I love it, budget build, brings back some fond memories for me. have fun.
My '75 Scamp 383 Build
- Thread starter roadrunnerh
- Start date
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roadrunnerh
Well-Known Member
Here are a couple pics of the original 383 2bbl cam that was in the engine. Any info to learn from these pics?
To re-use your old cam, you would need to put each lifter back on it's original lobe. This where I would upgrade the cam with new lifters. Reuse rockers, shafts and pushrods if decent. Usually we replace all the valves and springs. On a budget- you can reuse the old valves if there is enough meat on them for grinding. Reusing old springs is a little chancy. Resurface the heads along with v/job.
roadrunnerh
Well-Known Member
No plans to reuse the cam, but do plan on using the cam bearings. Bearing surfaces look good.
I would recommend replacing all bearings in the motor. I have seen many that replace the bottom end bearings and end up with low oil pressure because they didn't replace the cam bearings.
roadrunnerh
Well-Known Member
After a little cleaning, here are some shots of the crankshaft...
After a few quick measurements (more to come) I hope to polish the journals and she's ready to rock N Roll.
After a few quick measurements (more to come) I hope to polish the journals and she's ready to rock N Roll.
roadrunnerh
Well-Known Member
Hi folks, any and all feedback is welcomed and appreciated.
If the rest of the cam lobes look like those pictured, the cam is worn but good. That's a good sign and probably means the engine was in decent shape.
Regarding my machining recommendations, I know you've seen me say a lot that millions of engines from Chrysler ran many miles and years with tall and crooked decks, just like they left the factory, and it's true. Certainly, that's a corner that you can cut. But, If you were EVER going to do it, NOW'S THE TIME. Know what I mean Vern? You're only looking at 150-200 more dollars. I know, there I go throwin your money around again. I'm sorry. I don't mean to. I'm just trying to help you get the best product, even for a budget engine.
I stand firm on my recommendations regarding replacing the rod bolts and resizing the rods though. That's a corner I simply would not cut, even if I had to save up (and I do) the money for it. I have my 198 rods and new pistons and ARP rod bolts all in a milk crate right now ready to go, but lack the money to do it. Saving for Kitty's surgery. I mean........how bad would it suck for an old rod bolt to break and cost you the whole engine? Even if it's a budget build, now it becomes twice as expensive as it WAS.
The main journals seem in spec, how bout the rod journals?
Regarding my machining recommendations, I know you've seen me say a lot that millions of engines from Chrysler ran many miles and years with tall and crooked decks, just like they left the factory, and it's true. Certainly, that's a corner that you can cut. But, If you were EVER going to do it, NOW'S THE TIME. Know what I mean Vern? You're only looking at 150-200 more dollars. I know, there I go throwin your money around again. I'm sorry. I don't mean to. I'm just trying to help you get the best product, even for a budget engine.
I stand firm on my recommendations regarding replacing the rod bolts and resizing the rods though. That's a corner I simply would not cut, even if I had to save up (and I do) the money for it. I have my 198 rods and new pistons and ARP rod bolts all in a milk crate right now ready to go, but lack the money to do it. Saving for Kitty's surgery. I mean........how bad would it suck for an old rod bolt to break and cost you the whole engine? Even if it's a budget build, now it becomes twice as expensive as it WAS.
The main journals seem in spec, how bout the rod journals?
Crank journal specs are Mains , 2.6245-2.6255 Rods, 2.374-2.375
Just a heads-up if you haven't found already. '68 was the last year of the single bolt cam. They went to a three bolt cam (rest of cam is the same). Either one will work for you, but cam selection is greater with the three-bolt. Mine is a resto motor but went hydraulic roller cam which means I now use a three bolt cam sprocket.
roadrunnerh
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys! Rob, I'm holding off possible machine shop work until after Carlisle. Maybe I'll find pistons? The link to the pistons on ebay (10-1) TRW slugs you shared and I considered are for 1967 and back? What's the difference? Just because the heads are different? closed chamber?
roadrunnerh
Well-Known Member
Murray, thanks for that cam info, I did not know that.
My apologies, I didn't notice that. I would "GUESS" the compression height is shorter, due to the smaller chamber, but I don't know. Gimmie a minute to research it.
Murray, Murray, Murray. Are you are saying that all big blocks from the factory went to a three bolt cam after 1968? C'mon!
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Sorry about that sir. The 2315 has the correct pin height for you. These are more expensive, but still about 100 bucks cheaper than Summit and family.
383 CHRYSLER FORGED PISTONS L2315F STANDARD BORE SET OF 8 | eBay
383 CHRYSLER FORGED PISTONS L2315F STANDARD BORE SET OF 8 | eBay
I'll be honest with you though, "I" would rather see you spend money on the decking and "all that" rather than new pistons as long as the original pistons are good. Those old factory cast pistons are pretty strong.
