My 360 build

[Dartfreak75]

Just two little FYI’s for you.

One is that is a TON of lube on the cylinder walls and rings. It makes the engine dirty on start up and inhibits ring break in. I put a LITTLE on the skirts, wipe the cylinder walls with paper towels and ATF or Marvels Mystery Oil until the proper towels come out clean, and then wipe them dry.

Then you just install the pistons with what’s on the skirts. You’ll find out that the cylinder walls will get plenty of lube from the skirts, and the ring pack won’t be loaded with lube or oil on start up.

I stopped lubing the hell out of rings like that in the 1980’s.

The other is just slipping the number one piston without rings and degree the cam, then put the rings on and install the rest of the pistons.

With 8 pistons and rings dragging it makes it difficult to degree the cam accurately. Can you do it? Sure. I’m not sure how many times I’ve degreed a cam in the car. I hate it, but I can do it.


Its just easier to degree the cam without all that drag on it.

Love the build. BTW, what assembly lube are you using?

That's great info on the cam degree I wish I would have thought of that before I put all the pistons in lol. Oh well now I know for next time. I read in my book to lube the rings really good so that's what I did i do plan on going back and wiping them all down before I put the heads on. The lube I'm using on the pistons and rod bearing is the permatex red engine assembly lube. On the cam bearings and main bearings I used that green sealed power assembly lube. It is super thick. Its thicker than the permatex I figured it would be better for the bearing surfaces.

 

[Dartfreak75]

I got the rod caps torqued and the timing chain on other than degreeing the cam the short block is done.

 

[Dartfreak75]

Working on the heads now my cam instructions says to remove the inner spring are the dampners considered an inner spring? Because comp lists the 901 as a single spring should remove the dampers for break in?

 

[yellow rose]

Working on the heads now my cam instructions says to remove the inner spring are the dampners considered an inner spring? Because comp lists the 901 as a single spring should remove the dampers for break in?

Not a flat wire damper. Leave that in. I don’t ever pull the inners out. I’m talking about coil spring inners. But that’s just me.

 

[Dartfreak75]

Not a flat wire damper. Leave that in. I don’t ever pull the inners out. I’m talking about coil spring inners. But that’s just me.

Thanks that seemed like a lot of work to take them out then pull all the springs to out them back in after break in

 

[Dartfreak75]

Heads going together nicely! Special thanks to @'63GT these retainers are working beautifully!

 

['63GT]

 

[Dartfreak75]

Got the first head together. And did a light test and found a problem. I have one exhaust valve that is showing a very small amount of light thru. It was hard to take a picture of it but i managed to get one of it. Should i take it back out lap it? What are my options?

 

[Dartfreak75]

Here are some pics

 

['63GT]

Got the first head together. And did a light test and found a problem. I have one exhaust valve that is showing a very small amount of light thru. It was hard to take a picture of it but i managed to get one of it. Should i take it back out lap it? What are my options?

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Well, it's either runout in the seat, or a bent valve. I have had to reface new valves before..
The valve is the best case scenario. It's a lot easier to take a single valve to get refaced than to touch-up a seat. You could try sticking the valve in a drill to see if there's any wobble in it.
If it's not too bad, lapping MAY do the trick.

 

[Dartfreak75]

Well, it's either runout in the seat, or a bent valve. I have had to reface new valves before..
The valve is the best case scenario. It's a lot easier to take a single valve to get refaced than to touch-up a seat. You could try sticking the valve in a drill to see if there's any wobble in it.
If it's not too bad, lapping MAY do the trick.

They are new valves and new valve job. I may take it out and try a different valve. I would hope a new one wouldnt be bent.

 

[Wyrmrider]

do not lap
determine valve or seat
you can check runout
or swap a different valve
if it's the seat the whole head has to come apart if grinding
using a cutter not so much
I touch all new valves, od hone the stems and check runout
chk the guide clerance seats etc

 

[Dartfreak75]

Ok so I took the valve out and tried the remaining 4 it's on the seat. It's not the valve. I can turn it a certain way and it gets smaller that really sucks. I will do what I can with it.

 

[Dartfreak75]

2nd head coming together nicely

 

[Dartfreak75]

2nd head is done. I checked all the valves with a light and they are all good. So I just gotta fix the one and I'll be ready to put it the heads back on.

 

[Dartfreak75]

Welp its its official! Im a dumbass! Lol it just dawned on me... i put all my valves together and forgot to put the valve seals in! Geez I guess I gotta start over lol

 

[Dartfreak75]

That looks much better.

 

[RustyRatRod]

2nd head coming together nicely

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Dude, are you lapping these valves in?

 

[yellow rose]

That looks much better.

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LOL. You ain’t the first to forget the seals, and you won’t be the last.

 

[Mopar Sam]

LOL. You ain’t the first to forget the seals, and you won’t be the last.

Ain't it the truth....

 

[George Jets]

Dude, are you lapping these valves in?

^^^^^
RustyRatRod has a good video on how to carefully lap in your new valves without overdoing it. Carefully keeping the lapping compound out of the heads too.

When you are done lapping you will see a nice line on the valve and also on the seat where they have been mated together.

Nice job on your build, looks good.

 

[Wyrmrider]

just use machinest dye to check valves
valve grind compound leaves a line- right
but the valve gets bigger with heat and the line is no longer in the right place
you are not building a model A or Chevy stoveblolt

 

[Dartfreak75]

Quick update. So I did another alcohol test on the heads and found 3 more leaky valves. So decided to do the right thing (probably not) lol and just lap them all I got one side tore back down for the 3rd time and got the first two (or last 2 the way I numberd them) lapped. Man I'm telling you now I know why guys use a drill this is miserable the ole carpal tunnel is really kicking on my hands are numb my wrist and elbows are hurting even my toes are numb. Haha but I checked the first two ans no more leaks so I'm gonna keep pushing thru

 

[Dartfreak75]

Been a while since I've posted an update. I got some work done today, got the block and heads painted, finished up degreeing the cam finally. Got the timing chain buttoned up thanks to @Dartsun! And I got my oil filter adapter drilled out like recommend! Now all I have left is get the oil pan on, heads and intake on and get this thing in the dart!

 

[George Jets]

Been a while since I've posted an update. I got some work done today, got the block and heads painted, finished up degreeing the cam finally. Got the timing chain buttoned up thanks to @Dartsun! And I got my oil filter adapter drilled out like recommend! Now all I have left is get the oil pan on, heads and intake on and get this thing in the dart!

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Looks like Candy, Nice Job !

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