my 360 build

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carkindaguy

carkindaguy

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i just finished my 360 build. i did not have any money left over for dyno time so i dont know what it makes as far as #s. i was wanting some help trying to estimate flywheel hp and torque. specs are as follows.from top to bottom.

holley ultra double pumper 750, stock out of box
eddy air gap intake, stock out of box
eddy heads stage 3 cnc ported by hughes engines, 2.08/1.60 valves, stock eddy valve springs.
flow 293.8/197.9 @ .600
milodon lifter valley baffle
hughes roller rockers,comp pushrods, lunati lifters.
lunati voodoo hyro flat 60404

  • Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 276/284
  • Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 234/242
  • Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .513/.533
  • LSA/ICL: 110/106
kb107 flat top pistons 10:5.1 compression, eagle i beam rods, stock crank, all balanced.
milodon windage tray, stock oil pan.
tti stepped headers,2.5 exhaust, x pipe, electric cutouts, flowmaster 40 series.
mechanical fuel pump, water pump and power steering, electric fan, 165 thermostat aluminum radiator.


also if you have any suggestions for any changes or anything. its in my 74 street/strip duster with a 727, dennys driveshaft, dana 60 373 gears.
 

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460 hp at about 6000

440 tq at 5000

That's my guess
 
First, very nice car btw, 2nd I think Cracked is right on the money, did you gasket match that airgap?? I did mine it had quite a bit of material to grind off and I have factory heads, i don't know about the Eddy's but i would think the ports are even larger.
 
412 Stroker said:
First, very nice car btw, 2nd I think Cracked is right on the money, did you gasket match that airgap?? I did mine it had quite a bit of material to grind off and I have factory heads, i don't know about the Eddy's but i would think the ports are even larger.
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Not too sure on the benefits of gasket matching especially if it requires alot of hogging out. The CSA change down the intake runner will cause the intake charge to slow way down. Also, it then has to negotiate the pushrod pinch. I'm doing a basic clean-up on my RPM, matching the intake to the heads on the roof, floor and divider wall (keeping it slightly undersize) but only doing light work on the pushrod side. Just my opinion of course.
 
i did a desktop dyno, i know they are not right on, but i did and i entered everything possible to duplicate the exact specs of my motor including all the flow #s. they had my cam, heads, compression, intake, absolutely everything. the desktop dyno said 482hp and 530lbs torque. now i thought wow those torque #s are pretty high for a stock stroke. i dont think it is that high but i think its more than 440. just my thought, it pulls real hard.
 
How do you like that cam ( Voodoo)? Lunati sugested the same cam for my 340 duster and I was wondering how it idles? Is it choppy, or rough ? Thanks
 
o ****. i i think this cam is the best is sounds real good. it is choppy almost like a popcorn kinda sound. i love it and im no expert but from what i read it was designed around a mopar engine. like comp cams are designed around chevys.
 
I would guess around 450hp, and probably low 12's in the 1/4 mile.

As far as suggestions.....I don't usually say this because most folks over cam their engines, but you could use a bigger cam with those heads. Those flow numbers are at .600 and the lift of your cam is not even in the ball park which leaves a LOT of power on the table that you can't access without a bigger cam. With the right cam (with those heads), and a matched converter, you could EASILY run low 11's (or faster after dialing in the combo)...so I would guess with a solid roller of around 255° duration and a little over .600 lift you would probably be around 520-540hp. JMHO.
 
flyfish said:
I would guess around 450hp, and probably low 12's in the 1/4 mile.

As far as suggestions.....I don't usually say this because most folks over cam their engines, but you could use a bigger cam with those heads. Those flow numbers are at .600 and the lift of your cam is not even in the ball park which leaves a LOT of power on the table that you can't access without a bigger cam. With the right cam (with those heads), and a matched converter, you could EASILY run low 11's (or faster after dialing in the combo)...so I would guess with a solid roller of around 255° duration and a little over .600 lift you would probably be around 520-540hp. JMHO.
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flyfish thanks for your opinion. my engine builder also said that i was under camed. i want to be able to drive the car around town and to the track not trailer it. i have a couple more questions. i would like to stick with a flat tapped solid cam for an easier swap.

