My 6.1 retrofit thread

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The issue would be getting it to the docks........and finding someone wanting a classic with a new motor ;)

We're still a "maverick" group in the Mopar scene I suspect.. :)
 
OK - Update on the carb issue and modman intake.

Not really a picture post so stop here if this is important to you :)

Although I got the car to mph around 112 with the Edelbrock - no matter wahat modifications I made I couldnt cure the lean bog at launch at the track.

It was either going to be a plenum volume issue or signal problem - but fitting a ProSystems 830cfm double pumper soon told me it was a plenum volume problem.....lean bog dissappeared completely.

UNFO - fuel dispertion at lower rpm saw my half track mph go backwards!

So I rang Patrick at Pro Systems and asked the question on Soeed Talk abiut using a Turtle or plenum divider.

Concensus was that this would not be a complete fix....and that the Modman intake is first and foremost...a dual carb intake.

So a heads up to those who go this path....dont expect great results from a single carb application on these intakes.
 
Well..here we go - time to change the valve springs to something that will keep the valve away from the piston at 7000 rpm...


Pic 1 - Coils removed and one plug removed in each cylinder to let me rotate the motor - Then set it up on TDC. The empty plug holes are also useful to slip a piece of fine rod down, to check when each piston reaches TDC as you rotate the crank


Fit Valve spring compressor, screw down, valve spring, remove locks.

Unscrew compressor, swap out the factory Valve/cage, pull factory seat/seal, and swap in the new shims, locater, seal and spring in that order

Replace the retainer and screw down the valve spring - re-fit the locks.

Wind the valve spring compressor back out and check to make sure locks have seated inside retainer.

Pic 2 - rocker covers off, intake rocker gear is on the high side, exhaust on the low side......


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Pic 3 shows the factory valve spring and cage balancing on the head -
Just in front of the removed spring and cage, you can see the combination seat and seal - this has to go as well....

IMG_0521_zps0dddf5cb.jpg


Pic 4 - This is aftermarket replacement seal, locater and shim. Thanks to Craig Thibeau from Thitek heads for the deal on the springs and locater/shim/seal kit.




IMG_0522_zpsd513a128.jpg
 
Pic 5 - shows the new seal in place with the shim and locater - no need for shonky make do cages with these springs....

Pic 6 - #1 intake valve spring all done (at top of pic) ...15 to go!!






Then do the exhaust - in this case less the shims

Rotate the crank 45 degrees to find TDC for the next cylinder as per firing order....1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2 and repeat process.
 
Buschi340 said:
do you think those shims on the intake are necessary? I didn't use them since made this swap. Stock engine btw....
Click to expand...

Yes..definitely - on the INTAKE side - its the only way I could achieve the correct installed height with the PSI spring

Here's what you need to know -

1st..the psi spring has a different big end ID....This means you use a custom locater and an aftermarket seal on BOTH the intake and exhaust side.

Get rid of the cages and the factory combo seat/seal.

2nd- The requirement for shims will depend on what is needed to achieve the recommended installed height of the PSI spring.....and that is dictated by the depth of the factory valve seat and cast height of the spring pad. This can vary because we are dealing with factory tolerances.

Because you are dealing with factory tolerances...this can vary from head to head and even from valve to valve....although the G3 heads have a reasonable reputation for consistency.

Remember also...the installed height of the factory springs is different to the PSI - and the intake is different to the exhaust.

3rd - After removing the factory spring seats, I was able to get away with just using the .060th locater and aftermarket seal on the exhaust side for an exact 1.80 install height.

BUT - I needed two shims AND a locater to achieve the same on the Intake side

Did u measure your installed height?

Did you swap the factory combo seat/seal out'?
 
I have a milodon pan, and a stock dip stick, and I did my swap back in 2007 before anybody else did,and without any problems.
Rat Patrol said:
PARTS:
Sump - MIL31000,
Pick up - MIL18331
Dipstick and Tube - MIL 22064
Oil Pan bolts - MIL-85025
Oil Pick up support stud - 6506333-AA
Oil Stud Nut - # 6502756
Bearing Cap Bolt - 06506272AA


Its been well documented that you need to use the Milodon centre hump pan and pick up to perform this conversion, but whats not so well known is that you also have to use the Milodon dipstick and the Milodon pan bolts as well.

The factory pan bolts are too long, and the Milodon and other aftermarket pans has no provision for the factory dipstick.....but fortunately Ma Mopar left the dipstick boss right there in the pan rail for us to use!


So -

- Remove the factory pan
- Remove the gasket/splash tray
- Remove the factory pick up
- Remove the small bung in the aussie drivers side pan rail with a small punch. This hole is used to locate the Milodon dipstick


IMG_0885.jpg



First - the #1 main stud and # 3 main cap bolt must be interchanged as the Milodon pick up requires the stud to be at #3.
Unfo - these are 15mm Torque To Yield bolts..and therefore must not be re-used or they'll snap on you.


(You''ll also need a very deep 15mm barrell socket to get over the stud.)