Three bolt cam-sorry, some of my comments may not be entirely correct. Was just trying to help, alerting him to some things in the progress of his build, things to think about. Feel free to educate me anytime.
We're all trying to help a good member out, Murray. Lord knows I caint remember everything with all this stuff. Maybe all of us together will get him goin good.
As far as I know, in Chrysler big blocks, only the 426 Hemi's and the 1970-'71 6-BBL engines came with the 3-bolt cams. The '70-'71 6-BBL engines used the same cam sprocket (2780572) as the 426 Hemi.
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roadrunnerh
Well-Known Member
I know one thing for sure, I am learning a lot!
Well regardless, Of anybody's recommendations, do what's comfortable for YOU and we'll help you make the best of it.
roadrunnerh
Well-Known Member
Well, it's time for a little update on my progress....
OR Starrett and Some Friends to the Rescue!
My close cousin and buddy, Harold is a Mechanical Engineer, and he stopped by with his buddy Kurt who's a Diesel mechanic of 25 years. They brought some expensive tools...
I've taken what seems like 102 different measurements. I get some consistency, but not enough - It's VERY hard to trust my measurements fellas! Especially using a Harbor Freight digital caliper micrometer. Even with the Starrett tools they brought, I trust their measurements much more than mine, and they took many. I thanked both of them profusely!
Here's what we (they) came up with on my crankshaft:
Main Journals
#1 2.6250
#2 2.6250
#3 2.6255
#4 2.6245
#5 2.6250
Rod Journals
#1 2.3745 and 2.3740
#2 2.3745 and 2.3750
#3 2.3745 and 2.3745
#4 2.3745 and 2.3745
Kurt was impressed with the tolerances.
He's also looking for a nice B body! Thanks for reading, and I'll post some clean piston **** pics tomorrow if you like!
OR Starrett and Some Friends to the Rescue!
My close cousin and buddy, Harold is a Mechanical Engineer, and he stopped by with his buddy Kurt who's a Diesel mechanic of 25 years. They brought some expensive tools...
I've taken what seems like 102 different measurements. I get some consistency, but not enough - It's VERY hard to trust my measurements fellas! Especially using a Harbor Freight digital caliper micrometer. Even with the Starrett tools they brought, I trust their measurements much more than mine, and they took many. I thanked both of them profusely!
Here's what we (they) came up with on my crankshaft:
Main Journals
#1 2.6250
#2 2.6250
#3 2.6255
#4 2.6245
#5 2.6250
Rod Journals
#1 2.3745 and 2.3740
#2 2.3745 and 2.3750
#3 2.3745 and 2.3745
#4 2.3745 and 2.3745
Kurt was impressed with the tolerances.
He's also looking for a nice B body! Thanks for reading, and I'll post some clean piston **** pics tomorrow if you like!
roadrunnerh
Well-Known Member
Well it's been a while since I've posted an update. I pulled all the block plugs, picked up a 3/8 drive 5/16 square head socket for the oil galley plugs, and gave the block her first bath! After a spray down with Gunk, I used LOTS of Dawn soap and connected my hose to the hot water line. Moroso Engine Brush Kit is a POS! It went back to Summit. My rifle cleaning brushes are MUCH better.
The crankshaft needs just a couple journals gone over again with 2500 grit wet/dry for a polish - pretty close to done.
Cleaned up water pump housing and had to go to war with one of the heater hose fittings. Wow, what a *****!
I boogered it a bit, and I need your opinions on whether this will seal with a 3/4 NPT plug.
Here she is with a cleanup/paint job and the new reproduction neck I picked up at Carlisle.
and a couple pics of the threaded hole in question:
As you can see, I ended up cutting deeper than I should have when I got that ***** out one chunk at a time! I can screw in a 3/4" NPT plug, but will it seal with tape?
The crankshaft needs just a couple journals gone over again with 2500 grit wet/dry for a polish - pretty close to done.
Cleaned up water pump housing and had to go to war with one of the heater hose fittings. Wow, what a *****!
I boogered it a bit, and I need your opinions on whether this will seal with a 3/4 NPT plug.
Here she is with a cleanup/paint job and the new reproduction neck I picked up at Carlisle.
and a couple pics of the threaded hole in question:
As you can see, I ended up cutting deeper than I should have when I got that ***** out one chunk at a time! I can screw in a 3/4" NPT plug, but will it seal with tape?
mygasser
Well-Known Member
I'd fill the threads in the housing and the fitting with epoxy resin then screw it in, that'll seal it.
If you think you may ever need to remove it again then give the threads on the fitting a light smear of grease instead before you fit it. For the cost of a fitting I'd seal it tight and buy another if I had to down the line.
Neil.
If you think you may ever need to remove it again then give the threads on the fitting a light smear of grease instead before you fit it. For the cost of a fitting I'd seal it tight and buy another if I had to down the line.
Neil.
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