1] can i have the cam swapped without pulling the motor again? i dont want to have to pull the motor.

2] what has to be done to to motor to switch an la360 to from a flat tapped to a roller? i thought there is some machine work that has to be done.

3] im not good with picking cams. obviously. will you make some suggestions for good mopar cams? solid roller if its an easy swap, if not solid flat tapped.

4] what would be a good converter for my application? the motors in a 74 duster about 3300 pounds, im going to switch to fiberglass bumpers and hood to drop weight. 727, dennys drive shaft, dana 60 with 373 gears. 28inch bfgs, im going to get some mt sticky's.
 
The cam you have will have a choppy idle, but not crazy. Put more duration in and it will become less manageable to drive. The engine in it's current form is more than capable of about a 11.50 time slip if the car hooks.

You'll be grinding the pushrod holes in ede heads to run a roller so either you do it on the engine or remove them and do it. There are lifters available that drop in. New pushrods would be a requirement too. Depending on the roller, new springs as well.

If you buy a converter, buy a good one. This is where most everyone fails when trying to build a good running car. Spend 6K on an engine and put a $200 shelf converter behind it. Sometimes they work well, other times, actually most of the time they are marginal at best. Call a good converter company, A1, ATI, T/A, Dymanic and tell them what you have. I'd get something like a 9.5" that is tight when driving but flashes hard to about 4K+ range.
 
i would enjoy it just like it sits :D nice setup

keep it tuned, all fluids clean you will have a nice running car for a long time.

nice job bro. you may be out of budget, but now it's time to enjoy the ride!
 
wow 11.50 would be awesome. if that is possible i think i will leave the motor like it is. i don't want to do all that s**t again. i did buy a $200 converter, i regret it now. im going to get fiber glass bumpers and lift off hood. that will lighten things up a bit. and i need a good converter. o, and im going to put some skinny's up front and street slicks in back. i made some homemade caltracs that are completely adjustable. i have read that /6 spring can work with caltracs, is this true? they are a lot cheaper. my dana doesnt have a spot to mount a pinion snubber. thanks for your help
 

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carkindaguy said:
flyfish thanks for your opinion. my engine builder also said that i was under camed. i want to be able to drive the car around town and to the track not trailer it. i have a couple more questions. i would like to stick with a flat tapped solid cam for an easier swap.

1] can i have the cam swapped without pulling the motor again? i dont want to have to pull the motor.

2] what has to be done to to motor to switch an la360 to from a flat tapped to a roller? i thought there is some machine work that has to be done.

3] im not good with picking cams. obviously. will you make some suggestions for good mopar cams? solid roller if its an easy swap, if not solid flat tapped.

4] what would be a good converter for my application? the motors in a 74 duster about 3300 pounds, im going to switch to fiberglass bumpers and hood to drop weight. 727, dennys drive shaft, dana 60 with 373 gears. 28inch bfgs, im going to get some mt sticky's.
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If you just finished your motor, don't change anything. Take it out and enjoy it. Your setup has room to grow for later...but to answer your questions:
1. Yes you can swap a cam with the motor in the car.
2. No machine work IF you buy the right lifters.
3. Ask 5 people, get 5 different answers. If really depends on your goals for the car, but I don't care for the mopar performance cams (they work ok, but there are better cams out there).
4. Call a reputable converter company and have one built for your application. I have a custom 8" PTC converter in my car FWIW.
 
ive decided not to change anything on the motor. it makes enough power. im going to start with fiberglass bumpers and fiberglass hood. do the race weight hoods last on a babied street car?
 
My race weight Hemi hood has been working fine for the last couple of years. I got it second hand, just painted it black. It is not for "pretty" cars...if you want it real nice looking you may have to get a thicker glass hood. My hood is a "10 footer" on a good day....but then again my car is a 50 footer on its best day, so it works:D.
 
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