So purchase replacements and simply swap them around. The torque spec is 28nm + 90 degrees for the stud and the main cap bolt.
The pick up bolt and nut are also 28nm (21ftlbs)......BUT NO 90 Degrees!
20121205_173324.jpg



Next - fit the replacement Milodon gasket/splash tray. This is easier to use than modifying a factory one.


The Milodon pan has a different bolt pattern and doesn't use the four larger pan bolts - so using their gasket makes things tidier and easier.

NOTE: I modifed the factory one for this mock up - but Ill be using the Milodon piece when it arrives.


NOTE - There are two extra small holes in the corner of the Milodon gasket to match the pan - the corresponding holes are in the block, but may well be filled with RTV as the factory uses RTV to seal four corners of the gasket.

See pics below:

Extra holes
20121205_173349.jpg





Gasket /splash tray fitted - note the unused larger bolt holes in the factory gasket at top right of the pic - the Milodon gasket doesn't have these.

20121205_173936.jpg





Three - we fit the Milodon pick up - AFTER the gasket. Be extra careful with the bolt and the nut - dropping them will result in a major search and rescue exercise within the engine LOL!!:eek:ops:.
20121205_174130.jpg




Last! - we fit the pan! - the bolt tightening sequence is as for any other pan - start in the middle and work outwards.



20121205_174256.jpg



I'll deal with the oil filter adapter modification and the dipstick in a later post!



PART ALERT
- You MUST replace the main cap #3 bolt and #1 stud - try to re-use the existing ones and they'll most likely snap.

- You MUST use Milodon pan bolts - the factory ones are too long
- You MUST use the MIlodon pick up

- Its BETTER to use the Milodon splashtray/gasket than to modify the factory piece

- You MUST re-apply RTV in the four locations as per the factory gasket - This seals the small detentes between te timing cover gasket and the pan rail - much like a LA engine.
Click to expand...
 

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You're right I'm wrong.
 

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Im not sure why you've taken the hump over this thread - I never said buying an ally radiator was the only option...I just said that I swapped mine out because of the outlet/ inlet positions....like YOU DID.

I also never said you HAVE to use TTI mounts, likewise my choice of headers...although Id like to see you use factory headers......feel free to tell us how ;)

You're being far too literal ..and getting far too hung up on what ate only suggestions. You're not OCD or something are you?

I only ask because your last thread ended up with you talking to yourself........

Bottom line is..you DID change mounts, radiator, headers, oil pan, hoses, etc.

...and I did say at the start of the article that there was more than one way to skin a cat........or perhaps you think I shouldnt have tried to help at all?
 
Oh and Garyfish 340... How did you fit the stock dipstick into the Milodon pan......removed the block plug Im guessing...which kind of proves my point...the milodon pan requires you use the block tube hole.......why you would screw around converting the factory piece to work in this decade is beyond me.

So Id appreciate it if youd keep your nit-picking out of my thread.

Mods.. No better way of ruining a thread than this guys BS. :banghead:
 
Some people DO LIKE to ruin threads around here. Probably the last two pages of my build thread go on and on by other people about the 5.7 Hemi, blah, blah, blah. Nowhere near anything about what's going on in my build. I feel for you. (sorry to have added into the BS)
 
Sometimes members need to relax a bit and look at the broader picture....when I use the word 'MUST' ...I'm trying to convey that things need to be changed...what they are swapped out for is an individuals choice.

But I reall shouldnt have to justify my input.
 
Thread trampling is prevalent here, you will have something going with YOUR build and someone will jump with "check out my steering column" and pics to boot. Always have to point out to some that this is what I did, not "this is the only way......"
 
I wont mind if you dont.

Just dont expect me to re-write my whole blog to keep your perception straight.

But feel free to start your own thread or even a blog - on how YOU did YOUR conversion.....and I'll promise not to nit pick....

:happy1:
 
This is a great thread. Especially if you're building a rhd Aussie mopar. Hell, I'm the one who stickied it when I was a mod.

It's a shame that so many good threads get turned into this endless dribble on this site. That's a major reason I have turned to Facebook groups and don't post much here. Sure, I've been guilty of making my disagreements known in this forum, especially on my threads, but I try to encourage and be positive.

This site used to be fun. It's still a valuable and irreplaceable source of info... If you have the time to sort and sift through the constant bickering to find the needle of truth and helpful info amongst the haystack of bullshit.
 
- I had two carbs on the shelf I can tune,
-I paid for my intake by selling the EFI, plus some.
- I knew nothing about EFI,
- I didnt want to upgrade the fuel system,
- My car is half a race car so economy isnt important.
- I think the factory EFI intake looks hideous in an old engine bay - sorry...but thats my opinion.
- The crate Gen 3 + a cam cost me $5500 USD - That provided better $ per HP than engineering and building a roller cam LA stroker to make the same HP. (Its now at
(475hp)

Im well aware that the EFI provudes a little more HP under the curve...but Im not chasing world records and I like the old school look.

With the Eddy dual quad and the OCP single dual plane...the days of woeful carb intakes for these motors is gone.

Theres 7 good reasons why I did it.
 
Just a heads up, probably old news for anybody who has done a 3g swap but, SRT8 manifolds from a Grand Cherokee are a bolt on fix without spending a king's ransom. That is what I am using on my 72 duster.
 
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