My 340

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mderoy340 said:
Is that pushrod 8" long? I've always ended up using a pushrod in the 7.2 - 7.3 range. I having never run the heads you have but I would definitely be looking into pushrod length and valve train geometry.
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I missed that 8 inch length. That’s pretty long. I think I’m in the 7.500 range and I use a B3 correction kit.

They might not be quite that long but it’s close. If IIRC I’ve milled pretty close to .100 off.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
I missed that 8 inch length. That’s pretty long. I think I’m in the 7.500 range and I use a B3 correction kit.

They might not be quite that long but it’s close. If IIRC I’ve milled pretty close to .100 off.
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I always go by effective length but some manufactures use overall length. The EDM SFT lifters I use are basically hollow hyd lifters with the EDM hole. Very light and hold up well on my street/strip setup.
 
I do believe there are some thing goofy with the geometry that I have to look into but those are Mancini push rods cut to length they are just under 7.5
 
Fwiw, my 340 block (418 stroker) with trick flow heads, a B3 kit and their prw 1.6 roller rockers used a 8" pushrod length with 1 turn on the adjuster for .040 preload
 
F21 said:
Yep put a couple tacks on each I side after pressing the tip in
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Did the instructions say to weld the tip in? I’ve made up several hundred pushrods and shortened several hundred more and never ever did I put a weld on the end.

That’s a perfect place to induce a failure.
F21 said:
Yep put a couple tacks on each I side after pressing the tip in
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No, the instructions did not say there was no instructions but when I called Mancini and talk to them, he said some guys put attack on them and some guys don’t
 
F21 said:
No, the instructions did not say there was no instructions but when I called Mancini and talk to them, he said some guys put attack on them and some guys don’t
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I would not tack weld end in. You are creating a failure point.

Let me ask you this. Where can the end go IF by some queer chance the end gets loose? It’s captured.

If I counted up all the 3 piece pushrods I’ve used since 1980 the number would be staggering.

And never has I seen an end get loose and fail. Not a one.

I would suggest not doing that any more.
 
Something goofy is going on because I snapped a tip off a push rod without having a tack, Weld on it same cylinder
 
Not sure I like how that broke. I have no experience with or know who makes the Mancini pushrods, but I would go with Manton or Smith Bro. I had the ball on a budget pushrod come off. The smith brothers that are in the car are very nice. I think I paid about $120 for 18 about 12 years ago.
 
What rocker system, the more pictures the better. Any witness marks on the rocker around the adjuster? Like the adjuster is so far up in the body of the rocker, at max lift the cup edge hits the rocker body.
 
furrystump said:
What rocker system, the more pictures the better. Any witness marks on the rocker around the adjuster? Like the adjuster is so far up in the body of the rocker, at max lift the cup edge hits the rocker body.
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I would also make sure the valve guides aren't to tight on that cylinder since you had another failure.
 
Valve guides seem OK rocker had no witness marks on it
I think geometry is off here is a pic of the rocker set up so if geometry is off, I think I would have to get new blocks made for the shafts let me look for more pics

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A ton of material has been removed if I could afford it I would’ve opted for a trick flows, and set things up a little different but worked with what I had the B1
 
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