'd probably look into it.... but to be honest I would be at least 5K if not a little more to make the change..... or one that would live anyways . curious.... did something "shake" when you changed your trans? Why do you think it's the trans and not the driveline?

 

[winstoninwisc]

PLEASE CALL TSI TRANSMISSIONS in ILL.They will quarentee there work for3 years from the time you pick it up and quarenteed bullet proof . punch uo TSI TRANSMISSIONS on the web and call them there right outside Joliet Ill. there 904s are more expesnsive than the 727 thow , we cant blow 1 up but we sure pretzild drive shafts and torn rear ends apart and rippedperches right off, but never phased a tranny built by them

 

[Rob Eppler]

Have been running the 999 for a long time! All A & A equipment as well. I have had small issues, but nothing big. I have the nice servo's and the new accumulator piston as well! At the Monster Mopar race last month the car had its best 60' ever...1.25 and consistant 1.27's The 999 is a good trade off! Best ET 1/8: 5.94 @ 113 Best 1/4: 9.54 @ 140. I think 9.40's may have been possible @ Monster Mopar, however all racing was limited to 1/8 mile due to track/wet conditions. [Trans brake/low gear set. All power is passed thru a Dana 60 with 4.56's

 

[A body]

Hard running car Rob. We'd have a great heads up match.


Jay

 

[dart19666]

recognized the solenoid and the support plate where the servo area is. The old ones didn't have that would would literally balloon the spacer plate in that area. Sounds like you've got a "top shelf" 904 now. If I were rainbow chasing I'd probably look into it.... but to be honest I would be at least 5K if not a little more to make the change..... or one that would live anyways . curious.... did something "shake" when you changed your trans? Why do you think it's the trans and not the driveline?

Here is how it went. I had what I thought was 904 trans but it had six bolts for the rear support so this turned out to be a 999 trans or a 1989 trans. This is where I got the low first gear from it also has a better sprague than a regular 904. So everything was right in the world till I shifted two second gear and stripped out the output gears. So when I called A&A trans to get a billet first gear I also asked about the HD output shaft. He said it is bullet proof so i bought it also. Now this is where things get weird. Now depending on who you ask you will get a different story. but the HD shaft will not work with my 999 trans and I did not find that out till I was putting it together. So then I call them and ask whats up why will this not work. Now I need a different Case because a 1989 case "with six support bolts" is different. So I get a different case a 1975 yippy it all fits but now I have a different problem. I have a ticking time bomb in the rear of the trans called a "Stock Sprague." So now I buy the 30 element one. I install it and put all the parts together, it all fits, the sun is shining again and I can move the car under its own power again. So I get in it and drive it around the block a few times to warm it up. Bring it back home check fluids and now it time for a burn out. I wet the street get in my happy seat, start in second feel a little vibration, shift to high gear feel major vibrations. I pull the car into garage and back on the stands it goes. First check driveshaft, pull it out and have it checked, it's good. Second check wheels, pull them off they check perfect. Third check rear end, pull it out, everything perfect. Hmmmmm maybe engine, pull off flex plate put on fly wheel, bolt on standard shift bell housing, hook up starter, with the push of s button I find out engine is good. So ONLY thing left is trans. So I called A&A pulled the trans apart sent them every part i bought from them and told them don't sent it back till its good. So to answer your question "Why do you think it's the trans and not the driveline?" because I checked it ha ha ha.

 

[A body]

that is weird.... I just cannot see anything internal to that trans that would cause enough inertia to create a vibration as bad as you've explained.... other than a broken converter (I'm assuming it was pretty major from how far you tore the thing down again). You'd almost have to have a shaft "jumproping".... and I just can't see that happening. Now..... how could a guy bench test that??? So you changed the case and the output gear train and now it vibes..... like I said..... strange....

 

[A body]

googled "transmission dyno san diego" and a couple shops popped up with that capability. Might be worth a shot.

 

[dart19666]

that is weird.... I just cannot see anything internal to that trans that would cause enough inertia to create a vibration as bad as you've explained.... other than a broken converter (I'm assuming it was pretty major from how far you tore the thing down again). You'd almost have to have a shaft "jumproping".... and I just can't see that happening. Now..... how could a guy bench test that??? So you changed the case and the output gear train and now it vibes..... like I said..... strange....

Only thing that I can think of is that the output shaft is not straight. I bought it assembled or stacked. Then undid the clip for the shell gear to slid in the case. Believe me I am also at my wits end. So it all went back so they can test their own parts to find out what it is. When I hear something I will post and let everyone know whats up. The parts should me there this next Monday 10/26/15.

Ps Converter was also checked. Continental Converters they are hands down the best.

 

[Rob Eppler]

I had a vibration also! I did not go to the extent you have! [great effort!] However, my problem was in the drive shaft. I used a dial indicator and checked the shaft just out of the transmission and again just prior to the companion flange. The run-out was substantial! So I took it back to the "place of birth" and had them check the shaft on their lathe, they also saw the run-out. Come to find out, I use the A & A slip yolk which has the removable caps. When I replace my transmission after a rebuild, I did not mark/index the shaft to the slip yolk [my fault] I had the Driveshaft shop install the assembly with the "least" amount of run-out and rebalance the shaft. The problem is gone! Like you, I could not get my car down the track! If I raced it [I made one full pass] I was sure the drive shaft would wind up in my lap! I have many laps on this driveshaft and two different 999 combinations, and no vibrations...now that I have painted [indexed everything for assembly stupidity!] Good luck with your Vibrations!

 

[moper]

It's a little beyond me, but I always thought to go full roller bearings you had to have the case in order to get the end play perfect. It's not a wide spec like when using thrust wasters...
I also think the reason you stripped the splines is while they are the same count, IIRC they are cut on a different angle 904 vs 999. The same thing can happen using the later and larger Cummins-spec components in a pre-OD 727.

 

[rrvolare]

I have seen this car at the track ... beautiful car !

 

[justinp61]

Ron your 65 is beautiful, 65s are my favorites of the pre 67s.

 

[A body]

chased a vibe at the top end in my old car. Changed and added a few things. Had the driveshaft checked twice at a shop..... ordered a new aluminum shaft from inland empire.... prob gone.

 

[dart19666]

chased a vibe at the top end in my old car. Changed and added a few things. Had the driveshaft checked twice at a shop..... ordered a new aluminum shaft from inland empire.... prob gone.

The drive shaft is from inland empire. I am going to take to a different shop than the one where I had it checked this last time. Third time is a charm.

 

[dart19666]

Third time was a charm on the drive shaft. It checked ok so I called Inland Empire to talk about what we could do and he had a great Idea. "Just get a 4" aluminum shaft," he said "and it will only cost 525 bucks." So at this point I just said **** it and bought the damm thing. Pick it up on Saturday.

Update on the trans, it should be here next Wednesday.

 

[dart19666]

Here are some pics from A&A trans.

 

[A body]

well don't beat it up too bad.... when you get ready to "jump ship" I might be interested in taking this one off your hands.

 

[Ohio Joe]

Love 66 Dart race cars, just don't see a lot of them. We have been racing this one for 5 years now, has gone thru a transformation from a back half car to a tube chassis car.